Mine was given to me by sF. We were going to hook them up here in the forum, but that deal is dead in the water for this forum.
Good to see you dropping in and covering for me. I agree about the light distance 16-18" for seedlings and at 50% power.
That is also why I always recommend T5 for seedlings. No guesswork
Listen ot Hellraiser. You do not need to try different propagaiton/seedling techniques. Stick with one until you dial it in.
BTW. Into week 8. Cut off nutes, and just watering. Will post a video in a day or 2.
Never a good feeling setting alone on the holidays hope u have a good day. B safe stay lit
Good to hear all is well Roger, stoked for pics and videos. 
OK. Life has been hell and we are rebuilding the greenhouse and adding some new gardens.
I have the final results for the most part. I still need to take some pictures of the buds, but I have yield numbers.
1st. to reiterate; I grew this with no extra additives using only *Bergman;s Nutrients, neutral well water that I never adjusted. 8 plants in 1 gallon pots and 2 plants in 2 gallon pots. I flushed with water for almost a month and let the leaves turn all kinds of color and all the terpene’s and taste and quality were there! 
I yielded 3/4 an ounce form all the 1 gallon plants and an ounce from the 2 gallon pots. Yield produced a little more than 1/2 a LB. 20-25% of that were smaller bottom buds (I am using them for Coco oil infused), but they work just as well as the tops.
Once again; I did this grow as a benchmark using only a simple nutrient regimen and no advanced training or growing techniques.
All in all, I am very happy with the SF2000 and I look forward to doing a more advanced grow in the near future.
I hope you enjoyed the grow. I may add more piks, but I just booted a new PC, because I filled my old PC’s hard drive. Once I have my new farm office setup, I plan to make a dedicated space for storing grow data and online sharing.
I lofve the SF2000 and the tent was great too, mainly because it is bigger than 2’ x 4’. I did by a new air system for future grows so I can actually close the tent, and I forgot to mention above; I did not adjust temps or humidity, which ran high most of the time, but I did run the SC to keep the room cool enough, but generally in the low 80’s f, and to exchange air.
I am doing one more quick video for the project and hope to post some final images.
Thanks for watching. Next time we hope to pull 2x what we did using more advanced methods in order to really find out whether it matters or not.
Peace to all. Roger
Congrats on making the end. Was kinda wondering if we were gonna see u again or not?? Glad to see they made the finish line. Nice job.
I love my sf2000.
It served me well in my 2.5x4.5 cloest last year.
I have it in a 2x3 tent now that is more suited for it.
But it did extremely well in that space seed to harvest a few times 
well worth the cost imho.
I replaced it with a sp3000 by marshydro in the closet, and so far I am super impressed with this light aswell for the price point, reviews, par maps, and efficiency are top notch 
.
Cant wait to see more from you more freind 
Keep it green 
Just vegged from feb4th until April 1st under sf 1000 just moved to a sf2000 I matched the foot candles since that’s all my meter could measure since I didn’t have a par-ppfd meter I got readings n raided the sf 2000 to Mimic the numbers??? Think I will be ok the light is a definately higher and feels the same to the skin touching the top of the canopy
Do you trim any at all durning veg or just the top
With the training I’m cutting trouble Limbs as they appear to maintain my canopy contaantly bending tying and bending and tying limbs I have 7 main sites with about 20 little flower sites all together
@Steve500 id try and get a foot candle meter I got mine for 50 bucks set it up at 900
Foot candles under the sf 1000 adjusting the light according to the meter and am
Having amazing results how tall is the light hung how hot ir cold is the environment is reccoment starting in a solo cup or even big pot if your comfortable watering that’s what I’ve been doing and had stacked nodes on each one lmk
If you want any advice follow my project it’s the first sf 1000 grow
I will check in once in a while. I am using the SF2000 for veggies now, since I can show them without worrying about getting popped. someone made slight of me last year because I did not post grows. I am in an extremely legal state with a governor that swears to God Cannabis will never be legal here. Too bad too; So many farmers would benefit as well as the economy.
I always clean up baout a foot from the bottom to allow air flow. This helps keep the little buggers from nesting in the lower foliage.
