Been a while. Snow snow snow and I’m over it. I am ready for some planting weather! Matter of fact, that is why I am asking this question. Looking for more experienced outdoor growers that live in a climate close to mine. I am in the Cincinnati OH area. I ordered two types of photo type seeds, OG and APF (apple fritter fem),
I am going to start 1 each of the OG and APF indoors in containers, then I move both containers outside when the weather is warm enough and bury them 1/2 way into the ground. Several holes in containers for roots to get into ground. I did this last year, I feel late though, lwith 2 APF and got lucky because the weather changed before the plants fully matured. I say lucky because I had some great buds on both but, I have enough experience to know I started them a little later than I should have. Live and learn!
So if anyone within a reasonable distance from the Cincinnati area can assist me with approx dates for different stages that would be great. I remember someone on this chain has mentioned “flipping the switch”? I am guessing that it is some sort of force flowering?
I have downloaded the newest calendar but I would like to hear from someone reasonably close to my area, 2 to 3 hundred mile radius.
Anything anyone has to say, I would appreciate it.
Fellow Ohioian here…just up near the lake. Planting earlier will not make the plants finish earlier. People plant earlier mostly because they want bigger plants. The plants will start to flower when the days get somewhere under 14 hours (in general). That will happen on the same date regardless if you planted the plants in April, May or June.
I plant on 4/20 for my outdoor grows. I put them outside around June fist…about when the days get long enough to keep them in veg. They usually show flowers around the second week in August. The finish up the second week of October or so.
Since you are quite a bit south of me…you may flower a little earlier.
Was curious on why you do not just transplant into the ground rather than burry the pot half way. Not a criticism…just curious why.
Cincinnati here also I usually put the ladies out right around 1st of June and finish mid to late October flipping the switch is referring to indoor and the light change to 12/12
When growing outdoors there are 2 things required for a plant to flower. The plant being mature and a reduction in light schedule. Generally it takes about 4 weeks from sprouting for a plant to be mature enough to flower. Once you hit this point moving a plant thats on 18 hours of light indoor to something like 14 hours of natural light outdoors can and usually will be enough difference to make a plant start flowering. If you find yourself in this position the plants will typically start flowering then eventually identify daylight hours are still extending and go back to veg, then start flowering again like every other plant that is started outdoors when the weather is good enough.
Your last frost date should be late April to early May. So I would say if you were running a straight outdoor grow it would probably be safe to plant outdoors the first week of May. If you want to start early indoors really leaves you 2 options. You pick a date you feel safe to move your plants outside and crack them about 2 weeks before this so you get them outside and acclimated to natural light before they’re mature enough to start flowering. Or, you start them whenever you want and wait until probably mid June to move them outside. Your daylight hours will be the longest at this point so less likely to prematurely start flowering but even if they do you’ll be right at the point where daylight hours start dropping so less likely they would flower and go back to veg.
You can also veg on something like 16 or 17 hours light indoors to help safeguard against flowering when moving outside.
Hi Riskguy,
I will try that here and maybe a week earlier, weather permitting? Yourself and dbrn32 are around the same time so location I seems to sway it by a few days.
I use containers that will hold at least 2 large bags of top soil. I use a french canadian soil called Bergersm pronounced BURGAY. Best I can find for price. I live on a hillside and my topsoil here is clay. You have to get about a foot down in most areas of my garden spot to get past the clay. Lots of rocks too. So I start them in large tubs with several holes on the sides and larger ones on the bottom that I have sealed enough to get outside before digging. Once the hole is dug I remove the temp sealed bottom and set her in about a foot deep. Even 1’ down it’s not great topsoil.
I do the same for tomato and pepper plants only without tubs, and my yield on those differ every year. My closest neighbor has better topsoil due to his garden being at a lower elevation.
I want to grow photos outdoors and autos inside. I have better luck with autos inside where I control the light. To the tune of 4 or 5 oz’s more indoors?
Below is the topsoil I use, BM=Barkmix. If there is anyone on this email chain that buys topsoil like I do, you may qant to read up on this. It has all the right additives built in, except fertilizer of course.
Hi Riskguy,
I was reading your email again getting ready for June. It won’t be long before seeds need planting, and hopefully not raining 2 to 5 inches a day as it has been here in my area lately.
Time sure does fly by as I get older.
But while reading I saw the one thing that I didn’t mention about why I like planting tubs in the ground. When I put the tub in the hole I dig, I will leave about 3 to 5 inches above ground, while the majority of the tub is buried with most of the bottom cut out.
IT really helps with the bugs. Never have to deal with ants. The only thing I do is spray a little neem mixture occasionally.
Straight in the ground, I seem to find varmints I never saw before.
