68°F is solid water temperature
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I’d say 68 to 70F is your target.
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70°f with a 5.7-6.3ish ph range is ideal. I do like to fluctuate my ph a little bit to let the nutrients all get their fair share of ideal absorption state. Again using an autopot system so it’s similar but different enough to use your best judgment.
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Im struggling to understand the on/off settings as the manual is translated from chinese, but i got it going last night. It seems like i got it in the ballpark. Cools to 68 then waits til about 71-72* to kick back on.
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Heres the one surviving plant that also had some root rot. Its got some new white roots since i started icing it a few days ago.
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Reading that I would set it to 67° on F1 and set the kick on at 70° just to keep the water from raising higher then 75° and possibly problems.
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Thats what i was thinking too. Thanks
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Or you could make a rubber coil place it in the bucket and have it set 67/69 and it will keep your bucket at 68.
My little baby getting her toes wet 
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It hasnt gone above 72, and its a 42 gallon chiller, so it recovers fast with just the 1 bucket.
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Oh sh1t that’s a big chiller. Why not get in some 27+ gallon totes? Got the power for it with that chiller.
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I like this. Tell me more about what youre using fir coil. I made a sleeve from a old 5 gal bucket and ran hoses through it so i didnt have to put holes in my buckets until i was sure what size and where. Id like to try the coil , with the sleeves and not have to put more holes in my buckets
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I have 3 holes. 1 for air tube, 1 to bring water in 1 for exit of water.
I am using a small drip feed irrigation system pump and a homemade chiller.
My tube for the coil is from a breathing machine with the mask… It’s got the connections on both ends and is about 12ft long. But skinny, I use the 1/8th connection. Like the air tube size.
Here is my pump the little white box, and the bucket is my chiller. Ice bottles and a window AC.
I just didn’t want to mix all my water systems and add more plants to the equation could cause problems if one gets sick spreading to others or harming others trying to fix one.
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Learning, doing uogrades as i can afford and justify. Started with autos in closet, then got 4x2x5 with used 200w led and home made dwc. Upgraded recently to 4x2x6.5, 250w led, and 2 bucket marshydro dwc kit to do photos. This is the first run in this entirely new set up. Never needed the chiller before, but i figured out that when i did my past runs, it was in cooler weather and we dont use our heat above 68, and leave windows open. So my water temps were good. Didnt experience root rot but 1 other time, and it was when we were in a/c season, and thats when the house temp is 76, water about the same.
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I started out in a closet wrapped in tinfoil lol, some home Depot lights and a dream, not I got 4x4x7ft and 2x2x5 tents 2 used spider Farmer SE 7000 750W lights, and 4 AGLEX K1000. 100W lights. Mostly everything I use is second hand except my AGLEX lights and my 6in carbon filter exhaust system.
I fully understand having to justify the purchase of some of the products bc of cost.
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Yeah, my whole intention was to save money on my weed, not spend it. ive made my moneyback in savings already, i expect more than 3 oz per plant now.
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Hell your on track for much larger then 3 zips. Just gotta do the training and maintain your environment rest will fall into place.
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I like that but i worry about roots growing into and getting tangled in the coils. I gotta be able to remove the plants at nute change and flushing without damaging roots?
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The tube is very light and is flexible can be untangled from the roots or at least that’s my theory. And I can detach the rubber coil from the outside lines and a wet vac could also be used to empty the bucket removing the need to remove the lid.
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