Thanks for the tag, I’ll be in the back of the classroom!
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Looking great! I’m new to promix myself but @Growdoc has you on the right path. @Oldguy has been helping me out with using the right pH and watering schedule for my mix.
What you can do is start increasing the ring size to get the roots to search out more when you water. I started with a small ring and worked my way to the outer edge of the pots. I’m at 1L of nute water 830-850ppm pH 5.9-6.2 and then wait 3-4 days between watering.
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I will be lurken around looking good 
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I’m in. Yours look great. I started some Autos about 7 days ago as well.
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I’m getting the feeling there hungry and maybe some calmag? What’s your thoughts @Growdoc
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Have you decided on nutes yet? Most of us in Promix run either Jacks or Mega Crop. I like Jacks, my boy @OGIncognito runs Mega one part all the way through. I would mix cal mag at 125 ppm or .25 EC and add nutes to get the ppm at 300-350 or .7 EC total. PH it at 6.0 or as close as you can and feed them when they get thirsty. Don’t worry about runoff numbers for a couple weeks as Promix TDS-EC will read off the chart at first. It must be the starter charge of lime in it because it has no nutes at all but mine always tests high for a while. Lately, I’ve started rinsing mine like I was flushing plants or prepping coco with PH’d cal mag water until ph is same as input, then I’ll run a gallon of nute water at lower EC thru so they have food from the time of transplant. Some things I do may not be necessary, but when I’m harvesting pounds instead of ounces, I’m not changing anything unless trouble pops up. If you learn to read them and stay on top of your numbers every feeding, trouble isn’t nearly as likely to pop up.
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On point with that routine Brother 
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No brokey, NO FIXY! LMAO I’m too damn scared to try something different! I did order some Mega Crop 1 today though, It may expire before I decide to try it……
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Winner winner, I’m a keep simple and the routine the same as well Brother. Good to hear on the MC 1 part, I think you’ll dig the results 
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As of right now I’m using the whole cronks nutrient line! 6 days ago I feed them 1.5ml calmag, 1ml Bonnie (grow) 2ml monkey juice for root health and media health! All received 3.5 cups give or take! Ppm was at 320 when I aired the solution ppm went to 550, ph was 5.96. I was gonna give them another drink of the solution after I get off work, or what’s your thoughts? @MedLifeCrisis @Growdoc
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I would water a circle just outside of the leaves, you can feed her as often as she dries out. Watering is a bit trickier with small plants in big pots.
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Agree with Growdoc.
If you’re looking for ways to tell when she’s ready the easiest way is to get an idea of dry vs wet weight of the bag. When dry they’ll weigh basically nothing and they can get pretty hefty once watered.
If you’re in a dry environment you can also watch RH as an indicator. Wait until RH drops below your goal RH and then water.
Last way I’ve found and use is to let the plant get to early wilt and then to water. It’s a little riskier probably but I prefer pushing them to the extreme end of it because I struggle with over watering. It can be difficult to identify between wilt and droop though and the plant will droop because of too much water. Best tip I read for telling the difference is wilt is when the bending starts at the main stalk of the plant and droop is when the drop occurs mostly across the leaf itself so originating from the leaf side of the leaf stem.
Right now your plants look healthy. The largest is showing some slight curling which usually happens the day of watering but much beyond that is typically a sign of some level of over watering aka lack of dry oxygen. Like I said before I think you need to increase your dry period slightly by decreasing watering frequency. You’ll likely want to slightly increase volume you feed per watering in response to lowering frequency usually and will have to play with it to find the right balance in the seedling stage (frequency will decrease and volume increase every few waterings at first). At this stage note you’ll see the drooping pretty regularly as the plant is small and it will react to pretty small volumes of water. It’s really only of concern to me if they hold that droop for longer than a couple days and that’s when I adjust frequency and volume.
It’s also usually considered ideal to have the leaves pointed slightly upward almost like they’re praying. This is usually determined by the light intensity. So I would back off just slightly on intensity at this point until you see a slight bend up in the leaves the light cycle after watering.
That’s the queues I use when working through the awkward seedling stage where the plant is a little more delicate and reactive. You could likely continue with what you’re doing exactly though and get them through to the next phase just fine. So don’t get too anxious about it and let the plants tell you what they want. They’re super resilient.
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I appreciate you, when I get home at 4:30pm cst. It will have been 74+/- a couple hours since last water! Maybe give it another day?
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I find that’s the easiest when you have them in big pots I Normally water 3 cups or so in a ring when they do get watered, I just noticed the drooping yesterday early am!
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I’d probably wait until the next light cycle for the biggest at least because I tend to overwater. You’ll honestly be fine either way as they don’t appear to be drowning one just looks a little droopy.
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I was just curious as I veg under 24/7 and flip too 18/6 when they start to flower since there autos
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Autos don’t require a light flip. They flip based off root structure. The phenotype was discovered in a tundra where this change in plant development is typical due to the short growing season window and higher reliance on ground temperature I think.
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As for lighting, you can run any lighting duration at the right intensity. There are stage specific DLI values listed online. If you don’t have a par meter like me, photone is a great free app. If you have an iPhone though I believe you need a paper filter for the camera for proper readings. I ran my autos on 18/6 and then 10/2 with hour long rise/set. Theory being that they’ve shown peaks in efficiency of light uptake in photos at around 8-9 hours. I’ve read cannabis doesn’t require a down period for uptake though so you could continue the 24.
Mine were fried and struggled some with light stress even turning most leaves this very dark purple. I wasn’t monitoring DLI and was using ppfd recommendations for lower time periods. If you’re beyond the plants capable DLI you’re just wasting electricity and creating excess heat unless you struggle with light off environmental control.
I almost mentioned earlier your leaves look kind of flat. You want to tune in the lighting so that they’re slightly raised. They call this praying and it shows the plant is just under it’s optimal lighting. Basically when it comes to plants I’ve learned now less is more (watering, nutes, lighting, etc) and hitting just below optimal on everything is the goal.
Sorry just bored and yapping.
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