I’m not really familiar with what you’re using there, but we’ll assume it’s good based on your findings. I don’t really feel like it’s reasonable to expect the plant to come back overnight. Especially after you flushed it. And you’re targeting a ph of 6?
I’m going to attach support ticket for you to fill out. If nothing there jumps out we’ll see if we can’t get a few others to take a look.
COPY/PASTE the below list into your forum post.
Answer these simple questions the best you can.
If you do not know, or do not use something; Just say so; Or post
NA (non applicable)
PH of Water, Solution, runoff: Was 5.58, after flush ~6, watering was 6.3-7, nutrient solution was around 4.5 (did not know that prior to this and have been adjusting it to ~6.5 since)
PPM/TDS or EC: Never measured, fox farm line-up, erratic feeding schedule (was waiting for any sign of issues before doing it full on because I didn’t know how hot the miracle gro soil was).
Indoors
HGL 600, was VIPARSPECTRA 450
Temps; Low to mid 60s during lights off, high 70s/low 80s during lights on
Humidity; Was sitting in the 20s now in the 50% (or >80% according to the analog…)
Ventilation system; Yes, iPower 6 Inch 442 CFM w/carbon filter, fan controller currently set at medium (which is about 75% power as “low” is actually 50%)
I’m pretty sure this is environmental because it’s extremely prominent in this other younger plant that was healthy until recently. In fact, every plant is now showing signs of it, some worse than others.
@dbrn32 That’s what I’ve been reading, but the digital only shows 79 and the analog says 75. It feels very comfortable in there, like a nice summer day. I’ve spent quite a bit of time in 80F/60%RH before and it was very uncomfortable. So it’s definitely lower than that. I’m really unsure what is happening.
@MattyBear Not that I’ve seen. It’s winter here and I didn’t start growing until mid-late November. The tent is in a room with basically nothing else in it. A lot would have to happen for bugs to get in there and not be visible. Unless there’s something deep in the soil so I can’t see it I don’t think it’s bugs.
That’s a pretty good suggestion, they can definitely come in from eggs on soil. Try giving them a good look with magnifying glass if you can. Especially under leaves.
What is height and power level of your light right now?
@dbrn32 That seems conflicting, dial the light down and make it closer? Doesn’t that defeat the purpose of dimming it? Also, I don’t have a way to dim it as of yet, I could raise it a few more inches, almost out of vertical height though.
Edit: Also, wasn’t the point of a bigger light to get more light? I don’t understand why people would get a big light only to dim it… But uh, maybe we can simplify things? What’s the highest/optimal PAR the plants can get without being stressed like this?
cut a few 2 inch strips of fly paper and lay them on top of the soil around the stem, if there are unwanted critters in the soil or plant then there should be evidence stuck to the flypaper after 24hrs, then you can act accordingly and Zap the fookers
Buy a good LOUPPE…its will last you forever and is a very necessary tool if you intend to grow pot.
I don’t know what is recommended, @dbrn32 likely does. That said, I set my light height using a PAR meter. During veg, my canopy level is about 600 - 700 uMole/m^2/sec. The level is about 900 at the very tops of the plants. During flower I bump things up just a bit to compensate for the shorter days, canopy ~800 and top colas ~950.
Edit: One cola is quite close to my COB’s (12") and the PAR reading at the very top is over 1300, no wilting or leaf curling. (30 days since flipping to 12/12)
By most estimates, these light levels are on the high side. This is much less than half of the intensity of direct sunlight.
I maintain a lights-on temperature and rH of 75 - 80 F at 50% during veg and 35% during flower.
This may be out of wack, but my plants are healthy and large with excellent yields (8 - 12 oz/plant, indoor, FFOF soil). Since I got my environment under control(temp, rH, pH, EC, light levels), I have not any plant health issues. I hope this helps a bit @rampage.
Edit: I don’t know if this will be helpful or not…I ALWAYS water to runoff (after plants are in their final pots, I water sparingly until final pots) then remove and discard the runoff after checking PH and EC. I water again when the plants are quite dry but before wilting has started.
It’s not conflicting at all. Your plants weren’t respirating properly and seemingly had roots flooded because of it. These problems don’t fix themselves in an hour. I suggested you lower light intensity to give them a chance to work themselves through it. I didn’t tell you that you absolutely had to raise your smaller plants up, just said that you could if you needed to.
For vegging plants recommended ppfd average is about 400 umols per second per square meter. You have a long lights on time, so the amount of light intensity needed is lower to maximize plant energy processing.
People get a big light to cover a big space. Not necessarily to run right on top of their plants.
Your light didn’t come with a dimmer? Take a pic of driver and help you get what you need.
@dbrn32@merlin44 I moved the smaller plants away from the light and raised the light. Getting around 1000 now at the top of the large plant and the young plants about 350-400.
You’re still a little more intensity than you need. Who did you buy kit from? It appears to be a knock off, and that driver not resistance dimming capable. I would contact them to see if they have a low cost dimming solution.
@merlin44 Oh, as for watering them. I put them directly into the final container after the roots start showing out of the rapid rooter. So I’ve been only watering a ring around them until the leaves reach the outside edge of the container.
