One ounce of trim and bud off w.w. plant.
Not for smoking from bud.
I made bubble hash now what is the easiest safest way to dry cure store the hash?
I would think the best way is in a a shorter wide mouth Mason jar with rubber seals and the bottom lined with parchment paper. Stored in the dark for weeks to cure , ( this might only be for rosin) but then after cure give it a Lil stir to recombine separated oil
I use the silicon containers can get multiple sizes off Amazon. I dry on parchment paper same as I do weed but not hanging lol. Once dried roll on a temple ball and drop in a container close it up I do randomly check on it to make sure all is well with it for the first week or so make sure not mold and do a bit of air exchange other than it sets in my drawer where it stays about 63°
As a concentrate maker (rosin) I can share some thoughts on this topic after significant trial and error as well as alot of reading and conversing with other hash makers.
The proper way is to freeze your hash into spoon sized pucks.
Once frozen for 48hr sift it with a mesh sifter onto parchment paper that lines a pizza box.
Microplaning is much more difficult and messy but it’s another option.
The pizza box will have to be stored at low temperatures (still above freezing) and low humidity.
Many buy a wine fridge and use it to dry their hash.
Unfortunately if you use your fridge, while it will work great everything will taste like weed, including your milk and it’s nasty if the wife doesn’t hurt you first.
I wash my hash when the temperature is right so I can just put it in my back shed because it’s cold here in the spring and fall.
Then you can jar it into a Mason jar and keep it in the fridge, it will slowly loose its potency, rosin will loose potency after 6 Months.
Do not put hash or rosin Into the freezer.
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Explain why not the freezer @Nicky for all us rookies
Same question but for Keif pucks???
@2GreenThumbs the freezer will cause condensation ice crystals wich will melt when thawed and then the rosin will have water and mosture in it.
@Audiofreak, the pucks allows us to sift the hash one puck at a time. Hash starts to thaw and get sticky fairly fast, gumming up our sifter.
In order to sift efficiently its best to make multiple little pucks, keep them frozen and sift them one at a time.
I tried microplaning 1/2 of my hash all at once and it started to get really gummy after a while.
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My current issue is my hash rosin is turning into a crystal like shatter which makes it extremely hard to deal with. Glad it’s not sappy but still.
It may have been the strain (G13 from growers choice) or it may have been that my temp was to hugh (165f press for hash rosin, which is the upper limit)
As I dont do anything with the keif except smoke it, just have no idea whether it needs to be “cured or dried” before smoking?
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You confused my dumbass 
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Say it ain’t so!
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Oh it’s so 
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I think you all are over thinking. I’ve been making BB hash for years & dry it in a dark room with a ceiling fan on low. One day in there & I start smoking it, store in little wooden stash box in a drawer.
I think the key when making it is get all the water out. After pulling it out of the bag and putting it on the mesh sheet I wrap it with paper towels then inside newspaper. At that point get out a rolling pin mashing it flat. All the paper absorbs the water and the thin hash pieces dry faster than chunks or balls.
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I believe you freeze your hash to microplane it right after you make it, but once you dry it you do not store it in the freezer.
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Thanks @fast-grow , I wanted to Assume that but I’m already a big enough ass 
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Hola! My question is… After scraping the wet triches out of the bag(s) what type of screen to you put it on?
I put it on a super fine nylon mesh, that came with my bag set, on top of paper towels and folded over the mesh and towels to get as much water out as possible… But it just stuck to the screen… Wasted the screen and some hash…
What do you recommend? Anyone considering doing a step by step with pics from trim to cure to smoke?
It would be greatly appreciated!
My last attempt was good… But forgot about it and checked… Moldy… What a bummer!
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I use the same nylon mesh that comes with the bags. Some always gets stuck on the screen. Only thing I can think of is you made a very small amount.
The guy that showed me how to make it was a commercial grower in Co. One thing he showed me that’s not mentioned in books or instructions is snapping the bags once the water is out. Hold the bag at top letting it hang down, lift it up and snap in down in a quick action, kinda like cracking a whip. This will make the hash ball up and makes it easier to remove from the bag. Do it 3 - 4 times in a row.
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@deckman22 I will definitely try that… Just curious what qualifies a batch as large or small for reference?
I use the trim, leaf, and popcorn from four unscrogged plants each topped once.
That depends on which size bags you are using. I’ve only used the 5 gallon bag. With them a large batch would be 4 oz. Anything less than 1 oz I wouldn’t bother with. I think you can use more when running trim/small buds but yeilds will be lower compared to running all buds.
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Person opinion enclosed, this method may differ from others please be advised.
I used parchment paper when I did the ice water hash, I just pressed it out and spread it as thin as I could on the parchment paper and had a fan blowing on it.
If you use dry ice and kief bags there is no need to dry or cure. the method I use is pretty simple, a trimming tray or kief try, crushed dry ice, trim/flower, and anything with a smooth plastic edge and some good gloves (dry is around -109 degrees F)
1 In a large Pyrex dish combine trim/flower with crushed up dry ice and stir/mix slowly.
2 pour contents onto tray or put in kief bags, product goes in the bag with the larges micron rating, and then that one goes on the next one down and so forth.
3 if using a tray liberally sift biomass across the screen, and give it some good pats as well, if your using bags get to shaking, tapping and patting is useful in the bags too.
4 as the biomass comes back up to temp you can either add more crushed dry ice or set aside for a second run later.
5 when satisfied with outcome simply scrape all the broken tricome heads and necks together, compress by hand using Nitrile or latex gloves allowing your body temp to assist in the compacting process.
6 enjoy immediately after. The dry ice doesn’t introduce ANY addition moisture as a bucket of ice water does. No need to dry it.
This is just a method I have found works for me and is super efficient. I’m not saying this is the only method or even one that’s worked for anyone else. Just how I prefer to do it. Dry ice is typically from fifty cents a pound to around $2, I can process about 3lbs of biomass with about 2lbs of dry ice.
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