Wondering if the tips of leaves could be burn or a deficiency or some sort, runtz auto, 6th week from germination, fox farms ocean soil, 50% pearlite, just starting with fox farms bloom nutrients at 1/4 strength, also just started cal mag at 1/4 strength, any advice will be greatly appreciated, thanx
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Looks like it to me.
She does look healthy though, nice work.
Whats your current light cycle?
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Likely a little nute burn, but just the right amount.
What was ph and tds of last feed/ water and last runoff?
50% perlite is kinda high amount of perlite, why did you use so much?
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24 hours a day, a pretty cheap 600 watt philzon led, it only pulls 113 from wall, seem good enough for 2 plants
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Looking good bro. Autos are finicky when it comes to nutes. I learned the hard way my first auto grow. Next soil mix, do a 20/20 split of vermiculite/perlite.
Used 50% because I had read it somewhere, this is only my 2 nd grow, next time will certainly use less, thanks for the advice
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@Vallen73 its all good bro. I use a 20/20 perlite vermiculite mix to better aerate the soil i use. It helps to retain a little more moisture and keeps the soil from packing. I use Coast Of Maine Stonington Blend and in 5 gallon fabric pots it packs like concrete over time.
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Try a 3:1 soil to perlite ratio (3 scoops soil, 1 scoop perlite. This will help you retain a lil more moisture in the soil and give you great drainage at the same time. If you were using an auto pot or a wicking system then 50/50 perlite to soil.
If it only pulls 113 watts from the wall then it isnt a 600 watt light. If it was it would pull 600 watts fro. The wall. To match light to growspace divide total watts by sq feet of growspace. You will want at a MIN 33-40 true watts per square foot. Not enough lite will give you lanky plants and loose flowers. Can you link the specs for your light?
Do you have this info?
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Here is what I have on light, waiting on a pH tester, been using tap water sitting for at least 48 hours, truthfully didn’t know anything about pH testing, so now I know, thanks for the feedback
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Good veg light but not enough for flower. Run both veg and bloom switches on at full power and order another light that actually pulls 600 watts or get a 600 watt HPS for flower.
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Lightly burned tips is a good indication that you are pushing the plant hard. We call them “painted nails.” It’s due to an excess of nitrogen. Nothing to worry about. It’s a good thing if it is managed properly and you don’t let the browned tips get beyond the tips of the leaves.
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For ph/tds understanding.
Agree with green thumbs. This lite is not gonna cut it. Tbh your gonna wanna spend 150 or more for a decent light that will cover your needs. Its not that this light wont grow weed, its that the weed it will grow will not meet your expectations. Infact you should adjust your expectations now. You can expect smaller and loose buds then what you might have had in the past from black market or dispensaries.
The light you have chosen is an obselete model. The diodes are not great, they lack alot of spectrum and capabitity by comparison to what is now considered budget lighting. Dont get me started on what would be considered GUCCI light.
What does this mean? Start saving for a new light, and dont buy one without checking in with the pros here. Depending on where you live you should consider donating blood plasma to pay for a light. If you have never donated before first timers can make like 800 bucks their first month so you could have a super nice light in 30 days or so. For a reasonable price go Mars hydro (FC or SP series) or spiderfarmer, greenbeams is another good but fair priced light manufacturer. For the BEST lights and an not so reasonable price tag try Chilled LED or HLG. Remember you want 33-40+ true watts per sq foot of growspace. Only get a light that has samsung lm301 B or H diodes and a meanwell driver. Those two things should be first when considering a light.
This is a ppfd map for your light hung at 12 inches from canopy
This is a ppfd map for the modern “budget light” (this is without samsung diodes even, just slightly newer tech then what you purchased.)
The bottom map is for a light only 50 watts more then your light and modern diodes. Even if your light was double its max output it still wouldnt hold a candle to modern diodes. There is other things too, your light produces alot of heat, so much it needs fans built into it. The light I am comparing yours too (a ts1000 from mars hydro) has no fans. My 300 watt light (fc3000 from same company) doesnt have a need for fans either. So you can see the difference is drastic. I wish people would stop selling blurple style lights on amazon. If you were growing tulips in your tent that light would work great!
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Thanks a million
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Anytime and on any subject!
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What he said, happy ladies have happy nails, just ask my wife.
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Vipar Spectra V1200
At 25 inches the output id 45KLUX and 555 watts.
Meter measured with retarded Android Photon App.
12 inches would cook my flowers.
I have a V600 (300watts) in a 2x3x5 and it grows one plant, reasonably well.
Not like the HLG350R and VS-V1200 in the 4x4x6.5.
HLG 350R does 50%more output or 50% less electricity, than the V1200.
You are in the sweet spot. Try not to push the plant any harder.
She looks very healthy and happy 
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I fell into this trap big time.
Climbing out, one grow cycle at a time.
Lots of Equipment available for sale, just not worth postage.
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Only thing to consider with this course of action is that if there’s already stretch occurring from insufficient light, all those reds on the bloom switch in veg are going to stretch the plant even more.
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Without em you couldn’t grow nothing but bonzi. With such low wattage you certainly don’t want to reduce it in half by cutting the red bloom switch off. Both on, wide open.