Hi All,
I am planting ‘Jack Herer’ Auto in Ohio, as a newbie.
Would like to figure out the timing of switching from an inside grow to an outside grow.
May 10th is the approx. date to take it outside - so when should I germinate and place under my grow light, to make the best of that date.
Two JH Auto plants, only.
Thanks for your help.
Best,
John
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Welcome to the forum.
You will get varied opinions on this. If it were mine I would put down seeds in mid-April since it is an auto. Here’s why: most autos will flower at btw 4 and 7 weeks and suggest that you want to put it outside before it starts flowering since the transfer to outdoors can be a bit stressful to the plants. It’s not good to stress a plant much after it starts flowering.
10-4…thanks for the reply, MG.
Welcome to the community. Hope your grow goes well. I have some super skunk that’s 12 weeks from seedling stage and I harvested one two days ago. They are very fast growing.
Welcome to the community !
Thanks for the kind welcoming remarks.
My goal for my first grow here in simply not to shot myself in the foot - then expand from there.
I guess I’ll need to figure out when to transfer them from the Solo cups to my 3-gallon cloth pots, as well. I purchased a few bags of Fox Farm soil to use in the cups and the pots.
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Welcome fellow Ohioian…I will be in the same boat as you…will be doing some Indica leaning photos in NE Ohio
I used FF happy frog and it worked very well. No need for nutrient’s for awhile it’s pretty hot already. I suggest bigger pots around 5 gallon size. 3 will work Though. ILGM has a kit pack of nutrients that I used and it was great, just mix with water. Keep asking questions on this forum these growers are very experienced. I would like to see pictures of your grow because I’m going to grow JH myself. Growing is addictive!
What is your goal with this grow? True auto genetics won’t be sensitive to light duration, so as long as your plants behave as they should you shouldn’t have concerns about this. To me would just be a concern of how strong your indoor setup is. If it’s really good I would already be running plants. If it’s the opposite I would probably start plants 2-3 wweks prior to moving them outside. Due to the limited veg time of autos you’ll want them in good light source as soon as possible so you don’t end up with small plants starting to flower.
Hey db,
Yeah, the goal is just to make certain not to screw up my plants on my first grow.
So germinate and into Solo cups 3 weeks prior to moving them outside in May - got it, thanks.
At what point (or week) do I transplant from the Solo cup to the planter that I’ll be using outside.? I was thinking to limit the transplanting of these plants to just one time.
Thanks
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I typically transplant once the leaves of plant in solo cup hang over edge of cup.
Perfect…thanks.
@ John7
Right, I was thinking of placing a landscaping brick (or two) in the bottom of my fabric pots to make them more stable and help keep them from tipping over in a wind gust, while they’re on the deck. So a 5-gallon pot (vs. a 3-gallon) might be the better choice, as the bricks would take up some of the soil volume of the pot. Just a thought.
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I’m planning on doing the exact same thing except with a few photo seeds that I have. Fellow Ohio grower. I’m wondering if I let them go for a month indoors and move them outside at some point in May will that trigger them to flower?
12 hrs of light starts on march 21, the equinox.
A photo will only start flowering when it receives at least 12 hours of darkness.
This isn’t really accurate. Outdoor plants will flower on much less than 12 hours of darkness. Once matured they flower on the reduction of light time. It takes a little while in nature because the reduction of daylight time is slow. Where I live outdoor plants will be well into flower while there is still roughly 14 hours of daylight and are nearly ready to harvest by the time there is only 12 hours of daylight. The length of light time vs dark time varies by time of year the further you get away from equator. On the equator there is nearly 12 hours of daylight every day. If in this type of region plants will grow until they’re sexually mature and then begin to flower.
Starting plants indoor can pose problems if plants are close to maturity prior to moving outside. If growing on 18 hour schedule then moving outside to something like 12-14 jours daylight is large enough reduction to transition plants to flower. At this point the plants will stop growing and start to produce flowers. With daylight hours still extending in the spring, the plants will eventually identify this and event go back into veg. Until naturally transitioning back to flower just like they would if started outside in the first place. And with all the time transitioning back and forth plants spend most of the ideal veg season not getting as developed as they could.
It’s a really weird thing to watch if you don’t expect it.
Thank you for the education. I appreciate that.
So probably the best thing to do is just start my photos outdoors and not even bother with an indoor start?
If it were me I’d start them inside but I would sync my lighting to what’s happening outside time wise so as the days lengthen so too will my inside lights.
If I drop a seed in soil outside in may 10th and the sun is up for 14 hours I will use that as my lights on time inside so when moving outside it’s all good.
Here is a chart I pulled up for Akron Ohio.
Just enter your zip code and the month you plan on putting outside and that will give you the numbers needed.
It’s ok to have shorter time inside before putting outside but the other way around can cause issues as stated above.
Hope this helps
@Skydiver I am thinking the same way on timing with natural sunlight, I will be trying this this coming outdoor season and using the sunup and sundown cycle once light phase gets up to thirteenish hrs, will figure backwards from the 13 hrs and start seeds then with taking in consideration of our last frost which usally is last full moon in June for transplant.