Autoflower tutorial thread

Hey everyone, I’ve seen a lot of people having issues with autos lately, and I’m hoping that a thread dedicated to providing some detailed information based on my experiences might help. I just want to make sure it’s clear that I’m not claiming my methods are better than anyone else’s, just that they work well for me. Many of the techniques I use were learned from or at least refined by other users here in the forum.

Before I get to how I start my seeds, here’s a list of every single product I use through the grow when it comes to nutrients and additives. Over the years I’ve tried lots of products, and I’ve taken over a thousand pages of notes in my journals. I put a good amount of effort into deciding what I think works well and what’s worth keeping in the mix or eliminating.

From Advanced Nutrients I use,

1 - Connoisseur Grow A&B
2 - Connoisseur Bloom A&B as my base nutrients.

3 - Cal/Mag Extra
4 - B-52
5 - Big Bud
6 - Bud Candy

From NPK Industries I Use,

1 - Raw Silica
2 - Raw Yucca (wetting agent)
3 - Raw Enzymes

From Microbe Life Hydroponics I use,

1 - Photosynthesis Plus
2 - Vegetable & Fruit Yield Enhancer

Other than that, I use Azos, but only on transplant day, so I only buy the tiny bag. Epsom salt is also on my list, but the brand doesn’t really matter as long as it’s for gardening purposes. I don’t need to adjust pH much because of the Advanced Nutrients, but I keep food grade citric acid on hand for pH down and baking soda for pH up.

So that’s it for the products I use. Just for reference purposes, I stopped using the Advanced Nutrients microbe/fungi products (voodoo juice, piranha, tarantula) in favor of the Microbe Life Hydroponics based on price and because I’ve found them to be just as effective.
I stopped using Rhino Skin in favor of NPK Silica because it’s also cheaper, and I feel it works better, and I stopped using Sensizym and switched to NPK Enzymes for the same reasons.
I eliminated Bud Ignitor, Overdrive, Nirvana, Bud Factor X, and Flawless Finish because I consider them unnecessary, redundant, or just not worth the cost.

With autos, getting off to a good start is far more important than it is with photos. That’s why I made the decision a few years ago to stop planting them in their final pots and start in solo cups instead.
I soak my seeds for 18 hours in RO or bottled spring water, and I keep them between 80° and 85°F. I used to do the paper towel germination method, but I quit that a while back. It’s fine to do it that way if you prefer, but I find that planting straight in the solo cup after soaking works perfectly for me.
A good way to provide proper drainage in your solo cups is to make the holes right on the bottom edge around the cup. The holes won’t drain as well if they were only on the bottom or the side of the cup, but if they’re right on the edge, you’re removing some bottom and some sidewall. I use a cigarette lighter to melt the holes. Just go outside or open a window so you’re not breathing in melting plastic, lol.

I think a mistake that’s fairly common is to believe your soil is wet enough for planting because you’re getting runoff. New soil is sometimes very stubborn about getting drenched. Many times I’ve thought for sure I ran plenty through the solo cups to drench them, only to dig down a bit and find large areas still bone dry because the water/solution just runs through a few areas.
So there’s 2 things I do to counter this. If I have 12 seedings to start, I take the soil for 12 cups and dump it in a bin and moisten it all. I don’t soak it, I just don’t want it to be totally dry to start out. Then when I fill the cups, I add Yucca to the water before I drench them. Note, Yucca is used in tiny amounts, just 1/16 of a teaspoon is good for 5 gallons of water. This will ensure that there’s no dry spots in the solo cups for your roots to run into.

Forgot to mention the only thing I add to the water I drench the soil with is a bit of Cal/Mag (because I use RO water) and some Photosynthesis Plus.

Ok, I place my soaked seeds in a hole between 1/4 to 3/8" deep in the soil, and I lightly cover them. You don’t want to bury them to the point where it will be too tough to break the surface, but you don’t want to make it too easy either or you’ll likely have to assist in removing the seed hull. It’s good to make them have to push themselves up through a bit of looose soil to rub the hull and help it split better. I forgot to mention earlier that soaking (and if you germinate in paper towels) should be done in darkness. Once you plant them, it’s time to put them under your grow light. At this point I dome them to assist in staying wet enough to sprout properly. Here’s an area where I differ from many other users I see here. I remove the domes within a few hours of them breaking the surface. I feel they do much better with a humidifier in the tent/closet then they do with a dome over them. Again, not saying those who dome for long periods are wrong, it’s just not the way it works best for me. For the first several days above ground I keep my lights on 24/7, my temps stay in the low 80’s F, and I keep the RH at least 70 to 75%.
Around day four I go on a 16/8 light schedule (not a typo, I don’t do 18/6). I keep the temps the same for another 2 weeks, but I start dropping the humidity a few points every couple of days until I get to around 65% and then I keep it there through veg.
Ok, caring for seedlings. Since I thoroughly drench the cups before I plant my seeds, it’s usually about 4 or 5 days after they break the surface before the cups start to dry out and they need a drink. While seedlings at this age require no added nutrients, since I use RO water I add a bit of Cal/Mag to my water (maybe 150 to 175ppm) so I can pH it to 6.0 (this might vary based on your soil/medium, so please ask if you need) .
I only give each seedling about 40ml or so, and only with a syringe or some other gentle means of adding the water. Don’t just pour it in, the water rushing downwards can easily uproot the seedling.
At this stage it will probably be another 3 or 4 days until they’re thirsty again. At this point, I start giving them a small amount of B-52 along with the Cal/Mag.

