@Vallen73 if it’s in the cards, I would definitely try and up the power in your tent — there’s a lot of affordable options out there, but beware and don’t waste your money (like i did at first).
Something I don’t think that’s been mentioned yet is that one should ignore the “HID equivalent” that light manufacturers advertise. Frankly, any light on Amazon that says “puts out as much light as an X watt light” is probably mediocre quality at best.
Here’s what I personally stay away from regarding purchasing lights:
Lights with a a separate veg / flower switch (usually synonymous with mediocre, cheap lights)
Blurples (plants need more than just red and blues for optimal growth)
Boxy lights with build in fans (overheating issues)
Anything that advertises HID equivalent instead of actual watts (because that means they’re just trying to pull a fast one on ignorant buyers)
no dimmer switch (unless it’s a T5 fluorescent)
no removable driver (I’m able to bring my tent temp down by up to 10 degrees doing this)
The reason i have so many restrictions is because lights ain’t cheap! You absolutely get what you pay for, and from first hand experience, the extra 100-200 bucks compared to a budget light is well worth it when you consider how much more you can yield and the average cost of a ounce of bud.
If you scroll down to the “specifications” and make sure the “actual watts” is your grow area multiplied by 35-40W per square foot (this is about the strength you’ll need in flower). Anything less will dramatically lower your yield and quality. Shortening the hang distance will not make up for a shortage of light.
I’m sorry, but thats not true at all. You can grow under 6500K T5 lights from start to finish and still fill a 4x4 wall to wall in roughly the same time, without a drop in bud quality. Bonsai-sized cannabis is more often than not from over-watering and insufficient wattage.
Case and point, I’ve seen plenty of growers consistently pull 2-pound yields from 4x4s without a single full spectrum LED, only fluorescent tubes (feel free to check out WTTGT on YT to see). While it’s absolutely possible and not wrong to grow under full spectrum from start to finish, it’s not sound advice to blanket statement tell a new grower “turn on all the switches” because in every situation that’s not always the right answer.
@Vallen73 One of the advantages of starting under blue and transitioning to full spec during flower is that it promotes much tighter internodal spacing during the developmental stages of the plant (aka when we’re trying to achieve lots of tops and uniform growing height). More nodes in the same space = more branches = more tops come flower. Under a full spectrum light, even rock solid PPFD at all times will still produce less nodes, on average, than one under mostly cool, blue light. Once you’re in late veg/flower, all those nodes you’ve been busy creating will blow the heck up under full specs.
I admit, there’s a million ways to achieve success in this hobby, but I like to present alternate options because blanket statements can lead to confusion in a hobby that is already fraught with bro-scientists putting out bad info.
@CatDadPower Anything under under 150 watts is insufficient, did you read where he’s only pulling 113 watts before rambling? A closet lined with 400 watts of fluorescents was not in play here.
Both switches on, wide open till he can get a better light is the best advice I can give as 113 watts is not enough for flower, to suggest that it is is living in an alternate reality that I choose not to dwell in.
And I believe your statement was the blanket one. Your going on and on about different lights, if one stays on point here a 100 to 113 watt led light is what we are discussing as that is what the op has, not T5s or any of the others. To discuss others is just a waste of time and distracting. If our goal is to help others here, then misleading them into thinking 100 watts is enough light is not heading down that road.
The op has a good light as I stated for veg, turning it wide open as it’s only 100 watts is great advice as turning the bloom switch off only gives him 50 watts. The actual wattage to grow cannibis to it’s maximum potential has been researched by many and that’s not a blanket statement. It’s called science.
I really don’t understand the objective of your post as it’s distracting, misleading and really a waste of time for us all as your not discussing his actual light but others you saw in a dream or something.
And I have dwelled in your quicksand long enough now I’m free. Op your fine, plant looks great you have time to try and find a stronger light for flowering, sorry for the confusion created by my gro bro. Good luck and Happy growing.
Really? Because I seem to recall an entire post discussing best practice to buy lights. It helps to read for comprehension before typing.
Second, I didn’t realize you were the post moderator, making sure people stay on topic. I was offering advice and information to help either OP or a passerby reading this, which is extremely common in this forum. You are the one who started attacking my intelligence and making insulting remarks in response to a polite disagreement.
Do us all a favor and change your poopy diaper – your bad attitude is stinking up this post as you selfishly make it about defending your honor or whatever has your panties in a bunch. The fragile egos in this hobby never cease to amaze me.
Now your off in lala land with nothing but more distraction yet again. Good luck with it as I got better things to do than trying to decipher the words and distractions coming out of your head.
Id take 150w of lm301 diodes over 150w of t5 flourescent any day. Not even comparable. But for seedlings and early veg, flourescent lighting still has a place.