Keep postinghere if you are using Spider Farmer LED! Later, R
The sf 2000 is doing well I for sure wanna upgrade though what’s ur expierence been with sf
I’m really happy with my Spider farmer 2000. I’m on my third grow with this light in a 2x4x5 tent and although I haven’t gotten near the grams per watt goals that are advertised, I have harvested potent cannabis in reasonable quantities and I’m happy to admit that I’m still learning, three grows is not a lot of experience. On this last grow I decided to go with 2 plants, large fabric pots, and to use LST to get as many colas as possible. I ended up with 14 colas on each plant and although the colas didn’t get huge, I got about 5 ounces of very potent flower. I’m talking one good hit and “orbital velocity achieved”. Five ounces goes along way with that level of potency.
One thing that I noticed this time around was that all through the veg weeks the SP2000 kept the leaves a beautiful dark green color and closely spaced nodes. At 6 weeks the plants were about 14 inches tall and I switched the light to 12/12. In the time it took for pistils to start to form, about 2 weeks, the center section of the canopy started to turn a brighter lime green. I realized that the space between the top of the canopy and the light was now 16 inches, I had run out of room, and it seemed to be burning the center portion, so I turned the intensity down to 40%.
Well, it may be that the leaves that had been burned by the light would not recover and mostly got chlorosis and crispy. Shortly after that I realized that the leaves at the top of the canopy and the leaves at the bottom of the canopy were both looking bad. As I got closer to harvest, I removed the fan leaves from the plants because they looked so ill. The flowers continued to grow and fatten and I ended up with a nice harvest.
I’m thinking of what you would call depth of field with a camera lens. For example, a camera with a 50 MM lens with the aperture closed down will focus on a subject when it is 3 feet away and everything out to infinity will be in focus. That’s comparable to the depth of field of sun light. If you open up the camera aperture you may focus on a subject a foot away but things further than 2 feet away will be out of focus. This short depth of field of that lens/aperture setting seems comparable to the depth of field of an LED lamp.
If you compare this camera lens depth of field effect to the SP2000, at 100% intensity the fixture will be able to put the necessary amount of light on a surface at specific distances. If we know (or if we posit) that we want a minimum of 500 µmol/m2 and a maximum of 700 µmol/m2 on our plant, then it would seem that a tester could determine those distances for the specific model that is being tested and publish that data. That would negate the necessity of thousands of growers having to purchase a light meter. It may not be exactly accurate if there are manufacturing differences but it should be fairly close.
If we knew that the SP2000 at 100% intensity can put 700 µmol/m2 on a central surface 15 inches away and it fades off to 500 µmol/m2 at 24 inches away then we have 9 inches of well-lit space to work in. If we know that the SP2000 at 50% intensity can put 700 µmol/m2 on a surface 10 inches away and fades off to 500 µmol/m2 at 15 inches away then we only have 5 inches of well-lit space to work in at that intensity. That seems to me to be very important information for users to have.
I have watched several of Mr. Bugbee’s videos and I have examined the PPFD maps for the SP2000 and it has left me with a question about how the lights are tested. If I have a PPFD map for the SP2000, and I know that I want to have the SP2000 put 500 to 700 µmol/m2 on my canopy, then what I really need is for the testers to check and tell me the maximum and minimum distances that the light will meet that µmol/m2 goal. As Mr. Bugbee notes you couldn’t tell someone the proper distance any unknown light fixture should be from a surface without testing it but if we do test one particular model and we learn its output then those figures should apply to other examples of the same model fixture.
So, it’s quite possible that I’m completely wrong about this or that this information is published and I just don’t have the capacity yet to find or understand it and if that’s true then I hope that someone out there will point me in the appropriate direction. If it isn’t something that is published but could be then perhaps those in the know could nudge the testers to add a few tests to their metrics to provide this info which would certainly be very helpful.
Integrated sphere or gonio would tell you what you’re looking for, true light output of the fixture. This is thr difference between industry leaders in horticulture lighting and those selling ripoff’s of their fixtures. Industry leaders will provide you with one or the other.
Thanks for your response. After a few searches I don’t see any tests of the kind that you mentioned. Do you know of anyone performing those? Could you direct me to their results please?
