I don’t have anything to back this up, so must be some of the Bro Science I hear about but I too water when lights go on as I think (here comes the Bro Science) that water when lights on gives her the fluid she needs to start photosynthesizing stuff. Moving nutrients to and fro. etc etc…
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Bro science worked for many years before Google. Not against it at all.
Right. Speaking of google, I googlied this
It’s best to water them in the early morning, or whenever your grow lights click on . This both improves nutrient absorption and reduces the risk of mold.
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I’m watering in the mornings from now on then. Thanks!
Here’s one of my favorite bro science techniques, (I’m not joking or being sarcastic),
In flower, when your pistols start turning brown, 21 days later your ready for harvest.
Now somebody had a pheno that this worked for. Take it with a grain of salt.
I use this to let me know when to start checking my trichomes. Sometimes I do, I’ve gotten lazy keeping track of days and weeks. I need a calendar. badly. 
When it comes to magic hour, I do not have hard and fast rules. The pistils browing and turning in is only an indicator that I need to grab my 60x scope and start checking the trichs. My personal goal for harvesting is 20-50% amber. I like, neigh love couch lock smoke.
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Interesting thread, I am currently growing in mostly FFHF. Do you mind if I follow and jump in occasionally?
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Please do, thanks for the follow. 
I’m pretty much the same, I’d rather watch the plant than the calendar. Because of the small tent I like to flip them early, at about week 4 or 5 abouts.I have a shit load of beans that I’m anxious to try out.
I keep a calender for milestones.
Birthday = first day above soil
Sexual Maturity = Visible preflowers
Actual flowering = Once colas have a hedgehog
and that’s about it. She always tells me what to do, not the other way around.
Perfect example, I have never transplanted during flower and especially not 3 full weeks in. On my last grow at 3 weeks, she wasn’t unhealthy but just quit growing like she was before and i just kept hearing her say I need more room and more light. I promise I will not disappoint you if you make me happy. So very carefully I transplanted into a 5 gallon and bought a bigger tent and another light and she did not let me down.
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Nice Haul. That took some courage to transplant 3 weeks in, leap of faith paid off. 
yeah, I will not do that again. 
Not bro science at all. Stomata thought to be open during lights on and mostly closed when in dark. When stomata are open is when your water come through roots and be processed by plants. Your roots also need oxygen, but not as critical when this happens. Roots get the most oxygen when they are dry or oxygen is dissolved into their solution. So the thought process is to water early so plants have the water when they need it. Then hopefully the pot dries out some during light time so it’s easier for roots to get oxygen during the dark, when they don’t necessarily need the water.
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Those of you growing in a peat moss based soil are familiar with the top layer going hydrophobic on occasion. When you water it rolls off the top and to the sides if rushed, you want to water a little at a time, let it soak a bit then water it some more. Yeah peat.moss. Some growers add a mulch layer, could be anything that covers about an inch above the soil or more. I use straw for example, and I don’t know if I’ll be doing that this grow yet. But the idea is you keep the top layer moist enough not to dry out and go hydrophobic. Also, the feeder roots, because of the moisture, are drawn higher to the surface closer to the top feed. I might have talked myself into doing a mulch layer again. 
Anyways, there are growers who balk at the idea of mulch layers. I’m talking about peat moss based soil growers here. I borrowed a tool from my wife the other day, and used it to break the surface tension. fancy way of saying to rake it. Little hand held tool. And I think she lost a tool, or maybe I need to buy one for.myself, but it’s darn handy. Just before you water just rake the top surface a little and that dry layer is gone. I know, so simple. There’s more to that mulch layer in organics. it slowly breaks down and feeds the soil as well. Yeah but it’s just an invitation for fungus gnats and critters. They come wether it’s there or not in my experience. And that’s a whole nother topic.
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Top dress with bti product like mosquito bits every couple weeks will typically keep them from being an issue. I don’t use mulch layer and still apply the bti.
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See. I know stuff i dont even know you know? Thank you for the info
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You guys are way out of my league. I grow simple. My last grow I used FFHF with a little worm castings and some soil from my garden, I fed her only water until a good week into flower. Then I fed her with a light mixture of Flower Fuel (usually 1/2 strength or less) about every third watering, 10 days of flush, then 18 hrs. of darkness before harvest. Simple and easy…FIRE. That was my first grow with Happy Frog; I was impressed with it
I plan on doing the same with my current grow. Wish me luck.
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Must have some really good garden soil. I thought of just mixing in a little mushroom compost and earthworm castings myself. So far it’s just the top amendment and worm castings I’m using. Should be enough to carry me to flower. What size pots did you use and did you grow outside or inside?
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@JKDjEdi I added some horse manure several years ago, rabbit and deer droppings,charcoal ash, and fresh grass clippings in late fall. Our garden gives us tomatoes, zuccinni, peppers, sage, and cilantro. Lots of worms.
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I grow only one at a time, corner of a closet 18" by 15" by 34", so a really small grow, one gallon pots. I usually get 25-35 grams of cleaned prime bud, which is great, because I took 30 yrs off from smoking, so it lasts a good long time. Current grow is a 1:1 cbd/thc.
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