I have 2 nodes below the existing mature buds that I need help identifying. The pics I see online of pollen sacs show many of them. I have occasionally found a bud with a seed or two but not more than that and only seems to affect one or two buds. I
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Pics or it never happened 
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Yes, Pics would be oh so helpful.
In the meantime if it has hairs coming out of it then its a female flower which always form at the nodes. I like to remove them after drying and smoke em one at a time…Lol
Female flower at node
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I think it is what you suggested. Feeling quite relieved.
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Female youre safe
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Yes, those a female flowers. They always have a good coat of trichomes on them. I am such a lightweight that one or two will get me buzzed enough for my liking.
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We all love the sugar sprinkles dont we!
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Those are valuable if they are mature seeds. This is my first photoperiod and it is from a bag seed.
About 2 weeks from the flip here.
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Healthy looking with lots of flowers. Very nice. I worry about hermie seeds making hermie plants. I’m not smart enough to know that but I posted the question and that was the majority of the responses.
There are a lot of reasons for a plant to make seeds. This seed is one of the rare, one or two in a pound type and is likely due to “nanners” and not full on male sacs. If the plant is a true “hermie” then the trait is likely to be passed on. If it hermies due to extreme stress, as a survival response, then the trait is less likely to be passed on.
I also have a bunch of seeds due to an extreme stressed plant(not mine) and so far the 8 or so I have grown acted perfectly fine for auto fems. They veg well, flower at around 5 weeks and make plenty of thick purplish nugs with no seeds or nanners.
This was the last one I grew. 5 oz finished buds.
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Such a nice bushy plant. I have never gotten more than 1 oz dried, cured flower. What am i doing wrong? Rhetorical question. Answer is probs everything:)
Probably it’s grow style or lighting, or both.
Grow style we can fix, but without fixing lighting it won’t make much meaningful impact.
Sorry if you said it but what’s your setup?
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Hi,
I responded a couple times from my phone but apparently that does not work:(
I am running two tents:
Tent one is a 5x5 with a Next Mega light. I use it for autos and for veg on photos. I grow in 3 and 5 gal cloth pots with a soil mixture of Coast of Maine Stonington blend mixed with Strawberry Fields from Fox Farm. I use TPS nutrients and cal mag.
The second tent is 4x4 with a Photobio MX light and this is 12x12 for flowering photos.
My yields suck!!
The room is not great which `leads to some temperature issues.
Currently using ILGM Runts and White Widow for Autos and Zkittlez for photos.
I would be happy for any suggestions on how to improve yields.
HMU with any more questions on my setup.
Thanks so much and let me know if i should repost in other forum.
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The Photobio MX is, at best, going to work in a 4x4 and no larger. I’m not personally familiar with the brand but it claims 680 watts with less than optimal efficiency. Similar situation with the next light mega - it’s 640 watts and doesn’t really explain what kind of diodes it utilizes. I would assume it, too, is equipped to handle a 4x4 flowering at most.
This is under the assumption that you run the light at 100% power, and since they don’t really talk about distance from canopy in their product info, I’m going to guess something absurd like 12-18” from the canopy.
Have you ever measured your DLI or ppfd using a light meter app? I suggest starting there - Photone is good and the only light setting you need is “Sun (direct)” to measure LED output. Measure from the canopy and see what the readout is. (Set Photone to 12 hrs of light and use the Sun setting).
Let’s start with seeing the DLI readout for the lights you have - get readouts for how you normally run them, and then for how they are at max power 12” from the canopy.
That isn’t your problem, unless it’s frequently extremely cold. My grow room is meh at best, with temps ranging from 65 to 101° depending on the day. These plants don’t mind hotter, but they’ll slow their growth if it’s too cold.
Why add the FF soil? Mostly just curious. I detest FF soils, generally. The quality is real hit and miss and they always seem to have a low pH swing during the grow.
TPS is fine for nutrients, I think. I used TPS One for a bit. It works okay. It’s expensive as hell.
Mostly I just want to make sure I understand. You have a 5x5 tent for veg and a 4x4 tent for flowering, each with 1 of the lights mentioned above?
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Yes to the last question as to basic setup.
So glad to hear about the temp issues. I get up to about 90 sometimes and I have really been concerned.
These lights were supposed to be really good. I knew light was important and hopefully i didn’t get ripped off. Not sure I would spend that much moving forward. They were about 1k each. The PhotoBio had lab supported specs. I had the light low on both of these for a couple of months and it seemed to really stress the plants. They would not develop Root systems did not develop and were so stunted. There were no indications of light burn but the plants were stunted. I have raised the lights higher and have so far been really pleased. I need to get a PAR meter for the lighting and make adjustments based on the results. If you have any suggestions…
I use the FF Strawberry Fields to add some coco, peat, and perlite in an attempt to make soil accept nutes more easily. In addition to the TPS i use some myco fungi to the root systems when i transplant. and add worm castings to the soil.
I’ve been at this for a couple years and I’m apparently not very bright. Happy to entertain any suggestions. I’m getting plants maturing 3 weeks ahead of plants with the same genetics in the same growing medium.
I very much appreciate your being willing to spend time coaching up the cognitively challenged old guy.
| Graysin Regular
May 17 |
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Kcatmc:
The second tent is 4x4 with a Photobio MX light and this is 12x12 for flowering photos.
