I hereby relinquish my plant Dr license. My deleted post said nute burn. That said I just thought 80% on two HLG lights seemed high. I didn’t go above notch 6/9 on my 350R even during flowering. I looked at the light burn section on growweedeasy or Dr cannabis and one of the pictures looked just like yours with just the tips burned. I had one zkittlez auto do that on the tips. I thought it was light, but I was also having a big pH problem thanks to a pos vivosun meter. I got my apera meter and realized what was going on. I backed off the light and flushed down the pH at the same time, so idk which worked.
From what I’ve seen 99/100 deficiencies are pH related. That’s especially the case if your using quality nutrients according to the feed schedule.
They will begin to ‘stretch’ on you. Its an overcompensation for too little light density. The plants will grow towards the light, focusing on getting closer instead of more healthy foliage
Burnt tips are all so common for bottle fed plants. Have a look around on all the threads of artificial fertilized plants. Even the hugest colas always seem to have that ( burnt leaf ) issue. Mostly because the medium being used does not buffer worth crap, and plants take up nutrients at differing rates. When you think about it, ehat happens when you feed a plant that is using N really fast but not so much P or K ? Well the unused salts build up in the medium and cause an imbalance. The next time you feed, you stack more salts on and the imbalance becomes worse which causes ph issues and eventually lock out. When you grow in natural soil this is highly unlikely to occur. The plants take up only what they need when they need it. The result is very healthy looking plants that need very little work to maintain.
Even as the plants get older, they never get burnt leaf tips. Right to the end at harvest day, no burnt leaf tips.
I used to grow hydro and discovered iy was much easier to maintain proper balances in liquid hydro vs a soiless medium. With liquid there is no salt build up if you are monitoring ph at all times and… the important part… changing solutions on a regularly scheduled basis.
With soiless mediums, still hydroponic by the way, they act like sponges and retain things you put in to them. The only way to rectify this is to flush, which cannabis hates. Wet feet in a soiless medium is just plain bad. Its no bueno. Outdoors at 95f I water deeply 2 maybe 3 times a week. I may throw a tea at em here and there if I feel up to it. I top dress with lama poo because its gentle and weed seed free.
In closing, my motivation for this seemingly unrelated post is to hopefully sway some of you to switch to organic growing methods. The quality improves because the plants are healthier and that means a healthier end product. The effort is also WAY less… no ph monitoring no mixing noots, just water and sun. Peace and
With artificial lighting, turning lights down is equivalent to moving them away. You can combine the 2 . A fixture will become a better penetrator with higher output at a marginally greater distance from the plant. When plants are smaller, using less power and keeping a fixture close is a much more efficient use if energey because the plants do not require penetration. When plants are larger higher output is required to penetrate deeper, however, the plant material closest to the fixture can be overwhelmed, therefore it is usually best to back the fixture off to compensate for the higher output. It creates a paradox in the standrad grow area because as the lighting requirements increase, so does the height requirements and eventually we hit the cieling. I urge all artificial light users to do a little research on lighting to best maximize their growing envirnment. Obviously, pushing a fixture 100 percent all the time will also shorten its useful life.
I measure light in terms of DLI. If you don’t know what that is there’s a great thread by @Nicky called start using DLI. I use the photone app to adjust my lighting. Download the app and see if you’re in the correct range for DLI for this stage in your grow. If not then adjust it accordingly. If you are then let it ride. Good luck to you.
Hey @Mjm697 I’m using a HYPHOTONFLUX HOF4000 @400W. Your fixture(s) HLG 600r are 600W there are lots of HLG guys on the forum that are using this one that have better insights.
Looking at the independent lab provided light intensity charts above, you can see at 24 inches the HLG 600 R spec will sufficiently flower a 5×5 foot space.
For seedlings you want the PPFD to be around 250-300 micromoles. During the vegetative phase of growth you want between 300 and 600 micromoles of light hitting your plants. During the flowering phase 400 to 925 micromoles will do, although people using CO2 may choose to go up to 1500 micromoles of light.
Hang Height:
Seedlings: 34 inches
Vegetative Phase: 28 to 30 inches
Flowering Phase: 22 to 24 inches
The key to grow light hang height is to ensure enough light reaches the leaf surface from your grow light. Believe it or not a 12 inch height difference equals a 75% difference in light strength.
I recommend the above listed hanging heights for the HLG 600 grow light. Remember to keep an eye on your plants initially when adjusting to reduce the risk of unnoticed leaf burns.
Ya they need to dry out in between waterings. Every 3-4 days, you can tell when the pots get light weight. Try not to water on the plant but around it and water to runoff (when it starts to come out the bottom of the pot).
I love this I’ve found how simple it is to grow outdoors and mainly because I don’t ph anymore, I rarely worry about nutes (only if I see something going awry) and I just let the light, and temperature do their thing. I noticed the 2 plants that I had in pots with super soil did much worse than the ones I stuck in the ground and threw worms and microbes into… now the bugs are a different story LOL
Glad to here it. Yes pests can be a nuisance, its ok to hit your plants early on with neem oil and use bt later in the season. There are organic methods of controlling pests, including companion planting and planting sacraficial plants in other areas that will attract pests such as aphids and caterpillars.
I’ve been using bug zappers to attract and zap them pesky insects. No getting away from them. Top your pots with a couple inches of inorganic (washed sand) material. Bugs need your organic soil to lay eggs and consume. They do not like sand as a bedding in most cases.
Some people say use the full spectrum setting on photone. Others say use the direct sun setting. I’ve compared and they’re always close enough that it doesn’t matter. Maybe a 0.2 difference. Here are some DLI charts. I try to stay close to these, but if the plants don’t like it I back off a little. Every grow is different but these are good references.
Well I used the 2nd chart as my plants are not auto flowers and I tuned it in to about 44 dli for 9 weeks I was over double that before tuneing down. So let’s see what happens now. Thank you so much I really hope this changes things
I’ve found how simple it is to grow outdoors and mainly because I don’t ph anymore, I rarely worry about nutes (only if I see something going awry) and I just let the light, and temperature do their thing. I noticed the 2 plants that I had in pots with super soil did much worse than the ones I stuck in the ground and threw worms and microbes into… now the bugs are a different story LOL
I was over double that before tuneing down. So let’s see what happens now. Thank you so much I really hope this changes things