I transplant 4 times so I do not start feeding until the 3rd week of flower. I also use a mix of the Loco, Frog and Forest so that helps out as well as the Frog is lightly amended and the Forest is hotter. When I do start feeding, currently I am using 7-9-5 Bonsai food, 2-4-4 Mother Earth and once in full flower I use Alaska Bloom 0-10-10. I also use the FF Cal/Mag 1-0-0 if I see signs of that needing to be given.
I’m growing auto’s so trying to not transplant
Im not an auto guy. I like to control stuff…Most go from a solo to the final. With Coco Loco, since there isn’t much in it, I would prolly start feeding at about 3 weeks after transplant to final.
This looks like over fertilization / lock-out.
Always surveille your run-off for pH and PPM.
Run-off should always be 20-30% of what you put in, and in coco up to 40%.
PPM in coco during flower should be anywhere from 600-1000 depending on your feeding method.
Coco Loco is primarily coco and thus should be treated as a coco based medium due to its cation exchange potential.
Ie. Ca/Mg at every feeding and usually aiming for total 500-900PPM in/out [meaning your runoff should match exactly what you are putting in. This way coco offers a safe, effective, and stable nutrient level.
Note: Coco Loco is also pre-charged so its also starting out with a higher than usual nutrient content making run-off ever more integral [and also pointing another finger at this case of overfertilization/ nutrient lock].
I personally use coco for its relative inertness, so I see no real benefit to using a pre-charged coco products, especially for new growers. It throws in unexpected variables.
In short: time for a heavy light-dose-Cal-Mag-buffered flush if your flowers are still looking like this.
