I’ve done a little research and found where during the last 2 weeks alot of growers will diminish the light schedule to 10/14 to get more tricohome production and more resin build up. I also seen where growers will cut the lights to 24 hour darkness the last 2 days before harvest.
Has anyone experimented with light deravation like this? I am on my last week until harvest and cut my DLI and shorten the lights to 10/14 and wateing with pHed water and molasses and am cooling off the inside of my tent from 86° to 75° and dropped the humidity to 50%
What else do i need to know? What about the final bud swell the last couple of days? How do i achieve this?
Thank you in advance for the tips.
If you take away a plant’s light, you remove it’s energy source to produce and maintain trichomes.
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I did read that there is no soild data that proves that by cutting the light schedule will aid in more trichome / resin production. This is why i brought it to the community to see if anyone else had experimented with this.
I read theres no concrete evidence that flushing will improve flavor also… ?
Should i still be giving nutrients and keeping my lights at 12/12 instead of 10/14?
I did this to lower DLI to influence the plants into believing its autumn.
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Good questions Grow Bro and has been the topic of a few conversations over the years. I experimented with the lighting hours, DLI and flushing and my conclusion is flushing does nothing, I do water feed the last week or so. My harvest DLI is typically around 40ish to 45 on the 18/6 auto schedule and just a little higher with photo periods. With that said I’ve ran some at lower intensity that we’re foxtailling and some higher that we’re light hogs 
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So, they would gain more on an 18/6 during the last few weeks of flowering or you run 18/6 the whole flowering cycle after the transition of 12/12? I just grow photoperiods…
Should i change the 10/14 to 18/6 to get a better yield?
I ran this on 12/12 the whole flowering phase. Is this wrong? In other words, after i get the 12/12 transition to flower, should i switch back to 18/6 to get a better yield?
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The 18/6 I mentioned was for autos, I flip the 12/12 schedule on photos depending on my grow space and plant count and keep the same hours through harvest. Switching back to 18/6 after flowering starts will send the plant back in veg mode (Re-Veg) on photo periods
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I thought so but the way my mind works, it can be thrown off track…lol… i start reading and forget what I’ve already learnt because of new information coming in… i should’ve realized this… i am just being frugal in my endeavor to get the most potency out of my plants as possible and i started disregarding concrete evidence thinking theres a better way. I’m having a ton of anxiety over harvesting these plants. I’m nervous I’ll screw it up.
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Master the basics. Good soil, good lighting, proper watering, management of pH and PPM, and so on.
Anything else is just trickery to get people to believe they can do better. Trickery gets clicks, and clicks make money.
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Been there Grow Bro and sometimes catch myself straying from what’s worked for me
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I always think theres a secret technique that is being hidden behind all the information available to me on the internet…
I also love to tweak things to make it better. Thats how i get myself into trouble.
It was interesting to read though…
So then no need to change from 10/14 with cooler temps and lower humidity and straight pHed water and molasses. No nutrients, will be fine then?
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It’s easy to get caught up in it…
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I cut nutrients a week or 2 before harvest. Not because I think it makes a difference, but because they aren’t necessary at the late stage and because it saves time and a little money on nutes. All a plant is doing the last week is ripening flower, and minimal nutes will sustain the plant without having an impact.
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I do the same as No need to change a thing then. It’s all correct then. Glad i asked here first before i went and started changing everything up. Thanks for the help guys. Its mostly appreciated.
I found a chart for the DLI in my state. This is the natural sunlight that a plant would be recieving. Im about 10 DLI higher than what this chart shows.
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