Worth noting, more people die from 120 VAC electrocution than all other voltages combined. This is due to two reasons, first - everyone is potentially exposed to 120 VAC and second - most people think that 120 VAC is mostly harmless/safe and don’t exercise proper care when working around it.
By the way, DC is usually more damaging to tissue (at the same voltage) than AC.
Absolutely, good points to add. I ain’t trying to tangle with either haha.
@dbrn32 So if you had 4 x QB324s with 2 x HLG 240s hanging over your plants in a 4x4 would you be happy?
Beyond exhaust and a small circulation fan would you be worried about heat?
It may not save this grow, but do you think this light will reduce my stretching issues and produce better buds for future grows?
What is the boiling temperature of vibranium?
Just kidding, but I’m sure it feels like 20 questions.
I don’t mind, they’re the right questions to ask. No need for 60 hours either, that may hurt more thsn help. Shoot for 24-36 should be plenty. That would be more than ideal setup, one i would personally consider myself. I may space boards a little differently than Max, but I’d have to go double check exactly what he did to say so.
You should have absolutely no stretch issues with that setup either. In fact a lot of the qb growers will actually dim them early to try getting plants to stretch a little haha. The temps will be what they are. If you have reasonable intake temps and proper airflow through your space shouldn’t be too big of an issue. If and when you run into high temps during a summer heat wave or something, you’ll also have the dimmer you can lean on.
Maybe Barney got some autoflower genetics mixed in with them. In hydro my autos took 10-11wks in DWC before they really starting to flower even with 12/12 from seed and 4xQB304 lighting. I’d keep tying that lady down to the net until she finally decides to flower.
OK this sounds like it could be interesting.
I’m going to order the QB324s from HLG’s site, and 2 HLG-240-C2100A drivers from digikey today. Going with the A’s because I don’t mind using a little screw driver to change the dimmer. I’ll round up the angles, cables, wagos, hanger eyes, and wire management between now and delivery.
Any words of advice before I set off on this journey?
I’m not going to give up on it. But I will swap this light in when I get it built.
Outside of your flower time @WickedAle, how was your stretch with those QBs?
Also, I would drop completely drop molasses from DWC. The sugar spawns all sort of nasty bacteria (slime).
It’s not DWC, it’s just a 5 gallon smart pot.
I maxed out my tent. See:
https://ilgmforum.com/t/autos-12-12-from-seed/25404
Ahh…my mistake. Sorry. Others using soilless/soil have not experienced that long growth phase that I experienced in DWC.
Actually I had read most of that thread when I was looking for a light mover LOL. I saw hogmasters recommendation to you about the Light Rail 4.0 and that is the one I picked up.
I’m just surprised it took so long for those NLA to flower. I have some of those seeds, now I’m moving them down the list.
When this plan moves forward, I’m going to take my old light and start a veg tent.
I wouldn’t move the NLA down if you are in soilless. Other have had a great experience with NLA, but it is a lower yielding strain. It is supposedly a really nice smoking bud where many other strains are derived.
The waterproof barrel connectors are nice for making driver to power cord connections. Tgey even have a 3-way that could connect both drivers to a single power cord if you wish. Meanwell makes a big one that would likely fit cable that size a little better check digikey. I believe part number is cj04-1 for 14/16 cable. Amason sells some and the 3way, but they are designed for smaller wire a little more difficult t9 get together.
Buy 18awg solid wire rated for 300v. And at least 16awg power cord, 14awg if you plan on running both from same cord. Also some small wire ties and a pack of the peel and stick wire tie mounts are super handy for wire management.
If you need any help finding stuff lemme know, i can get you links.
Ok, the boards and the drivers are ordered.
I’m about to order one of these "T"s although I didn’t see one specific for the 14/16 gauge. The one pictured is from Ebay. I wasn’t sure which links were frowned upon here. I may just go to the local electric supply store for that. I will be going with 14awg to run both drivers.
I found 1"x1"x1/8 aluminum angle in 10’ lengths nearby. That will be this weekend.
I’ll pick up wire and connectors
At that point I’ll just need to wait for shipping!
Steady as she goes! Thank you, everyone for everything!
I guess I’m cheap. Love my solder gun and electrical tape.
Awesome! Hopefully shipping is quick
Well good news and better news, I think.
The good news is I found the problem. I feel like an ass because I should have caught it…the timer had a second program turning the light back on in the late hours. I found it after I set the plants to an extended darkness reset. The long story is I remember setting the second timer outlet for an idea I never used…turns out I didn’t set the second outlet, I set the first one. I would watch the lights go out, then an hour 45 mins later they would turn back on. I know “What”, I know “Why” and it looks like the only damage is ‘lost time’ (and hopefully no hermaphrodites)
And now I shall take lemons and my self given award and make lemonade…
The better news is that I already plunked down for the QB parts and the parts are already trickling in. If all goes well, I plan to have the light built and up by Thursday.
The extra sweet lemonade is that out of height frustration I performed some serious bending and the results are looking unreal.
The extra, EXTRA sweet lemonade is now I can activate a veg tent with the old light…
Who doesn’t like lemonade?!
Hey there @dbrn32 I hope all is going well. Parts are still arriving I got the drivers and the boards should be here Thursday, they got pushed back a day.
I wanted to pick your brain on dimensions while I wait. The tent is a 4x4, but I wanted to keep the light under 30"x30" so I can use it in a 3’x3’ tent down the road. I could copy Max’s build as that looks pretty efficient right down to the wiring placement.
Also a rookie question: On my LLT-T20 I’m looking at Red, Black, and Silver connectors, is that Positive, Negative, and Ground respectively? Or does this not matter as long as they are the same from Driver to Wall?