The Photobio MX is, at best, going to work in a 4x4 and no larger. I’m not personally familiar with the brand but it claims 680 watts with less than optimal efficiency. Similar situation with the next light mega - it’s 640 watts and doesn’t really explain what kind of diodes it utilizes. I would assume it, too, is equipped to handle a 4x4 flowering at most.
This is under the assumption that you run the light at 100% power, and since they don’t really talk about distance from canopy in their product info, I’m going to guess something absurd like 12-18” from the canopy.
Have you ever measured your DLI or ppfd using a light meter app? I suggest starting there - Photone is good and the only light setting you need is “Sun (direct)” to measure LED output. Measure from the canopy and see what the readout is. (Set Photone to 12 hrs of light and use the Sun setting).
Let’s start with seeing the DLI readout for the lights you have - get readouts for how you normally run them, and then for how they are at max power 12” from the canopy.
The room is not great which `leads to some temperature issues.
That isn’t your problem, unless it’s frequently extremely cold. My grow room is meh at best, with temps ranging from 65 to 101° depending on the day. These plants don’t mind hotter, but they’ll slow their growth if it’s too cold.
Coast of Maine Stonington blend mixed with Strawberry Fields from Fox Farm. I use TPS nutrients and cal mag.
Why add the FF soil? Mostly just curious. I detest FF soils, generally. The quality is real hit and miss and they always seem to have a low pH swing during the grow.
TPS is fine for nutrients, I think. I used TPS One for a bit. It works okay. It’s expensive as hell.
HMU with any more questions on my setup.
Mostly I just want to make sure I understand. You have a 5x5 tent for veg and a 4x4 tent for flowering, each with 1 of the lights mentioned above?
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Photone, It’s a free app for a smart phone. You may have to buy the Sun setting, but it’ll be cheap (less than $20 easily, it may only be a few dollars.)
Next time, don’t do this bit. Worm castings are fine but they’re high nitrogen and they add density back into your soil. If the goal is to add some drainage with the Strawberry Fields, you’re hamstringing yourself unintentionally with the worm castings.
More importantly, excess nitrogen can stunt plants’ growth, too.
Unless they’re clones of the exact same mother plant, it’s not going to make much distance. Ten plants from ten seeds of the exact same strain (same mother and father) will be ten different plants with different genetic profiles. The ones that mature faster are the ones I’d keep around for breeding, but that’s pretty much just an aside.
You’re doing just fine. The hardest part about growing weed is navigating through all the BS that grow supply companies, from lights to nutrients to supplemental products, will push on you to get theirs in your hands. Lights are the biggest culprit, nutrients next.
Let’s start by getting the lighting figured out, and work forward from there. I suspect you’re doing it 80% right already, and correcting the last 20% will be easy but take some time.
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So this is what I do, definitely not the only viable method, but it nets me a pound+ per 4x4 reliably now. Here’s a past grow at transition and harvest:
Before anything is adjusted, I’d recommend looking more heavily into your seedling and veg stages. I am of the belief that if you aren’t at 100% coverage by the end of stretch, then you are missing out on yield… and nutes and light are the least of your worries. I try to have a cola in every single trellis square, sometimes more. I also aggressively train my plants such that they are all the same height before I flip to flower.
How many plants one has is irrelevant to weight, what matters most is floor coverage. I personally would ignore the data given about yield when buying seeds, that’s highly dependent on so many things. One giant plant vegged out to a 4x4 still produces the same amount as 6 little plants in the same space.
I’d also stay away from autos if you’re after yield unless you’re doing an aggressive SOG. With autos, you don’t have the luxury to veg for long, or perform very much topping, if at all. This is why autos by and large produce a lot less. Plus a single cola plant will net you next to nothing compared to one with multiple tops (indoors that is).
As far as light goes, I go about 10W per square foot in seedling / veg, 20W per square foot at transition to flower, 30W per square foot at week 3 flower, and 40W per square foot in late flower around week 5-6. Blasting the plants with a lot of light in veg does not make for bigger stronger plants. You will run out of useable light in flower, hurting yield.
For example, I use a Mars Hydro FCE6500 at 720W of total power. In a 4x4, I know I’ll need 640W by the end of flower, meaning my knob must be set at 22% (160W) all the way through end of veg, 44% (320W) at transition, 67% (480W) at Week 3 flower, and 89% (640W) at week 5-6 flower. Running the same grow under 640W from start to finish would be a noticeably worse grow. My lights always stay at the tippy top of the tent, without exception.
While par meters, PPFD, PPD, DLI etc and all that fun stuff is great and all, I am of the mindset that that shouldn’t even be a consideration until you’re totally dialed in and have all your other inputs perfected. This is why I don’t yet have a PAR meter or even bother using one. I still get shitty leaves from time to time so I obviously still have some dialing to do. But again, this is only one guys opinion.
My grow journal is below, running perpetual so there’s always something cooking. I’ll be starting the LST and training in my 3x3 tomorrow night so In the next few weeks I’ll be getting my 3x3 to full coverage before flipping. Feel free to stop in and ask all the questions you want!
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I have the Next Mega in the 5x5 which i use for veg and for autos. I try to have 3 or 4 autos mature every month. I usually harvest the phots every 90 days or so. The 4x4 tent has the flowering photoperiods with the photobio light. I will use the Photone App and share the results. I use the Strawberry Fields to allow more aeration around the roots.Will discontinue the castings.
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