I still like mason jars, provided that the buds are dried to the correct moisture level. Here is an easy way to burb your jars after they are filled. I use a little air pump, and just fish the air tubes to the bottom of the jars. Turn the pump on for a minute or so, and remove the tube, and replace the lid. Done!
Yah im not close either mine are in week five of flower
@Newt @Aussie_autos, OK, I should have taken a closer look before I spoke. But both of your plants are definitely looking good!
This is the reason I love the grove bags. No need for this step.
@BobbyDigital, Yes, that was my thinking also. But not being able to pack the bags tightly together during the curing time maybe a drawback though. I may need to consider a larger lock box with small ventilation holes drilled in the top and bottom. As always there are advantages and disadvantages with everything.
They have every size you can think of from 1lb bags to 1/4oz bags . Just need 25% headroom. They are super cheap.
Maybe I am being overly cautious here, and may not need to separate the bags all that much. Since I am very careful about drying the buds correctly before bagging them up. It seems that having them close to 58-62rh would cut down on the bag’s need to breathe.
This is appears to be true with jars as well. If the the buds go in with the correct moisture level, then you do not need the humidity packs.
There’s no humidity packs needed with the grove bags. If they go in at the correct humidity level, you can throw them in the back of the cabinet and forget about them. I have bags that I harvested 6 months ago that I haven’t even opened yet. It’s always as fresh as I bagged them but the terpines are insane.
That what I am starting to think. Allow the bags to be able to breathe for the first two or three weeks, and then pack them away with a little head room after that. After all I usually go into the safe about every three to four days anyway.
I love grove bags there amazing the terpenes go off the hook and the freshness of the flower and the taste is amazing
Get yourself a moisture reader for wood, that can be set on a soft wood setting, use that to test the drying buds, when the buds read 11% moisture they’re ready to go straight in the grove bags, no hygrometers needed I don’t think
I got this one, which if I remember correctly @Newt recommended me it?
I bought one of those moisture meters when I started using Grove Bags. But I don’t like it very much, too hard to use and on the the buds being tested. I prefer the old school small bud stem snap test. The meter works as claimed but it is just much easier the way that I have always done it. The meter is petty cool for lumber and firewood though.
All you have to do is stick the two pins in the buds and wait til they read 11% brother, I’ve never even tried it yet as I haven’t got that far but I can already tell it’s going to be more of a “me” way of things, as I’m useless with the stem snapping theory 
it’s just a time and money saver for me, less hygrometers the better 
I hate them
That is indeed the one I use.
@Se7en @Newt, Here is the one I have, I think it was recommended by someone on this forum. Maybe I am doing something wrong. When I push the prongs into the base of a bud the meter body crushes the bud before it makes contact with the stem. If you could get a meter with longer prongs I think it would work better.
With the snap test, you just bend a pea size bud sideways. If the stem bends it is not ready, if it snaps but does not break off clean it is ready, and if it breaks off clean it getting too dry.
After 45 years in the HVAC field I do not trust any meter, unless I can double check it in some way. So even if I could use the moisture meter, I would be double checking it with the snap test.
When hanging a whole plant to dry I end up with some buds a little on the dry side and some a little on the damp side. But after trimming and bagging up it averages out to what I want. The trick is to get a right average of dry vs damp when drying. Cutting the branches off the main stem and hanging them to dry will allow it to dry more evenly. But I really don’t have the room to hang the branches while keeping them in the dark for the drying process.
You are NOT trying to get to the stem. You just want to measure the bud.
Check the cap to the meter, mine has calibration contacts on it to test calibration.
@Newt, This meter will not show any reading until it senses the prongs start to penetrate wood. So it is very hit or miss until the prongs hit the stem.
@Audiofreak, I be damn, there is a small circuit board in the cap. When I put the prongs through the holes, it reads 18.6 percent in the wood mode, and 17.4 in the building mode. Do you know how to calibrate the meter? I can not find any manuals that came with it. Something seems to be interfering with my memory these days.
Just gently compress the bud to get the reading.