Hi, looking for an answer about Pineapple Daddy Autoflower Seeds. In the description it shows Yield Potential 61.8 gr / sq. ft.
My concern is yield. I can grow a good plant but I don’t want to spend 8-10 wks to grow only 3 oz. Please chime in and also mention in your opinion, the best yield/bang for the buck?
I looked at online cannabis calculators and that doesn’t make sense to me. It shows INDOOR and no mention of outdoor. I have lights so that is not an issue. I am mainly looking for the higher THC levels in Auto’s for the coming winter and soon intend to make an order. I prefer a good sativa 1st, hybrid 2nd, but I like it all, so indica is okay too. I currently am smoking SLH and GDP auto I grew last winter. I have some GDP autos outside now and one photo APF.
Grow some photos indoor. I grew what we think to be a Skywalker OG.
. The 2 best indoor we have grown were both photos. You can even flower them early and have a slight input on your yield. Thats our upcoming plan. Been doing a lot of autos.
You have to figure in the fact a plant will take up at least 4 sq ft, more if it’s allowed to spread out. Sooooo 61.8 gr multiplied by 4 ft comes up to 247.2 grs, or 8.8 oz. Now for reality, you hardly ever get what they advertise as yield. That was done in lab conditions with great lights and the best feed program fine tuned. Average growers, and that’s not a jab, will not get that much. Ten plants from the same seeds will produce different amounts, even clones will not be dead consistent from one to the other. A 4x4 tent is 16sq ft for reference.
For my tiny 2’x3’ tent (6 sq. ft) that’s roughly 13 oz. I’d take that indoors from an auto. But no argument from me against @SausageMahoney 's advice to grow photos. Happy growing whichever way you decide.
I agree with @SausageMahoney and @Growdoc use the seed description as a idea not a guarantee. Environment, good lighting and grow medium are a hugh factor. Especially good lighting. Thats my 2 cents.
If yield is your concern stick with photoperiod plants so you’re able to control how long they veg for. Then you don’t have to worry about stunting plant early and having it go into flower when still small. If you run into issues with photo plants you simply veg a little longer and train plant to fill desired canopy size, then place on flowering schedule. Growing autos 3 zips is about a good baseline to expect. You can certainly get more, but it’s hard to plan on more for a plant that’s supposed to start flowering after ~4 weeks.
Additionally, 61 grams per square foot is pretty lofty. I typically run grows for quick turnaround instead of maximum yield, and they’re usually like 40-50 grams per ft². But this is tent packed with good equipment and moderate to high yielding genetics already. I don’t know that I could get 1/4 pound or more out of my grows regularly even if I went all in on it. Maybe occasionally.
Thanks Growdoc on the explanation. That makes sense! The online calculator was auto populating during any single number input but it didn’t come up with that. Now I am good to go, that was too easy.
The plant description said to grow the Pineapple Daddy indoor. I can, but during the summer I like to let nature take her course other than additional nutrients the ground lacks. Also easier on the light bill.
I was wondering if anyone ever grew a Pineappe Daddy and what to expect yield wise?
Sausage and everyone who replied, thanks! I am no expert by any means and still learning. If I’m learning then I’m gonna get better. I’m not overly concerned about yield but my last 2 Super Lemon Haze autos I harvested
last Feb were awesome. I left them under my grow lights 2 extra weeks. They were the two best in quality and yield. On one auto I got 5 1/2 oz and the other 8 1/2. When I get into that I am home for the evening…
They went two weeks longer because of family health issue, and turned out the best. The most noticeable difference I saw was in the trichomes, very little change in pistals.
I now have 7 plants growing outside that appear to be 3 different strains from leftover seeds and some ILGM replaced that most wouldn’t germinate. SO now I have another question and in about a week I will post a picture of what I believe to be a Apple Fritter Fem photo (APF) that was supposed to ba a GDP. I say APF because they replaced some that were APF germinate failures.
So I am not digging up the photo to move into the house. I would probably do more harm than not. I was wondering if there is a way to speed up flowering while outside in the ground? I know indoor you can cover a plant and force it to flower. If not, I am not worried about it because I have a backup plan, if you know what I mean, and it’s currently in place. 6 Auto’s for backup. 2 SLH and 4 GPD so I better not run out.
Thanks everyone. When I add a picture is it done in the FORUM or here now? Going to email from the forum is different for me. I didn’t get in the forum for a while due to a health issue in the family, and when I returned I see some things have changed. I would think when posting a pic it would be done on the Forum?
Things have got better so now I’m back. I hope to not be a nuisance and again thanks for everyones help!!
