All plants are filling up with pistils.
My doubt is 3 of the girls have a much lighter yellow appearance than the rest.
Ive started with bloom nutes and add a little bit of nitrogen rich nute as well.
I water at about 850ppm and usually drains less than 5%
I checked run off ppm at about 2000ppm
I have coco, organic rich soil, and coconut husks and perlite & mycorrhizal in the grow medium.
Water every 4-5 days and add nutes every 7-8 days or so. In-between ph 6 and 6.5
All girls seem to be happy and growing beautiful.
My questions is about the much lighter yellowish green leaves on 3 of the girls which seem to be growing very well
Looks like they’re in the stretch and nitrogen deficient, while less is needed in flower the stretch demands more. Did you check the PH in the run off mentioned above? 2000 PPMs is way more than needed but uptake could be PH related
Runoff Ph holding steady between 6 - 6.5 ph. But runoff ppm is is 2000ppm or more.
Should i flush the plants?
Seems like the upper newer growth seems to have the yellowish green and leaves down are nice and green.
Since nitrogen is a mobile nutrient wouldnt i have lower leaves yellowing first if its a nitrogen deficiency?
I wouldn’t flush, the plants aren’t showing signs of toxicity. There’s a considerably difference from 6.0-6.5. 6.3 would be the bottom of the range with 6.8 the highest. What nutrients are you using
My blooming nutes are NPK 6 : 30 : 30 + TE
Also i add a little bit of nitrogen rich nute mixed with the bloom nute.
The run off being over 2000ppm. How is this gonna affect the plant and should i look into rectifying ppm levels to about a 1000ppm. Please advice.
I would recommend water feeding only but think the plants in question are struggling with nutrient uptake and PH related. Go in with water only at 6.8 on these plants to approximately 20-30% run off and test the PH and PPMs on the next round, all in the plants look good
@Storm I’d love some feedback from you too.
FYI Im using non-organic nutrients in soil, coco, perlite, mycorrhizal,
Should i start adding epson salt and thinking or adding sugar when im feeding just water. Need recommendations on epso
salt and sugar dosages per litre, Also been thinking of adding some dolomite mixed in water or just put in top soil?
Also the plants in the centre of the light seems to have a slight wilt in the last 4-6hours of 18/6 cycle. And then wakes back up beautifully when the lights come back on. I have added a picture. Please advice on that situation too.
Also would you please care to comment on the below plant photo. Its structure is a little different than the rest. How do you think the harvest and yeilds of this structured model plants are. That plant is a gorrilla cookies auto
Sugar no. Blackstrap molasses yes. Pure not processed. I dont think you need it. How much coco? It is typically 1 or the other. Flush is not a thing for me unless very bad nute mess up. Living soil. Here is the thing. Coco likes 5.8-6.2 soil likes 6.2-6.8. Ph is the culprit in most uptake issues. To be honest they look hungry. Even with that runnoff number.
Spot on in my head.
Coco. Less soil. Coconut husks. That soil mix wont hold water. It will drain. Hybrid coco run. Change ph for a week to coco levels which I believe are closer to hydro at 5.8-6.2. Plants are healthy. They can take a week. We see where they go. Someone will slap me and give proper coco ph. Next round go 1 way or the other. Soil or coco.
Before any hard moves lets get ph correct. See how well you have water retention with the mix. Heavy ppm and light green tells me plant is just not taking it up. Heavy drainage and less watering does not help. Stage the repair with mild adjustments. Nothing crazy. You might slide the other way. NO NUTES for a water or 2. That is a mild flush. The life is not flourishing i think. Coco being coco lets lean towards that. Auto or photo does not matter now. In flower.
I myself would hit top of coco ph/bottom soil ph at 6.2 or so for a week. Repair takes longer than the problem did. You dont look to be in emergency mode. Baby step her till darkens a touch. Wilting is common lights on and off cycle. If a ph adjustment does not open her up we can check elsewhere. Small steps. Just my thoughts. @OGIncognito is on the right path to fix I believe.
That gorilla is an auto and they can be a turkey shoot. Some just suck which is why i heavily lean photo.
Ty for the tag and I hope some of this helps. Stay with bloom nutes no additives. Should be complete.
@Storm@OGIncognito thank you so much brothas been like a saviour and partners of the grow. Good vibes your way.
Today i recognised 1 leaf on a yellower leafed plant showing the above way.
Here is the updated situaton of one of the yellower plants.
Im gonna reduce soil ph. When i use the soil ph probe it shows ph 7. So im gonna bring it to about 6.3.
All the girls are throwing out beautiiful pistils at this time?
Should i do light height / intensity adjustments. At light intensity at 50% on a 4000w, wiliting starts in the center plant the last 4 hours. But i have brought the light up to 75% as the ones around it i see are loving the light intensity at 75% currently. Also i have 12 plants growing so the plants on the outter edge of the light really needs the 75% at this stage.
If you are using a coconut coir based growing medium you will need to fertilise more often compared to potting mixes that contain things that aren’t coconut coir.
One plant wilting when the others aren’t can be the start of root rot. Don’t water the plants too often. Increasing light intensity can help the plant use more water and reduce the risk of root rot by using the water in the potting medium.
You can have the lights on full intensity as long as the leaves aren’t burning and the lights aren’t heating the air up too much. LED’s are pretty good in that respect, they don’t produce much heat and can be closer to the plants without burning them.
