I’m not sure reducing light is your answer here. It seems like reducing the light strength and height might have ill affects.
When leaves yellow from the bottom up this is usually a nitrogen deficiency. Whereas leaves yellowing from the top of the plant down are a cause of too much light/heat.
In regards to the yellow leaves and removing — i would cut them out. You could space cutting them out by a day or so to not shock the plant. In any regard I don’t think they will rebound and removing them will let the plant put resources towards new growth rather than trying to repair.
Lastly your plant looks droopy/heavy consistently over almost all your journal entries. I wonder if you need more oxygen for your roots. Lack thereof can cause nutrient lock out and also cause root rot issues.
Just my 2 cents. Someone with more experience can correct me where I am wrong.
Ya man theyre still recovering from root rot over the last week and a half… ill try lowering the water level more but i have about a 2 inch gap allready…how much you think i should have it… and i lowered the light cuz the big one was praying this morning and one of the other guys recommended i lower it… hoping it wont hurt the other ones but still figuring it out man i appreciate the input @OhHeyThere
Ya I would keep your lights lower, even 36’’ up seems high, but I’d stick with what you are confident.
In terms of oxygen I’m speaking strictly about an air pump with an air stone directly below the roots. If your roots are not getting enough oxygen it can cause issues I described before.
Be careful about lowering your water levels too far. Doing so can quickly alter your Ppms and pH throughout the day. I don’t think this is necessarily an issue right now as your plant is recovering.
Still a really good chance it rebounds and you end up with a success story.
Light needs to be 24-28 inches from canopy you want the leafs to reach for the light a little but if they start to curl away then it’s too close so 24” is where most put it that’s a safe middle ground. Now like I said ppm to 350 until they start to eat again and ph at 5.9-6.2 to stop any lockout and like said you are having a nitrogen deficiency because of the root issues you where having but the new growth looks dead on and dont flip lights from 18/6 for atleast 2 weeks you want her growing strong before you start flower or the problems you have had can become huge issues in flower. At the plant size don’t lower the water 2” is more then enough at around week 3 of flower is when you want 3-4” below pot. Also the Rh at 48% is way to low you need that in the 60s or the plant won’t take up the nuits the stoma needs to open for the plant to eat and the stoma won’t open unless you are in the right Rh zone the stoma to a plant is how it sweats
Right on @BigDaddyCain ill try to get it up just hard i live in the desert! And Theyre autoflowers! Theyre starting to show pistols allready. Should i start flower nutes next week? And Idk if you have any experience but i was wondering wether i should trim all the yellow dead stuff right away… do it slow like @OhHeyThere suggested or just let them do their thing so i dont add any more stress?
Sry forgot to say it’s an auto so do it all at one time if you do it slow it will stall the growth. Oh an I have same issues with humidity in cold months so I bought a reptile environment humidifier with a humidity specific timer so it turns the humidifier on when it goes below 60% and off at 70% Rh so there are really easy ways to fix it I also bought a temp control for my exhaust fan it turns the exhaust on at 79 degrees off at 77 trying to find ways so the exhaust isn’t running non stop seams to be working awsome but this is first time with new equipment so it’s a lets try it and see
So i still got the ppm at 350 but i noticed the leaves clawing so i switched to bloom nutes held off on pk booster tho …its the start of the second week of flower and coming on the start of the 6th week from sprout… @BigDaddyCain@OhHeyThere@GreenJewels@Mote@Not2SureYet@Familyman@Covertgrower@mainboom@nicky im 99 percent sure i didnt have ROOT ROT and just locked out and stunted the fuck out of them with a combination of that chlorine soak i did and excess h202(didnt know i needed to dilute it first)…the reason i say this is when i switched back to the BOTANICARE nutes i got that same gunky build up and read the kelp in liquid karma is known to do that and is commonly mistaken for root rot to begginers like myself🙄
Anyways the roots came back strong and thought id let you guys know so you dont got to learn the hard way like me:P if we had a pool how much you think these plants will pull dry? Hoping for at least an ounce at this point! But My guess is 17 grams my girls guess is 20! Any of you seen plants this small turn out with good yields?
Nice rebound dude. In terms of return, hard to say right now. I’ve seen some short, fat autos that end up producing some pretty big buds.
Either way you learned a ton and shared your new wisdom with everyone, which is much appreciated. Keep updating as time goes, I’ll be curious how things end for you.
The knowledge and experience you gained is far more valuable than any amount of bud your plants produce. Not being a downer, but its not gonna be a whole lot. Once autos are stunted, it lingers for the rest of the grow.
Sorry to bug you guys but what you think this is? Its on the plant closest to the humidifier… thought it was a calmag problem so i added a couple ml but also read it could be from high humidity (got up in the 70’s)…another fear is septoria im gunna go buy so fungiside tomorrow but really dont want to cut anymore leaves… you guys know anyone whos dealt with septoria if that is what it is? @Covertgrower @BigDaddyCain
What’s your ph and what have your ph levels been at on that bucket daily?
Also try to keep that leaf from touching any part of the plant until you figure out what it is. If it is mold or mildew issues you don’t want it spreading to the rest of the plant.
Right on man im probbably gunna change the water out tomorrow and see if it gets any worse seems like its still spreading and didnt think that when i added the cal mag i might have locked out some other nutes
environment humidifier with a humidity specific timer so it turns the humidifier on when it goes below 60% and off at 70% Rh so there are really easy ways to fix it I also bought a temp control for my exhaust fan it turns the exhaust on at 79 degrees off at 77 trying to find ways so the exhaust isn’t running non stop seams to be working awsome but this is first time with new equipment so it’s a lets try it and see 