Autoflowering plants produce lower yields than photoperiod plants because the autos don’t grow for as long. You can grow a photoperiod plant for 6-12 months and get it huge before flipping it to flower. Most autos will start to flower a month or two after they germinate so their total size will be less than a photoperiod plant.
If the plant outside is not flowering, you can cover it in the afternoon so it goes dark after 12 hours of light. Do this for 2 weeks and it will trigger the plant to start flowering.
If the plant outside is already flowering, you just have to let it run its course. Some people in organized crime spray the plants with chemicals to speed up the flowers growth so they can harvest sooner but the chemicals are toxic and you don’t want them on your plants or in your lungs.
I am running 2 plants in my 3x4 area, and i am averaging close to or above a lb each grow! But that is also do too a good quality light, good soil and nutrients and maintaining a healthy environment for them! Not let it get to humid or to dry. Dont let them scortch in heat or by the light being too close, or freeze in cold or damage them with a fan blowing to hard on them. I learn from experience
23.6in (600mm) Vevor 400w led grow light with samsung 281b diodes is the light im using!
Thanks Randy,
I knew the photos produce more yield and my goal once I realized the mistaken seed (replaecement) being a photo, my plan was to get it in the ground asap. I had it ready, but there was too much rain. Flooding all around me. I live on a hilltop so fortunately I didn’t get the damage so many others around here got, and some are still getting hammered.
It has started to flower, so I will let her go and see what I get. I prefer to grow inside when it is not possible outside. Less convenient but I like sunlight and being outside when possible.
I may have seemed more worried than I actually am. It is just my way of expressing myself, I guess?
If you think of anything else that might help please let me know.
A lot of people that grow outdoors grow in raised garden beds to give better drainage and reduce the chance of root rot if there is lots of rain or they live in a low lying area. You can buy or build raised garden beds and have them about 2-3 feet high.
You can put up frames around the plant and if it rains you put a plastic cover over the frame to keep the plant drier. If you have the money spare, you can buy patios with electric roof tops. There are several types available, one has vertical slats that turn up and down to open the roof or close it. The other type is more expensive but has a material cover that can be moved to open or close the roof. These are more common on commercial greenhouses due to their price (expensive).
Hi Strungthru,
Thanks for your reply. What strain is that, just curious from looking at it? I am using good soil and nutrients both inside and outside. When outside I dig the holes x-tra deep and use some soil I buy to fill in the holes mixed with natural soil, sand and clay.
I have 4 SPECTRA VIPAR P2000 lights. They are 2’x1’ and 240W. On my last auto that I got 8 oz, the last 3 weeks I had an x-tra light, so I hung two vertically and one horizontally. I have thought of a one light system but haven’t yet. Do you know what the MFG of the light says the amount of electricity it uses? If it produces great yields then so be it. Sometimes to get more you have to spend more up front. I DONT PLAN TO RUN OUT.
One thing I am curious about, what size container is the plant in the picture in? How much soil? The last time I did a photo I had a 55 gallon drum cut in 1/2, almost filled with bought soil and a little mix of outside soil, clay and sand, maybe 2 to 3 gallons with a few stones on the bottom.
Keep em coming all. I am still learning so I won’t hesitate to ask, even if it sounds stupid, it isn’t to me. I’m retired and old enough I don’t care.
I am running 5 gallon fabic pots on the self watering bases.
The plant on the left is Lemon Skunk, and on the right is Franco’s lemon cheese. The Lemon Skunk is a 50/50 hybrid, and the lemon cheese is 60% sativa/ 40% indica, so its naturally taller, so scrog screen was the option for this grow to try to wrangle them to the same height!
That light i am using is around 180ish from vevor direct, but mine came from a buddy whom passed.
Power consumption is 400W ± 10%.
I mix my own soil using:
47.5%Espoma organic potting mix
47.5%Espoma Land and sea gourmet compost
2.5%Blood meal
2.5%Bone meal
Im labeling these measurements and 2.5, becuase its really just a plam full of each blood meal and bone meal added to mixing 3cubic ft worth of the two bags mixed, as i purchase them as 1.5 ft² bags each.
Hope everyone is having a good weekend.
I have a quick question. Has anyone on this thread grown any (GSC) Girl Scout Cookies Supreme, both photoperiod and auto? I have grown autos and one try at a APF Photo and I had to remove it after a few months. I tried to Forceflower it too. It looked great other than it didn’t want to flower?
I am leaning towards buying some GSC for the winter. I prefer indoor to be Autos in winter for the most part. I am asking if anyone grew both Strains of GSC’s and if so do you have any pictures to share and yield amounts?
