Can anyone tell me why the cotyledon leaves sprouted yellow? Should I start over, or see what happens?
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Give them time to green up. Looks like they just broke surface.
Usually by a couple days they’ll open and darken once they get some light.
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Ok cool thank you. I never seen them sprout with yellow leaves before.
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It could be a natural mutation and you have pale green or yellow leaves but it’s most likely due to being straight out of the seed and needs light to make chlorophyll to turn green. Most are green when they first pop out of the seed shell but some are paler, not quite as yellow as yours. Monitor and if it has weird leaves, post pictures.
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Ok thank you. I hope it just needed some light. Hopefully it pulls through.
Thanks for the reply. I start in a humidity dome, and I use the coco coins to germinate. I transplant into final pot as soon as it sprouts from the coco coin. I just checked and it looks like it’s starting to turn green. Fingers crossed.
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You’re all good. Takes a day or two for chlorophyll to fill in.
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thanks, but now it’s growing and turning yellow. I don’t know what the issue is. I’m about to just trash it.
Dome it. Leave it alone and start another seed drop.
Wait a week before making decision.
No watering for a week.
Fingers crossed.
I recommend FFHF for seedlings (little hot, but good stuff, IMO).
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Help us help you.
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Indoor. One week into seedling stage
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Growing Girl Scout Cookies and Humboldt Dream, both from Humboldt Seed Company.
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Feminized seeds
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Using tap water with a faucet filter. Also add Drops of Balance with each watering.
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Haven’t tested PH yet. Just giving small amounts of water at this point.
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Using organic pro mix soil.
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Using organic dry amendments from build a soil. Top dress once a month.
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I’m using LED lighting. Migro Aray 4x4 light.
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Daytime temps 75-79 degrees. Nightime temps 73-77 degrees.
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Daytime humidity 65-75%, Night time humidity stays about the same as daytime.
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Using a humidifier, and a heater to keep warmer temps.
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Have a 6" exhaust, but not using it at this stage.
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No added CO2. My tent is in a room where I workout, so I feel like it gets plenty of CO2
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I’ve been growing for about 3 years, but i’m the type of person who can do something over and over again and still screw it up. It seems like each time I grow, i’m faced with a situation that i’ve never dealt with before, so i’m unsure how to fix it.
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Not sure about this one. I try to purchase the best equipment that’s within my budget. Only thing I haven’t purchased in a while is soil. This is like my 6th run with the same soil. I just re amend, and let it sit for a few weeks, before planting into it. I make a hole in the middle of my pot, and fill it with black/gold seedling mix, so it’s not too hot for my seedlings for the first few weeks.
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I’m around 250 PAR. I always focused on light height, over PAR. This grow i’m gonna focus more on the recommended PAR, instead of light distance, but with this Migro light, you can’t hit the recommended PAR unless you’re like 12 inches away, and i’ve always been too scared to get my light that close.
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Not sure about this one.
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Using the Migro Aray 4x4 light.
I am unfamiliar with Drops of Balance
Exhausting is a method for control temps or RH
You are not alone.
I have more troubles when I smoke.
Mrs. Daisy forgets more when I smoke, more.
She broke the sink last week.
Cotyledons can be strange, but hopefully, will grow out.
Your soil looks wet.
Wet too close to stem should be avoided.
Make roots seek out moisture.
Wet ring away from stalk, not surrounding.
i’ve always been too scared to get my light that close.
Been there. 1000watts HPS frys them, quickly.
Saw my first grow and was asked why were they brown.
Louisiana, indoors, HPS lighting and they were cooked.
I run my lights +5inches higher than Mfg recommends.
20-25 inches vice 15.
Current grow may have over lighted them.
Nice recovered green seedling.
I have used previously, but didnt add enough perlite, probably.
Currently very happy with FFHF (more than FFOF).
I add some perlite, always. I over-water, often.
You wrote
I just re amend, and let it sit for a few weeks, before planting into it. I make a hole in the middle of my pot, and fill it with black/gold seedling mix, so it’s not too hot for my seedlings for the first few weeks.
2015-18
I grew tomatoes (in Japan) with the Black Gold Soil.
$17.00 a bag hurt, until the tomatoes harvested.
Re-using after breaking apart, sifting and sweating made for good soil, re-usable.
Now all soil costs more, ouch. Mrs. Daisy buys $10.00 in tomatoes weekly.
My Italian Princess likes Campari’s.
I start my seeds in coco coins. I thought that maybe I didn’t put enough seedling soil underneath, and it was getting nute burn, so I took both plants out, and added more seedling mix which is bone dry, so I lightly watered around the stem. I’ll let it dry out before spraying them again. The leaves aren’t droopy, so I figured they aren’t overwatered. I had my light 35 inches away to start, GSC was stretching and falling over, that’s why I moved it closer. I’m hoping that’s why it’s yellowing, cause it wasn’t getting enough light. I use the photone app to measure the PAR, and it’s reading around 250 now at 40% power.
All the hydro shops around me closed down, so I don’t have access to buy anything anymore, unless it’s online, and i’m pretty paranoid about buying soil online. I don’t want it to come with bugs in it.
You actually can grow in soils like Pro-mix or even MG.
Just being aware they could go differently.
All soils can, but good fresh soil is awesome.
Learning how you need them adjusted is the goal.
My soil testing rejects support my outdoor yard plants.
At a premium, but long term game & goal.
Waited 40 years to get legal and love life, again.
Bug lesson for free:
Introducing outside plants into indoor grow is like practicing unprotected sex.
Invitation to disaster. Soils can be cooked, but that kills the good stuff too.
Best wishes for good learning and fun growing.
I measure light “LUX” the Unit-T 383-BT 0-200KLUX.
My HLG 350R can max it out at 5 inches distance.
Too close, I figure.
Kil-a-watt meter and IR-Gun, just more tools for monitoring the grow space.
PPFD and DLI can be computed using formulas from HLG or measured.
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