Build your own QB board

This is a guide on how to build your own QB light system in case you were a bit nervous.

Supplies you will need for this build…
2- 288QB boards (screws supplied w/boards)
2- slate 2 heatsinks
106 inches of angle aluminum
3/16 rivets (16)
(5) 5/16 inch grommets
Wago connectors (or similar)
Meanwell driver HLG-240H-C2100A
18 gauge wire
3 prong plug in ( I got one that is 300v)

Tools you will need…
Screwdriver
Rivet gun
Measuring tape
Drill
3/16 drill bit
Cone drill bit
Cutting blade for metal
Wire cutters/strippers
Razor blade
Clamps
3 blunts pre rolled


Smoke a blunt and then cut the aluminum to size20181223_154706
Drill holes in corners with the 3/16 inch drill bit.
Rivet In corners and insert heatsinks.
Drill with the 3/16 inch bit in the corners of the heatsinks to mark in the aluminum. Rivet in heatsinks to aluminum. For a more professional look make sure the face of the rivets are on the flat side of heatsink.
Uploading: 20181223_141433.jpg…

Now the heatsinks are riveted in. Measure the inside positions for aluminum and use 3/16 drill bit to make holes. DO NOT RIVET INTO FRAME YET! 20181223_154706
Use the cone drill bit to make big enough holes for your size grommets. Rivet aluminum to frame and insert grommets. I used 5/16 inch grommets and it was a bit small for the outlet plug. You have to drill come holes before you rivet.


Your frame is complete. That was the hardest part. Smoke another blunt😁

Now place driver in center of frame making sure the INPUT side is facing the single hole. I used a ziptie to keep in place since I’m not fastening it to frame.


This is where I had trouble with grommet size. As you can see the wire barely fit through the grommet.
On the OUTPUT side you have 4 holes with grommets. Strip the outside wire to expose the 2 wires inside.
Thread wire thru holes.
Now you can screw in QB boards to heatsinks making sure the brown wire is to the positive and blue to negative connector.
Cut wire to size and expose about 1/4- 1/2 inch of wire and push into connector. take the 18 gage wire (I’m using white here)and cut a 28 inch piece. Expose one end of wire and thread thru the 4 holes. push one end into connector and adjust the wire so it’s not hanging too loose. You might need to cut the other end a bit to make correct size. This wire connects the 2 boards together. One end goes into negative and other goes into positive.
Now to connect the plug in to the driver. I had some single connectors that I showed above. One of those were bad so I switched a couple out

Now is the time to light that 3rd blunt. Tell your significant other to sit there and see if these lights work while you plug them in… now you dont have to pass the blunt because they cant see you

Now for some technical jargon about what these badboys will do and how big and area I’ll turn it over to @dbrn32 the expert in all lighting
Also some others that swear by them @MattyBear @MAXHeadRoom. I’m sure there are others out there. Feel free to testify with some nug pics of what your QB board can do for you.

Great tutorial! I like the 3 rolled blunts… those are necessary! Haha. :v:

Very nice, thanks for posting all the detail!

Performance on that would like this if v2 boards.

Nice work! :metal:

That is great work. Thanks for posting. I am going to make me one of those boards. What was the final cost in building it? @dbrn32 would that be sufficient for a 2 x 4 tent or is it overkill? Thanks.

Thank you for this! Was there a significant cost savings by building it yourself?

I’m not sure about what it would cost pre built. The boards and heatsinks cost about 250 with shipping and the driver was a bit over 50$ If i remember correctly. I had bought everything but boards early in the year. So whole fixture cost around 325$.

I think this board will flower a 2×3 foot section, maybe a little more. @dbrn32 knows best. Also the driver can be switched out to be able to dim the light. Is equivalent to 600 hps

this was my first grow. I only had 3 fixtures in this pic. This tutorial was my 4th fixture that will be included into my flower room. So I’ll have a total of 4 light fixtures in a 5’7"× 4’11" room. I wanted the extra 11 inches for a middle isle to get into room easier.

You would do pretty good with a setup like this in 2x4. I would rotate boards and increase spacing a little to balance out coverage some. Otherwise same boards and driver. This is essentially all of the components used in hlg’s 260 kits. Configured how budtastic has it would be for 3x3. For 2x4 make it look like xl kit.

I also wanted to point out that I did save money by DIY. The main reason to build my own was to have smaller fixtures and be able to raise and lower each individual light. We all know plants grow differently in size. The lights should be 12 inches from plants. You can start further away and adjust over time to harden the plant to the light.
For electric bill for a one light fixture with filter and fan and all the works would be so low, you might not notice a difference.
Mine raised 100$ per month.
Veg room has T-5 4 bulb, 4 light fixture.
Fan, heater, and a single 2ft T-5 for seedlings, Inline fan with around 400cmf.
Flower room has 4 light fixtures for a total of 8 Qb288. 2 fans, huge 720cmf inline fan.

Bravo @Budtastic Great Job. Very detailed.

Where did you buy the boards, heatsinks and driver?

300V hookup wire minimum IIRC

Just to clarify (@Budtastic please correct me if this is not what you meant) for those that are not “handy” I believe what he means for you to use is a Unibit.

https://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Tools-16-Inch-Step-Drill-10234/dp/B00004THZ0

EDIT: Confirmed. I just looked at the photos @Budtastic posted, and there is a Unibit in one of them.

Yes thank you. I’m not very good with the whatchamacallits…you know, that circle thing. Haha

Boards and heatsinks were fromhttps://horticulturelightinggroup.com
And driver was from rapid led

I prefer a complete led to use, it is more convenient and safe to use. I will try unitfarm grow bar soon, very interested in its difference from QB