I have to take a break, I’m getting hungry, lol. Here’s a few pics of some of my seedlings from past grows. I’ll be back to continue a little later.





These 4 pics were on days 4, 8, 12, and 13. I transplanted them on day 14.

And a few more random seedling pics.



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Nice tutorial. I hope some will find it helpful. I’m sure they will. Thanks for taking the time to write it all down.

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Thanks for the pointers. I’m really hoping mine catch up, 16 days in and mine is about the size of your day 8.

They look healthy but I moved them into the basement (tent) around day 4 and it was alot colder down there than I realized. Alittle heater in the tent is making the world of a difference, in 48 hours they doubled in leaf production. (Hopefully that makes sense). I could (and probably will) bring the temp up a few more degrees.

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They should pick up the pace soon. What size containers are they in?

4" potters right now.

Im running 18/6 @ 21.6 DLI. Is it worth it to go to 16/8? I also have seedling photos in the tent.

No need to change the schedule, there’s nothing at all wrong with 18/6, I just like the way 16/8 works for autos start to finish. Post some pics when you get a chance.

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Will do

The next common piece of advice I don’t agree with is that the timing of transplanting should be based on the plants leaves extending beyond the rim of the solo cup. This might be sound advice with photo period plants, but the last thing you want to happen transplanting autos is having the rootball break up in your hands on the way to the new pot. So I time my transplants not based on the size of the leaves, but on when I feel the roots are ready. It’s usually between days 12 to 15, but I judge by how long it takes for them to dry out again after a watering. If it still takes 2 days, they’re not ready yet. As soon as they get thirsty again the day after I feed/water, that tells me they’re ready to move into their forever homes!

Here’s some pics of the way I transplant. The idea is to become a transplant ninja. Get the job done without the plants even knowing you were there, lol.





The worst thing to do with autos is squeeze the cups or turn them upside down to get the rootball out. Just snip the top rim of the cup every 3/4" or so all they way around, and then extremely gently peel them like a banana. I use about half of my water/solution in the new pots before I transplant them in. Then I sprinkle Azos into the holes I’m transplanting them into, and then I run the rest of the water/solution through once they’re in there. I want the soil to be wet before I put them in it, but I also want to drench the roots after they’ve moved in.

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I do nearly the same thing. One little difference…
I split the cup before I plant the seed. Place it in another and there is less manipulation of the plant during transplant. Just lift out the inner cup and open it up.
Pre-Split


Open and drop.

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That’s a great idea! Gotta love it when you see a cup full of pure white beautiful roots!

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Yep!
Good info so far. You are imparting more of an understanding of the process rather than just a simple Technique. Its always better to understand something rather than only know simple cause and effect answers.

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Thank you @Spiney_norman. Feel free to add anything you think will be helpful to anyone.
I plan on adding posts whenever I have time. I want to describe how I decide on the strength of feedings, how I mix everything, why I give some things every feeding and why I alternate on others, ect.
I also plan on doing one on the way I selectively defoliate, and more!

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My light schedule is currently 18/6 do you think it would hurt anything if I switch to your 16/8 recommended light schedule? I’m currently in early bloom with all established bud sites, approximately 2.5 into bloom

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I don’t think it’s necessary to switch at all, especially if you’re all dialed in. The 16/8 wasn’t so much a suggestion, just an explanation of how I run mine. I plan on posting more info about this in the coming days. If you did switch, you’d want to up the strength of your light to make up for the 2 hours you’d be losing. I chose 16/8 based on the strength I like to keep my lights at, and then matched it with a DLI calculator. Like I said, I’ll post more about this in the next few days and weeks, but I think for now there’s no advantage for you to switch in the middle of a grow.

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Yeah thanks for the tutorial and your take on how you do yours…I think it makes it easier for someone that is starting out to read it like this…Then if they want to experiment or take your methods or another members methods they could find their own balance or even come up with one of their own through trial and error. Before embarking on this Auto journey I wish I would have had something like this to explain. There is tons of info and how to`s, ILGM has a lot and the net has a lot but this was quick and easy… Like everything in life there’s always more then one way to do things. More methods are always appreciated.
Thanks!

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Thank you @AL_GREEN, I feel the same way. This forum was a tremendous help to me over the last couple of years. Rather than any one source of info you can see everyone’s ideas and decide what you want to try. I cook that way as well, lol. I never look up one recipe for something. I always check out a few and then combine them somehow, lol.

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I was thinking about it and my first Maui popped a few days before the GG. My day count may be off by a day or 2. Today would be day 17

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@DieselGRWR, What kind of soil/medium is she in, and how often have you watered her?

Happy frog, nothing else other than PH’ing the water. I did over water in the begining which didn’t help. Once she dried out it made a huge difference. I only water when the soil is dry now. Tent humidity is hanging right around 60%
@Cap_Ron

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Ok, do you have a plan for what nutrients you’re going to use once the Happy Frog soil is depleted? And do you have an EC/TDS pen so you can test the runoff? That’s how you’re going to determine when to start feeding and how much. You’ll also need a pH pen as well.
I’m going to be adding posts to this thread later today and in the coming days all about my feeding routines.
For now, all you can do is see how she does, and keep up the better watering practices. You should definitely try to test some runoff the next time you water her, and let us know where it’s at.

If I don’t get back on here for the next few hours it’s because I’m heading out to shovel snow, hopefully for the last time this year!

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