Hello,
I’ve reduce my power output to 60 percent because i don’t think this plant can take it till it flowers. And now i am at a DLI of 20 ( Recommended 25 ), which is probably where ill be till the end of harvest.
Problems:
Question being, can it make it to harvest @ 60% power or will it die before i get to see a mature bud Assuming it is still getting a little light burn from now on.
28c is ok. Not going to give a solid diagnosis but I am leaning away from light issue. Someone will pop out a support questionaire soon. Looks like a feeding issue but havent used nutes in a while and rusty.
Here’s a support ticket to fill out @N00b
Maybe some ph fluctuations but I do see a little curl in some of the leaves.
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16b. Size and temperature of solution in reservoir?
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Anything you feel would help us give you more informed advice should be included. Feel free to elaborate at the end of the survey.
You can have temps high as 36 c and be fine if you run a humidifier , you want at least 40 dli in. Flower and i run closer to 60, I’m seeing calcium issue, possibly also magnesium , are you PHing your water. There might be light burn if the lumen levels are way higher then ppfd levels( happens with low quality lights ) whats the brand?
Do you smoke cigarettes? I think I see some mosaic tobacco leaves which is not going to hurt anything if that’s what it is.
The curling of the leaves could be wind or light but I don’t think it’s light. Not enough other light symptoms. Could be a nute problem also. A support ticket may tell something else.
Good luck and keep’em growin! 
What is your humidity at?
What does this mean? Im curious.
Wow. Totally not what my mind was envisioning. There’s always one more way the plants can die.
Well it’s not gonna hurt it. More than likely he may not see another one. I’ve run across it twice and have seen other grows that have had it. All survived.
No, never in the grow room.
-What strain, Seed bank, or bag seed (photo or auto)
-Age of plant
-Method: Soil w/salt, Organic soil, Hydroponics, Aquaponics, KNF
-Vessels: Type and capacity of container (fabric, plastic, etc)
-PH and TDS of Water, Solution, runoff (if Applicable)
-PPM/TDS or EC of nutrient solution if applicable
+PPM 618 using flowering nutes
-Method used to measure PH and TDS
-Indoor or Outdoor if indoor, size of grow space
-Light system List brand and wattage/spectrum
-Actual wattage draw of lights
-Current Light Schedule
-Temps; Day, Night
-Humidity; Day, Night
-Ventilation system; Yes, No, Size
-AC, Humidifier, De-humidifier,
-Co2; Yes, No
+No
If growing Hydro some additional questions:
-DWC? RDWC? Autopots? Ebb and Flow? Other?
-Distance of liquid below net pot (DWC)
+N/A
-Temperature of reservoir
-TDS of nutrient solution
On July 13th PPM was 1010
-Amount of air to solution
Sorry but i read the DLI while flowering should be around 25. Also what do you mean by using a humidifier? My humidity Avg. is 50%
@Borderryan22 50%ish
You didnt get to the mid 500s posts where he got better results from 60 and updated his chart basically you rush to 60 but once about half your pistils darken lessen the light to avoid foxtails and thats pretty dry heres a humidity chart
So according to this chart, my humidity should be a min of 73% if my temp is 32 Degrees Celsius??
Doesnt that invite mold?
Also if i were to get 60 DLI i would have to almost touch the lights to get that kind of DLI. Already u can see the leaf curls, burns etc. That would literally kill my plant in a few days im sure.
Yes the Marijuna plant can take alot of light and photosynthesis it , given all the other factors are also optimal, my temperature is out of control. 
Thats not light burn if i had to guess you splashed water onto your leaf and got water damage , your light uses 301b diodes and your plant would literally have to be about 6 inches from the light board to get lightburn and no you dont get mold if you have adequate airflow and light , you get curling upward leaves if its to dry
Love the info!! Thx!
Chiming in with different advice. Canoeing is caused by a few possible factors but I just dealt with this myself and it was rectified in less than an hour due to the reason being the simplest to fix of the possibles. My heat was at 81º F and 65% humidity when I got home from work the other day. (Not my targets…I goofed and left my space heater on low, DOH!) Did the research and found out that the most common reason for this is heat. The canoeing effect is the plant “sweating” for lack of a better word. I got my temp back to 72º F and 45% humidity and within the hour the conoeing was gone. I do not agree with temps as high as 80º F in flower with high humidity. I grow in soil so my reply and info is based on soil grows.
The DLI chart is showing ideal light levels (max) when a plant is in the best environment.
We are all playing God with these plants, giving it the most ideal environment leads to the plant producing great results IF and only IF the genetics are able to perform at levels we expect or dream.
VPD is a huge part of this equation, as is watering correctly this is why autopots are amazing because they eliminate this variable most of the time while not being as complex as true hydro or aeroponics.
Wind is also a factor, we need a good constant russle on our whole plant to ensure we steer clear of mold while also making the plant strong due to the constant wind stress. Secondary to wind is air exchange, this is where our exhaust fan comes in to avoid mould get a grasp while also proving co2 rich air to our plants and exhausting the oxygen they offgass to the outside world rather then just out of the tent only to have it re circulate thus building the oxygen % while the plant struggles to breath.
When variables like this are controlled the plant can absorb more light and grow bigger faster and stronger producing more yeilds eventually.
Each plant stage is different and there are tricks to making our environment ideal for that stage.
For example when my plants are young I either dome them with plant bells or I have my AC infinity exhaust fan controller set to a humidty and a temperature rather then a constant flow. This allows my humidty in the tent to reach 75% as in veg we want high humidity levels. Meanwhile my humidfior is set to 80% so the fan kicks in but won’t vent off all the humidity.
Once the plant grows up and I switch it to flower I will change the exhaust fan to constantly run after the 2 week stretch period.
The fan is always kicking on after about 3 weeks because the temp sensor will set it off since my lights are Jack’s up, unlike those first 1-3 weeks.
So fix your environment and your plants will accept more light.
What kind of CFM are you trying for when you have the vent fan on all the time? I am using a 6 inch AC infinite in a 4x8x8.
