Happy Frog runoff test

I’ve got a 20 day old GSCE Autoflower 6-1/2 tall in very good condition. Happy & Healthy.


She’s growing in FF Happy Frog soil (nothing extra except a little perlite added) on Wed I gave her the 4-day watering in her three gallon grow bag. She was already drinking four and a half cups every 4 days. So I upped it to seven cups on Wednesday. This gave me the very FIRST run off.

I feed her nothing but rain water Ph 6.5 and the intake parts per million (ppm) is normally about 7ppm

The runoff came in with a 1650 ppm and a 6.15ph and a salt content of 0.17%

Is this all good. Should I change anything.

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Looks good. I don’t worry about feeding until it drops below 900 ppm. I use Recipe 420 soil but it’s a super soil like FF

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@Caligurl Happy Frog has about 3 to 4 weeks of nutrients in their bags. I’ll normally go 4 1/2 to 5 weeks and go 1/4 strength on nutrients. I use advanced nutrients products. Never once had a nutrient issue with their product. Once you start using them you could throw away the pH pen it becomes irrelevant with their pH perfect formula. I’ve tested and tested when using their nutrients without ever adjusting the pH is always on point!

The runoff on this at 6.15 seemed a little low wasn’t sure if I should do anything or not

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Ahhh, yes, for runoff in soil, that is a tad low. I know most people say 6.5 is the sweet spot, but I find my plants are a happiest at around 6.7. It may have to do with my plants being in-ground and not in pots. Even the ones in ‘pots’ have so many holes in the bottom, the roots just make their way through the holes and into the native soil.

I like the idea of ph perfect nutrients though!!

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I wouldn’t look to change anything as far as the runoff numbers. Everything looks great.

Are you planning on using B-52 along with your AN base nutrients? If so, you can give them some now. When I grow in soil, I start B-52 much earlier than the base nutrients, and they really seem to like it.

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@Cap_Ron I just gave her water today so she won’t get water again until 4 days from today I give them a 3-day drying. And feed them on the 4th day when I say feed I mean water.

Yes I will be using B-52 along with their three-part base nutrients Mico - Bloom - Grow

Also I’ll be using in the future there big buds, Bud Candy, and voodoo juice

I just did a update and ran a slurry test below the results…

pH 6.17
PPM 387
Salt %. 0.03

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Based on those numbers I’d say it’s time to start feeding.

You might want to consider not having a pre determined timeframe for your waterings. It might be better to go by the wetness/dryness of the soil rather than by a schedule. As they get bigger they’re going to drink more, and they’re going to want waterings/feedings more often.

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Your numbers are good to start feeding, but I recommend 1/2 - 3/4 strength the first go. This will let you see how she likes it and from there, you can increase as needed. Just mix a gallon at full strength, and after pH’ing, add distilled/RO water until you’re at desired ppm. Make sure you pH your solution AFTER mixing all nutrients, as well.

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@Borderryan22 going to start feeding her on her next watering. Should I add calcium and magnesium to the mix as well for the first go?

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I’ve not used the nutes you have, but normally in soil, once a week for calmag is enough. It’s ok to either skip, or add to normal waterings if need.

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The “Micro” in your grow, micro, bloom trio has 2.4% calcium, and there’s also small amounts of magnesium in the grow and micro.

If you were using tap water I’d say cal/mag wasn’t necessary with your nutrients in soil, but if you’re going to stick with rain water just keep a close eye on things, and you can add a bit if necessary.

If you’re using Advanced Nutrients Cal/Mag Extra, be aware of the nitrogen content, it’s 4-0-0. If you do use some, it would be a good idea to skip the B-52 on that particular feeding to avoid adding too much nitrogen at one time.

You mentioned also having “Big Bud”. Just a heads up, once you start using that in the flowering phase, I’d suggest alternating it with the B-52 instead of using both together in a feeding. I’ve found that the 2 of them together along with the base nutrients is too much Potassium at once for autos. So I use Big Bud with the base nutrients one day, and B-52 with the base nutrients the next day.

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@Cap_Ron I’m impressed Ron with your knowledge of the advanced nutrients. Thank you for the information on the calcium magnesium. I will be using rainwater until I run out if I ever do as a backup I have reverse osmosis water as well. Duly noted on the B-52 and the big bud. Thank you so much for your kind assistance I appreciate your help. Are you actually using the advanced nutrients?

As for the calcium magnesium I was using Cali magic from general hydroponics when needed…

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I love and have used Advanced Nutrients for about 4 years now, but Calimagic from General Hydroponics is the perfect cal/mag to use because you’re not overwhelming the plants with nitrogen, it’s 1-0-0 instead of the AN which is 4-0-0. I almost feel like I’m cheating on Advanced Nutrients by using the Calimagic, but it’s best for the plants, lol.

I use the Connoisseur line for base nutrients, and then B-52, Big Bud, and Bud Candy.

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I should add, I used to use more of the Advanced Nutrients products, but I eliminated some that I found to be redundant or unnecessary over the years. Now, I only use the ones I listed above.

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@Cap_Ron I’ve got some kelp seaweed extract coming is ok to use with every feed?

Should Big Bud $ Bud Candy eliminate the need for blackstrap molasses?

Thanks for all your help! :kissing_heart:

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The kelp and seaweed extract is compatible with your nutrients, but like anything else you have to be careful how much you add, and account for it in the total EC/TDS value of your feeding solution.

