Coco, as we know must be supplemented with calcium and magnesium. Initially, coco needs to be buffered with a calcium and magnesium (CalMag) solution. It has also been my experience I need to occasionally (actually quite frequently) supplement with CalMag throughout the grow. I also use Jack’s 321 nutrient feed schedule. Calcium is derived from Part B - Cal Nitrate and Magnesium is provided by Epsom Salt.
With this as the backdrop, does it makes sense to add something like Langbeinite as a base source of Magnesium with the added benefit of Potassium (soluble potash) and sulfur. Likewise, can pelletized gypsum be added for its calcium. Bruce Bugbee adds it to his peat mixes at 10g per cubic foot.
I thought I would throw this out there to see what you are doing. I am currently preparing 40 - 50 liters of coco and figured now is the time to add to the mix.
Thoughts,
mix rates,
all will be appreciated
I have been using jacks in coco as well with ro water for all my plants except 1 clone in ffhf, grow room and tent inside are days away from harvest and outdoors are some autos and some gg4 clones. The only thing I have added is silica for all and flower fuel for those that are flowering. Other than when I expanded the coco I have never added any cal mag and havnt had issues.
Using Jacks too. I don’t add anything. I did presoak coir for 48hrs in calmag solution.
So far no issues. Plants are thriving and have super thick stems.
I only use calmag when i do a water only day. Other than i just use whats in the jacks. I also use basically all ro water unless i run shy on it. Most times i do as hellraiser does and add a bit of tap and that brings ne up to my ph level without any up or down. I have been mixing all nutes and phing them and then add tribus or fish shit afterthe mix is phd also. Ive seen a massive difference this way vs mixing it all and then phing. Ph or down kills some of the beneficials in tribus fish shit and recharge. Ive learned to always add any of these after mix is phd. It might change ph but supposed to not be a bad thing and so far ive noticed improvements not setbacks
Oh btw i uses canna coco bricks expanded with jacks 321 full strength no soaking just expand fill pot let it drip out plant plant. Lol
@Allinherhead@Mark0427@Spiney_norman
so you all have added calmag at one time or another. That is, while hydrating it (presoak buffering) or occasionally during the grow. What coco are you using?
I have two bricks of canna coco hydrated with nothing added. This is supposed to make 40L. The heavy bags the bricks come in makes this process very easy.
I am also prepping two bricks of GrowIt coco for about 15L of hydrated coco. I rinsed this though a sieve to remove any fines (dust) and it is being soaked in calmag. I also rinsed some of the canna coco.
I have used mainly growit. I take the block and break it down enough to fit in a bucket and hydrate the whole thing with full strength jacks. And plant seeds directly in it and never add anything else. Before jacks I hydrated with ro water and calmag. I picked up a couple small blocks at Lowes but after noticing it’s got some kind of nutes in it I just tossed it in the compost pile for the veggie garden next year. Don’t wanna use it for my ladies.
I did recently get a bunch of growing blocks and noticed it was chips so don’t want to return them so going to mix them in with the regular coco. Like perlite although I will probably still add the perlite.
I like the big blocks of grow it for 10 bucks.
Presoak w/ Jack’s yes makes sense. I for the most part dry everything after I mix it and store it in large storage bins. As I need it I fill a fabric pot and then water with Jack’s a day or two before transplanting into it.
I use canna coco get local for just under 15 for 40l. I expand it with full strength jacks 5 gallons give or take of jacks mixed up should get 80l easy expanded then i gill the pot with the coco solo in center to make the planter hole let it set for like an hour to let some of the moisture out it will drip from bottom. Then add great white mykos whatever and plant away. I give a gentle push on the solo roots to. Get them a touch loose and leave it the roots will grow out to the wet surface faster next day i water the outside stuff good again and just a touch to keep solo coco wet.
So far, it sounds like if I was thinking of adding a couple tablespoons of Langbeinite and 10g of Gypsum to a cubic foot of coco, I would be in the minority. You use coco? Add anything on the front end? @dbrn32@Myfriendis410@Nicky@Not2SureYet
The only non organic part of my grow is when I double buffer my coco with GH cal mag after that it’s pure dry amendments and liquid organics, though next grow I’m adding diatomaceous earth to me feeds
I may be the only here that doesn’t prep his coco. I rinse it good and just use it. Since I have to top feed for at least 3 weeks. I just double up on the cal mag each feeding.
He has tap water high in ppm’s though so it’s like a mini cal mag buff I think lol.
To be honest most modern coco’s are pre buffed and pre washed. I don’t buff or wash them anymore because I trust the brand I use.
I contacted the manufacturer and found the CEC of my brand. I suggest you do the same.
Coco coir has a CEC range of 30-100 meq/100 g. with 30-40 being most common. Substrates with very low CEC are more likely to develop deficiencies of the major cations, while higher CEC substrates will have less leaching of nutrients.
Most growing coco will be pre washed sometimes even Tripple washed and buffed, like. Mine and then contact them to know the CEC. If it’s good then no need to buffer.
or down kills some of the beneficials in tribus fish shit and recharge. Ive learned to always add any of these after mix is phd. It might change ph but supposed to not be a bad thing and so far ive noticed improvements not setbacks
so it’s like a mini cal mag buff I think lol.