After many many rounds through the years with two spotted spider mites I finally found something that works. It’s called potassium salts of fatty acids. I use the one made by general Hydroponics called " Exile". Stuff just works on mites and doesn’t harm the plant.
You can toss the Capt jacks, it doesn’t phase them. Insecticidal soap only seems to work because the soap suffocates them.
Spray the Exile every 4 days and u must make direct contact with the mite for this product to work.
Seems growing multiple plants in a net always makes it worse as there are spots you won’t get with the spray. So one of the keys to slowing the spread is to keep plants separated. Reduce the temps to the lower 70s slows them down.
You only win battles with the spider mite, never the war and he always returns in the spring. He ranks right up there with the cockroach as the hardest thing to kill on this planet.
I once considered burning a place down to kill them. They kept me awake at night and I constantly thought they were crawling on me.
I get the heeby jeebies just thinking about them. Good luck my friend, as your gonna need it.
Small plants I would take outside into a tank or drum of some size and completely dunk the plant for two minutes under the water with a couple drops of dish soap for 3 minutes.
Then spray the bottom of each leaf with your insecticidal soap every 4 days like a clock.
Vacuum the floors, cracks, crevices and where stem enters medium. Install something like a stick that’s a few inches taller than and attached to your plant and stick a cotton ball on top of it. Start spraying low to high.
Mist your plants at night when lights are off then flip a flashlight on to pinpoint the main spots of webbing and infestation.
Once you knock them back order the predatory mites in overwhelming numbers.
My mites are the result of bringing in a few clones from a bud. Didn’t know they had issues until they reached mom size, and I already had new clones and so yeeted the moms.
I knew the new clones were likely compromised which was true and so I’ve been waging war on the clone tent. I’m rotating between jacks and mammoth about every three days.
The good thing is the clones are currently small and manageable and reasonably easy to treat and get to every little bit of them with treatment.
I feel that If I can re-up the IPM treatment every three days or so I can break the cycle and be done with these shits. If the clones can’t take it and they die then so be it.
At the moment I’m doing a lot of laundry and taking a lot of showers. I have to decontaminate as I have another tent a few weeks into flower that is still mite free. (I scope a few random leaves every day).
I’ve used lady bugs got rid of spider mites completely after i tried out everything else. Learn to never bring outsie plants into grow room without a inspection with magnifying glass
i didnt see what pest it was i just seen the spots on the leafs. I went to the my local grow store and they didnt have capt jacks so i went with mammoth canncontrol because i had good luck with the mammoth PH product. After using it i didnt see a change so i went to walmart and bought capt jacks. No issues since then.
That’s not spider mites damage they make is different from that for what i have seen my friend happy growing captain jack is going to help you out
I agree with @Reed71. That’s not spider mites in the last pic. Can you take a pic of the entire plant? The original first pics were of spider mites. So you may have multiple insects.
Pro tip #237 Always, Always Id the your pest, Before spraying gobs of on them.
Get a magnifier and go through the leaves until you find the new critter, take a pic of the pest. Then Id it. Only then can one choose the appropriate solution.
Predatory mites if one has a sealed grow room is really the best solution in the end. You will eventually get to week 7 of flower and find the sprays eventually damage the trichomes.
The mites are formidable opponents as they seem to know you will eventually stop spraying late in flower and they then pounce and feast.
The things will take the blueberry taste and smell out of a blueberry plant the last three weeks before harvest when I stopped spraying.
The leaves eventually give a photo toxic response. Many of these sprays have much lower PH as they contain ingredients like citric acid.
Is this bug damaged, nutrient deficiency or sun spot?
Doesnt look like mites anyway. Could be something else or the onset of a calcium deficiency. I would pull some leaves and get them under a jewelers loop either way.
Yea its not spider mites by the damage @Waldy178 are you in pots or ground my friend happy growing
In pots… but i loop them look more like sun spot due to the overnight rain and sunny morning… thanks