Here are 2 pics of my SLH last winter. Still good, ahhhhhh, cough, cough.
My last , 2 Autos were SLH (Super Lemon Haze) and on one plant I got 8 1/2 oz, the other which by the naked eye seemed to have more yield was almost 2 OZ’s less. So much for looks.
1 of 2 had the 8 1/2 oz. I think they look good. Great buzzzz
Ive grown GSC indoors photoperiod a few years ago under a HLG 600r with Coast of Maine soil and nutrients. Vegged for 6 to 8 weeks and trained (LST) then flipped to flower. 9 weeks later ( 11 weeks post 12/12 ) i harvested and i think i nearly dry weight was close to 7 zips.
Thanks.
I plan to try different strains is why I ask. The SLH weight was after dry, trim again, cured and then weighed right before vacuum packing several 1/2 oz bags. I would like to find something that can produce somewhere around that amount. The description says up to 15 oz. I guess I’m not that good a farmer yet.
Good morning everyone, here from the EST zone,
My APF Photoperiod that was an accidental seed mix up, either by me or ILGM, doesn’t matter for my question.
The APF plant started to flower a week or so ago. I had originally thought it was an auto, if so it would be almost harvest time, per my initial plan. I will be moving it inside and putting it under light 12 on 12 off soon. It was originally in a 13 gallon container with the bottom cut almost entirely out. Once the hole was dug outside I removed the temp bottom to allow the roots to penetrate the ground. Now, knowing it a some type of photoperiod I have dug the ground back up and further a round to save as much roots as possible. (about 1/2 way to Japan) It has been in it new 48 gallon tub with about 20 lbs of new soil with the old bottomless container set on top. I then put more new soil between the old and new tub. (IT APPEARS TO HAVE SURVIVED THE TRANSPLANT) Now I have a few short weeks to figure out how to get it up a flight of steps?
I wanted you to know the history before my question.
I have been feeding it Bermans Flowertime for a few weeks now and twice added the Bergmans Booster from the kit I bought at ILGM. The Feed Chart shows Seedling (which I dont count in as total), Growtime for 4 weeks unless it flowers first and since then it has been on a Flowertime diet. What NPK ratings should I be using now? The Flowertime is a 15-6-30. Do I want to continue the Nitrogen and Potassium at that NPK rating? Also what if any change to the Phosphorus (P).
I am going to start mixing my own NPK ratings in the next couple of weeks when I figure out the different levels I want so that I can buy only the different NPK’s I need for my own mixings. So any input on PHOTOPERIODS will be apreciada.
I included a pic from Sept 3rd. The buds, as of a few minutes ago, are a bit bigger and a few more too. For a week now the days have been sunny but cool, 50 in the morning to 72. Gonna get warmer and up to 85 Friday so going to leave her outside a little longer. I wrap the sides of the cage just before sunset leaving only the top exposed a bit.
I’d heavily recommend against any stress including transplanting or massive environment changes during flower when possible. The stretch, stacking, and bulking phases are somewhat independent and all fairly short. The plant doesn’t really slow down as much as skip steps by those phases usually in my experience and stressors have a much larger impact on yield.
I am also EST and up North though so definitely get if you were experiencing worrisome weather. Getting the same and it keeps me up at night. My girls got too buggy and I’m out of space indoors or I probably would have been debating the same. Gaia is good though and she wishes us bountiful harvests so it will all be good in the end. My first go outdoor honestly, and it’s definitely more of a faith game than indoors so far with the growing season we’ve had.
Generally you want to heavily decrease N and increase P following the stretch. If you run N too high too long you’ll end up with more leaf material than bud material and it becomes a harsher less potent smoke. Good for edibles though because of increased trichomes on the leaf material.
I’ve never used that series and usually don’t even bother with NPK much because I follow the stage specific feeding charts for cannabis. I’d definitely search around to see if you can find that, but Google says 3:1:2 for veg, 1:3:2 for early flower(stretch), and 0:3:3 for late stage flower once blooms are present which feels pretty on the nose. So a good place to start would be extrapolate those.
Pretty sure the buildasoil series I use is fairly similar to the first 2 and skips the 3rd because their method involves a significant amount of plain water beyond the top and supplemental feeds allowing for the plants to manage the nutrient uptake rather than being force fed. Either way I’d pull way back on N in flower as Bugbee states nitrogen is the only nutrient to show evidence of increase in THC% when flushed toward the end of flower.
I’m also newer to this though and wiser minds may come in to correct me.
