I have a quick little question, thanks in advance

Is it wise or frowned upon to switch nutes from Fox Farm Trio to Jack’s 321 rn?
My ladies are in mid :hibiscus:, maybe week 5ish of flowering. So could I switch from FF to Jack’s rn or should I wait until next Op?

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As a farmer all that matters is that you provide a good ratio of N,P, and K. What brand name or label you use is entirely up to you. You can sing and dance when you do it, the plants don’t care.


Naked, I would sing (can’t dance), but too cold currently in Seattle. The wind, the waves, Winter in PNW.


You can switch any time you want. When I switched from FF Trio to Jacks 321 in the middle of a grow they didn’t miss a beat


You can switch no worries👍 Just swap it out at the next feeding schedule. They won’t mind.
Are you using fox farm soil too? Have you flushed with sledgehammer or something similar?


Um, no “sledgehammer” flush, I’m not sure what that entails, or really, what it is. So to simply answer, no I have not flushed in like2 weeks I think.

Sledgehammer is just fox farms flushing aid. It helps reset the ph of the soil since FF products have a tendency to build salts up in the soil after a while. I didn’t know this when I starting using their soil and nutes and had a terrible time with my ph dropping and my plants being extremely unhappy.


Can I ask what types of symptoms or signs the ladies were showing for you to know that it was pH? (I only ask because my two girls … Something isn’t right). That’s why I am switch nutes because ppl have said that FF is weak in phosphorus and other things.
Also, would a filtered water flush strip salts away to reset soil and pH essentially? Or is that not the right way to do things?

They started yellowing and showing some deficiencies. The ph of the soil dropped to around 4.7 making it difficult for the plants to absorb nutrients. There’s a specific ph range that must be maintained to allow each nutrient to be available to the plant. If ph levels go out of wack the plant can’t absorb it.


I test my runoff water after each watering/feeding to monitor it.

You can flush with plain water but enzyme products like sledgehammer, General Hydroponics FloraKleen, etc make it more effective. The pH being off can mess with the uptake of macro and micronutrients, resulting in a lot of different symptoms.


I’m not sure if this is the spot for this but I’m going to do it. Here are some pics I just took when lights came on.

Not sure wat the discoloration is on the stems (where the dots are).

From the same plant with the weird stem discoloration.

Also same plant.
Next are a different plant.

Not sure what all this is about, on this one. Do things on both plants look pH related or nute related?
I apologize if this is not the right sub for this.

You can just post everything right here in this thread. It makes it easier to track everything down if all your info and pics are in one spot. Keeps the forum cleaner too.
As far as the discoloration I don’t feel confident enough to try to advise on these issues, we will need more information, can you fill this out while I call on some other guys that’ll point you straight.

COPY/PASTE the below list into your forum post.

Answer these simple questions the best you can.
If you do not know, or do not use something; Just say so; Or post
NA (non applicable)

-What strain, Seed bank, or bag seed (photo or auto)
-Age of plant
-Method: Soil w/salt, Organic soil, Hydroponics, Aquaponics, KNF
-Vessels: Type and capacity of container (fabric, plastic, etc)
-PH and TDS of Water, Solution, runoff (if Applicable)
-PPM/TDS or EC of nutrient solution if applicable
-Method used to measure PH and TDS
-Indoor or Outdoor if indoor, size of grow space
-Light system List brand and wattage/spectrum
-Actual wattage draw of lights
-Current Light Schedule
-Temps; Day, Night
-Humidity; Day, Night
-Ventilation system; Yes, No, Size
-AC, Humidifier, De-humidifier,
-Co2; Yes, No

If growing Hydro some additional questions:

-DWC? RDWC? Autopots? Ebb and Flow? Other?
-Distance of liquid below net pot (DWC)
-Temperature of reservoir
-TDS of nutrient solution
-Amount of air to solution

Always try to upload a clear picture in white light of any issues you may have to allow the community to assist you

@Myfriendis410 @latewood @Newt @OGIncognito @Graysin

Is runoff pH still in the low 6s?

I’m not sure why no one in the original thread snapped to this but FFOF and low pH are almost synonymous.

To answer this question, it’s fine to switch. I’d do a small flush as others alluded to here and water with Jack’s at the final ~gallon or so.

I went from the exact same combo (FFOF with fox farms trio nutes) to Jack’s, and eventually jacks + coco, and never looked back.


Dancing naked in the back yard doesn’t work! It does make the neighbors nervous. Hard to explain to the police also. I don’t do that anymore

(RO) pH 5.43 PPM800
2+gallon flush (tap pH 10)
(New water IN) pH 6.57 PPM 370

(RO) pH 5.47 PPM 1360
2+ GALLON FLUSH (tap pH 10)
(new water IN) pH 6.55 PPM 250
I’m thinking the ladies had a nute lockout situation going on, what do u all think?

I’m guessing it was a mix of salt buildup and low pH. If the plant pH is outta whack she can’t absorb what’s there. If what’s there is not nutrients but expended fertilizer salts, she’ll be exuding hormones to adjust the pH and never reaching the right pH anyway.

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we will see what happens.i just did all that last night. Lights will be off at 9am until 9pm.
So now my next question will be, should I start back with the Nutes next watering, or should I just feed with water only. I think they are week 7 of flowering. I can take some Trichome pics if that would help determine how much longer is left?

I’d probably do a half strength round of nutes - ppms around 500-600 and see how they respond. If they don’t seem to mind too much after that round, and the runoff looks good (ph and PPMs), then I’d say resume normal feeding afterward.

Trichome shots would help if you’re planning to do a 1-2 week “water only” cycle. Personally I don’t bother, but I know many like to.

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