@ShureGreen Here is the ph calibration and cleaning kit I think it was $18 from HTG supply. Enough there for at least a couple calibrations. And good information and instructions on maintaining meter. It doesn’t say so on the box, but it comes with two pouches of storage solution also.
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Yep we use a Polaris Ranger and small trailer can go any where we like in our woods.
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Been using wood heat since I was 14 just can not justify the price of Propane as steady heat source, would use Natural gas but not avalible where we are, plus the 3/8 of mile driveway off the road would hurt I think.
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I put in an outside wood furnace about 18 years ago, and it is actually a wood fired hot water boiler. This thing uses a lot of wood especially if I don’t keep the air dampened down. But is the only wood heat that I have used that doesn’t overheat the house at times. Plus all the ashes and wood chips stay outdoors.
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Ive heard thats a good furnace to have. I thought one of the advantages was that it didn’t take a whole lot of wood. I guess i was told wrong there.
@Ickey
We have a wood furnace it is under garage floor in a room hatch in garage floor back up open the hatch and dump it in, wood furnace is 10 feet from where the Wood is stacked, FIL was a pretty smart fella when he built this place
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@PhatPat, As stated mine is an older one, and is very simple basically just a little blower forcing air under some wood grates. Sometime after I bought mine, someone in the government decided they didn’t like wood fires for heat. They started regulating these furnaces to make them more efficient. When I put mine in the boiler was $1400, and the whole set up controls, pipe, and flue was about $2000. Nowadays just the boiler starts out at $5,000. But hey they use less wood. Never mind the fact that it will take a lifetime to pay for itself. Kinda reminds me of the electric car push now.
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Sounds like it! I have seen those type of furnaces, and they are petty efficient.
I have a lot of piping, relays, thermostats, and zone valves that interface the basement heat, heat pump, and hot water heater to the outside furnace. When I am gone, someone will be in for a real challenge figuring this stuff out.
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Happy frog or coca coir is great soil. I’ve had good success with them. I’m now hydro and I love it
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Yeah, my meter doesn’t have a calibration mode per se. Just once it reaches the desired number you press the CAL and it’s done. I never did get the new trsts done yesterday, due to this gawd awful tooth ache. But just woke up and am not in pain, so today will figure it out. Thanks.
Well, I used the Sta-Green last time and had great results. Never the first issue with anything. Then this time it’s been one thing after the other. Thankfully I only have the 2 Grands to buy Christmas for and so am done buying and have a decent payout coming vus my eBay sales. So I’ll get something different either today or tomorrow when that hits my bank. I will have to order online so will be a few days of trying to keep them as healthy as is possible.
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Well I might just be a redneck too. I can do that, for sure. And with a home made splitter made by an old Carbide retiree at that. Lol!
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I was looking at coco online yesterday. Am unsure of what exactly to get. Seems like there are some differences in forms and am not sure if it’s to be mixed with standard soil or used by itself.
I do business with htc also. I will look into it for sure. Thanks.
Thanks everyone. I’ma be dealing with this over the next 2 days, provided this tooth doesn’t flare up and get me down again. As far as wood burning stoves, that’s what we had. Only held about 3 logs. Burned slow but heated the whole house. Overheated it most of the time. He and I are no longer together and I have my wonderful natural gas again. I LOOOVE gas everything. No work and it’s cheap. It’s for me. Y’all have a great week.
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Some soil companies will use a bit of coco, a substitute for peat moss. For soil conditioning, water retention.
Then theres growing in coco very differe t
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Coco is best used by itself. It should have some added perlite to keep is loose.
It comes in dry compressed blocks that you rehydrate. Adding a dose of calmag to the water and letting it hydrate for 24 hours or more will “Buffer” the coir. Coco coir like to pull calcium out of the water so by buffering it this way you can limit that in your grow. I have grown with and without buffering and dont see much difference, but its so easy to do I go ahead and add the calmag to the water when I hydrate the block.
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Other than watering every day I find it no different than soil. In fact I think its much easier with less problems.
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You can order Canna coco from Walmart for about $35 with free shipping. Canna comes with a handy plastic bag to hydrate the coco in, and this really helps, as it is a little messy when hydrating. I mix this coco with large size perlite from HTG supply. I wouldn’t mess around with perlite from Lowe’s as it is small and full of powder.
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Ok. So what I saw online, the 11lb brick runs between $12-20. How many milk crate sized pots will that 11lbs brick fill once hydrated? About?
Yes, I noticed a difference between the Lowe’s perlite and the few bags I’ve gotten from my local Feed store. Where I live options are extremely limited and when you do find something you like when you go back for more it’s sold out, or stolen out, and the store has no record so thing don’t get restocked. Here Lowe’s is the best bet if you want to stick with specific brands and such as you can be sure what you use will normally be available. So that’s where I go. I like home depot better but there’s only 1 here while Lowes are everywhere and ace has taken over 90% of the local hardware and feed stores. You get what you get and do your best to make it work I suppose.