Let’s say you decide a good number for your feedings is 1000 EC or 700 PPM. You want your base nutrients to make up the majority of that number, then you can use different additives (B-52, Big Bud, Bud Candy, Kelp/seaweed extract, ect) to reach your target EC. For example, my plants are currently in week 10 and I’m pushing them pretty hard, feeding at 1200EC. The first 275 of that is Cal/mag (because I’m growing in coco). After the CM, the part A of my base nutrients takes it up to around 625. Then the part B brings it up to about 1000. So that only leaves me room to add 200EC worth of whichever additives I have on my schedule for that day.

My suggestion to get familiar with mixing properly is to pick a good size container for you, (I use 5 gallon water jugs) and then write down exactly how many milliliters/ounces you add of each product, and the EC readings. It’s confusing at first, but before you know it all the readings will become very predictable to you.

In my opinion one of the most important things about mixing nutrients (next to the order, which is critical) is having patience and not rushing. After I add my Cal/mag and shake the jug, I wait at least 5 minutes before taking my reading, and then I wait another 5 minutes and take a reading again before I add the part A of my base nutrients, and I repeat those steps between all the rest of the products I add. If you were to add the part A too soon after the Cal/mag, or add the part B too soon after the A, some of the elements can have unwanted effects on each other and end up making themselves less available to the plants. I’m sure I go a little overboard with caution, but better safe than sorry! It usually takes me about an hour and 15 minutes to mix my solution, but most of that is waiting time between products, and I use those minutes to pet and love my cats who are always jealous of me working with the plants, lol.

If you’re using Bud Candy, then there’s no need for blackstrap molasses. They have the same purpose, but Bud Candy is a better option in my opinion. The molasses isn’t really for the plants directly, it’s to feed the microbial life in your root zone which in turn help your plants stay fed. Bud Candy does the same thing, but it also has a small amount of magnesium in it as well, which helps prevent deficiencies which can be fairly common in soil grows sometimes.

Hope this wasn’t too confusing, I’m known for rambling on a bit too much sometimes!

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@Cap_Ron sorry for the late reply. Working 12 hr days in the heat puts me in a coma when I get home. Thank you for the wonderful tutorial on the nutrients I’m the same way with going overboard on information but it’s just how I am.

I got a few questions in regards to how do you get to the TDS magic number that you want to use in your case 1200 ppm

Example this is just figuratively speaking because I have no idea what the ppms are for each individual base and additive however this would be my example

Hey I don’t know what number I’m looking for so I wouldn’t even know what to shoot for. All I can go by is there nutritional chart for their nutrients. Since Auto flowers don’t use as many I’ve always been told to never go over three quarters of that number until all we start with 1/4 1/2 then 3/4 etc…

I’m assuming at following directions of what the nutrient manufacturer suggests that you use you follow the directions measure the total ppms in in your magic number somewhere in there?

I was going to mix the nutrients tonight as she is getting a bit dry but could still go a day or so. I like to push the dry side to an extra 24 hours if she lets me…

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Another question about feeding the advanced nutrient system…

When talking to their tech team about their nutrients the gentleman noted that I was using autoflowers. After advising me not to use any nutrients for at least 3 weeks and check the PPM runoff before adding any advanced nutrients or nutrients of any kind when growing in Happy Frog. I get that

However he did say when utilizing feed whenever I start with the auto flowers always feed to run off every single time.

What’s your take on that? I’m no expert in any way. Things at the plant is 3 weeks from popping out of the dirt in her 3 gallon pot she’s been consuming five to six cups of water and drying out by the fourth day. Well that gives me two feeds per week theoretically. When feeding to run off as suggested by the tech how does that affect her eating? Does that mean she’s only eating once a week or does that leave nutrients in the soil so she can get them all the time? I’ve overwhelmed you with questions and I really appreciate your kind assistance and you’re noted knowledge. You do a great job! :kissing_heart:

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Yes, whenever I’m feeding any kind of salt based nutrients I always make sure to get runoff. You should look to get approximately 15% of the total amout you pour in to come out. This will ensure that you don’t have any salt build up in the soil, but unlike some other brands, there’s no need to do flushes with the Advanced Nutrients, just basic runoff is good.

So I would definitely start with no more than a half strength feeding, possibly even a bit less for the first time.

The numbers can be a little confusing because some people use EC, and some use TDS or PPM, and with them there’s different scales as well. I went by the TDS 700 scale for the first few years, but I eventually learned to get used to EC.

What kind of EC/TDS meter are you using? If it has an EC setting, that would be the one I’d recommend you get used to, but I’m going to post a pic of a conversion chart, so you can use whichever is easiest for now.

When I grow autos in soil my input EC is usually between 900 and 1000, which translates to around 630 to 700PPM. But for your first feeding I think between 450 and 600PPM would be a safe way to start. Then you can raise it a bit each time you feed if needed until you get to your target number.

I also never do plain waterings. I use nutrients every time I water because they like consistency instead of constantly changing strengths in the root zone.

I’ve never used the 3 part Advanced Nutrients, so unfortunately I can’t give you exact measurements to go with, so you’ll have to play around a bit to find a good recipe. Maybe start off with 2ml of each of the 3 part nutrients in a gallon of water and see how strong that comes out. It’s good to take readings after you add each one, because the 3 parts will most likely all have a different impact on EC/TDS. The more notes you take, the less you’ll yell at yourself the next time you need to mix, lol, or at least that’s how it works for me.

Sorry if I missed any of your questions, my cat’s are hounding me for dinner, lol.

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@Cap_Ron thanks Ron. I have access to any water reading meter known to man. I can read anything with the meter that I have. So I’m all good there.

My rainwater right now is 6.0 when mixing the nutrients since advanced nutrients have the pH perfect there’s no need at the end to adjust the pH correct?

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