Leaves turning yellow and curling a bit

Hi everyone,

I would appreciate any advice as to why my leaves are turning yellow. They were doing just fine a day or two ago. These have been in the red cups for about a month now. I dropped them on 12/7/22. I was about to get ready to put them in a bigger pot and noticed one has it’s leaves a little yellow and leaves curling. I have only given them about 2-3oz of water. What am I doing wrong here?

Temperature: 80+ degrees Fahrenheit and humidity around 55 percent.

They need to be transplanted.


Is that the reason why the leaves are turning?
I’ll put them in a bigger pot today.

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Most likely. It’s difficult to maintain proper watering with a plant that size in such a small container. Also expect that the nutrients have been depleted from what little soil it has to work with.

The transplant should help it quite a bit.


The plants most likely have just used up the nutrients available in the small volume of soil. As @MidwestGuy said.

In addition to agreeing with the folks ahead of me, here’s a small suggestion that may help called “progressive transplanting.” It’s a method I use to take the guess work out of when to feed/transplant a plant because the plant is constantly being transplanted to amended soil. If you follow this, you’ll need to feed very little, maybe twice in the whole grow. Cal-Mag supplementation EO watering recommended.

I start in solo cups of happy frog for all seeds, and keep them in this stage for a good 3-4 weeks. I’ll transplant to 1 gallon pots of happy frog around nodes 4-5, or until the roots begin to swirl in the bottom (if the root ball falls apart, then you transplanted too soon).

From here on out, I’ll continue in this size until the plant drinks water quicker than every 4 days after a full saturation or if the plant completely “hides” the pot when viewed from above.

Finally, I’ll transplant to Ocean Forest in a 3 gallon from here. Unlike a lot of people, I like to hold off on the ocean forest until this stage because I think the PPMs are too high for plants younger than this. Depending on how long you veg, this may be among the first times you need to feed, as you’ll want a little bump in PPMs going into transition week (I feed near or below 900 PPM).

I’ll do one final transplant to 5 gallon pots of ocean forest on the day I flip to flower. This will take me to around weeks 4-5 before I’ll need to feed one last time before letting the PPMs drop in final weeks of flower. At week 3 of flower, I switch from cal-mag to mag sulfur. Easy Peasy!


Update on my plant: after transplanting it shows a little more yellow and leaves are droopy. The soil is wet and I did give it about 8of water. What can I do here?

Are these autos?

No, regular seeds.

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Have patience. If you are getting healthy new growth, then you are golden. It may take a few days for it to resume putting new nodes up.

Idk personally I’d start fresh, but that’s a completely subjective viewpoint.

From seed pop to the time you can cure and smoke your bud, you’re looking at like 5, 6, 7 months of your time and effort invested? That’s why for me, it’s always worth starting over rather that trying to stubbornly nurse a sick plant back (especially if it’s a seedling still). Maybe the folks that grow tons of plants at once can afford to keep sick ones around and take a chance, but for the smaller gardener like me, I can’t afford to have one crappy plant if I’m only flowering 4 at a time.

The reason I asked if you’re running autos is because there’s not a ton of benefit to starting photos in your finishing pot, other than risking overwatering your plants. In fact, I won’t even move to the next pot until the canopy is larger than the diameter of the previous pot (but again, that’s totally subjective). If a root ball crumbles and falls apart during a transplant, you did so far too early.

I see evidence of over-watering by the speed bumps on your leaves (the ridges between their veins should be flat, not raised). Generally, I find this happens a lot when people go right from seedling to massive pot.

While you totally can save it, I think a fresh start the right way on the right foot will make a major difference. It’s still so early and a setback at this stage would barely hurt in the grand scheme. I personally would start fresh with a plant that hasn’t had its vigor ground to a halt from stress.

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@CatDadPower I really appreciate all your insights.

This is my first batch of photos I’m trying to grow. I have two going at the same time. The other looks better than this one. Although, I’m noticing some color change today in some of the bottom leaves. Any idea why that could be the case?

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What are you growing in? Looks like a loss of nitrogen to me, but if you started in an amended soil like HF or OF then you shouldn’t be facing those issues. If this is the case however, my bet is that there could be some pH / lockout issues.

Idk if you’ll find this helpful, but the link below will take you to the playlist that turned me into a much better gardener. I can’t stress enough the importance of transplanting strategically and at certain points in the plants life. I’ve still yet to find a YouTuber who simplifies things as well as he does. I went from 28oz with herming plants to 40oz and no herms just by following his method.

Regardless of whose advice you go with, my recommendation is to not combine styles and methods from various growers. Choose one style you feel will bring you success, follow it as much as possible, then evaluate if it’s the right style for you and your goals.

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Whats your dli?