So I’m in my indoor learning curve. I’ve probably done plenty of mistakes but this is making me scratch my head.
My grow has slowed down and my plants are not stretching anymore. I have 4 miniature autos (fault of my own, didn’t give optimal growing conditions)
I used a mix of soil/compost/perlite - I added mycorrhizal fungi, and now and then feed with effective microorganisms. Added a handful of slow release granular calmag in each pot.
2 of my autos went into this soil mix, and 2 other autos went in another used soil (i ran low so I mixed in soil from my older plant pots).
80x80 tent, 2x150w led.
DLI ~35-40
I’m using biobizz nutes, and I feed at around 1-2ml/L (fish, bloom, top max).
Water every 3-5 days as needed. Water PH 7.5 tap, but shouldn’t affect living soil?
I have overwated before but i believe it’s not so nad anymore.
The ones in old soil are darker in green.
The ones in the new soil are pale, and getting yellowing leaves with leaf tip burns. All are tiny plants.
My problem is the mimosa auto. Week 3 of flowering and it’s getting so yellow and pale. Even if I keep feeding little nitrogen.
Do I need to give more nitrogen? Is it a nute lockout? CalMag?
My fans broke down last week and i had 5 days of minimal airflow. Not sure of that affects it.
Can anyone help me spot this issue? What am I doing wrong?
Help appreciated. Next grow im gowing with 2 autos only.
Yes. They still consume N peaking at wk5. I haven’t used BioBizz before, so I don’t know your products.
Depends to a point on circumstances. Living ecosystem with worms and bugs that has a mulch layer to keep the rhizosphere moist and functioning breaking down nutrients and adjusting pH to suit. Bio availability makes them work. People are now calling soil living because it has microbes but so does everything in this world. I’d call this an organic grow and pH adjust my water.
Yea I wouldn’t call my soil living soil. Just organic as you said.
Bags of soil say thei PH is ~6
I was feeding with dehumidifier water before (mix in my nutirents), since it had a nice PH of 6.5-6.8, but people blasted me how dehumidifier is bad, and soil buffers PH, and so I switched to tap.
Distilled water is fine. It’s not usually recommended, but you are using the Kelp supplement that would fulfill the micros lost.
Those latest top shots seem to be showing Zn def. The distilled could have been the culprit, or the pot pH is just above the 7.2 range. I’d start by running a slurry test to determine.
I’m also running UVA lights 30min on-off-on midday.
But at 40cm height 1h/day I doubt UV is doing this damage.
I’m away for 2 days, grow is managed remotely until then. I’ll just have to wait and see results after this feedless watering.
I need a decent Ph pen tester, get some clarity there… I was afraid Ph would be the culprit again. It’s always a hassle getting PH right with my plants. And finding the most accurate way to measure it. Last summer I had 60 pepper plants and 3 different Ph meters giving me berzerk results.
I also have a micronutrient powder i can add. Or Should I get a supplement as Zn additive?
I also read on the bag of soil I used that the PH is 5.5-6.5, and EC is 1.8ms/cm
How does that translate in soil? Is this stated EC potentially an issue? I like this soil because it has no addet ferts, and it has compost and beneficial micros added, etc… And well priced.
Will mixing coco peat and perlite to it for my next grow reduce my EC?
Safe to say my autos will not stretch much but I see the buds swelling and connecting.
I’ve been using a bit of vinegar to drop my tap ph, then mix in my biobizz nutes.
It feels wrong or counterintuitive to add 1-2ml/L of 3 different nutes in one container for every watering as per BioBizz schedule. (bio bizz grow + bloom + topmax) not even counting in the occasional calmag, adding enzymes, EM, molasses…
Plant looks like it has deficiencies across the board. Eating it’s own nutes. Not sure what caused it but some of the comments you made lead me to believe you may not be following the schedule from the people what made your nutes. Top dressing with organics is the same routine as organic pour nutes. You have to recharge before it is needed so the stuff breaks down
In organic soil there is all the nutes you need. For a while. These need to be replaced in a schedule that allows the added stuff to break down into useable stuff. Grow environment plays a part in this. Lower temp grows will struggle with nute development but the self regulating bio of the organics will keep it in line ABSENT any other issues.
Most organic soils shoot for a pH of 6.3. Your choice to not pH water took a while but I think you have ran out of the buffer ability of your soil. I have no idea how to fix this.
You are not wrong.
I have messed up so many times, I have reacted and I did too many changes and executed on so many variables. With 4 different strains nonetheless.
I live on an isalnd (EU), and without access to cannabis growing culture and supplies. Finding decent soil is a challenge itself. This grow is one mistake after the other, with no traceability. But a learning curve.
I just need to figure out a soil mix I can make - or just ship Biobizz soil at an extra cost and use their lineup to the T. Will cost a lot, but I buy some peace of mind I hope.
For the time being, my 4 bonsais smell great I hope I get to enjoy an ounce… if I don’t kill them before harvest.
Distilled may be okay, i prefer sping water but dehumidifier water isnt unless in a pinch i guess, it can become contaminated by a number of things, use tap or spring water and ph to around 6.5 and whatever amendments your adding now will take 3,4,5 days to take affect, my advice for the future go with soiless next time and jacks 321 and for soiless I’d recommend promix hp with mycorrhizae and feminized photoperiod seeds, enjoy this great day in American history, get on your Trumpet
Ok I would like to try to help and solve/save your grow
If you have added any chemical salts ( some cal mag products use salt ) to your organic grow I am not sure you can save the organic bio system the organics came with. Just like salt was used to preserve meat as it kills bacteria this is what would happen in an organic grow. All the bacteria died and will no longer convert organics nutes to nutes the plant can use.
First let this plant dry out to the point of needing water/feed.
Mix your organic nutes at specs and pH the mix. If you added nutes to water ALL organic nutes hammer pH down. My current pour nutes need almost 6ml of pH up to hit 6.3 l. That’s a lot!
Water as normal knowing you are not out of the woods yet. As I stated natural nutes take a while to break down. The yellow will continue. Your yield will suffer but it can recover…
Do not defol yellow until they go necrotic ( die) as the plant will just pick another leaf to drain.
If you added salt based nutes and killed the bio this will not help and you may need to go to chemical nutes. Jack 321 will work but the system you would now have will require feeding to drain off a small amount and testing EC to balance the nute feeds. The good thing about this is that the nutes would be available sooner.
It is very difficult to use jacks at full strength without a dialed in environment and good lights and a healthy plant. I would not even have a guess as to the EC you should shoot for as I do all organic but ya know I read a lot and I know the guys here can help.
It may take some time for a drain to waste soil guy to find your post. If you are going to change to chemical create a new post stating screwed up up my organic grow need to change help. Tag your current post in the first panel to help explain shit.
Also may want to do a support ticket on your new post if you did make a new post. It is on the splash page for the forums under grow support. Cut and paste the information and answer all the questions.
Ps a lot of guys will not even bother if you do not up front answer all the questions needed to help you
Besides the pH, worthless numbers for now. The meters can’t distinguish available from unavailable of the organic amendments. Then from there it is based upon your chosen methods on how to proceed. My dry amendments sustain a high EC, and are worthless numbers for me. I spot check pots pH only when I see an issue.
I hope I get to enjoy an ounce… if I don’t kill them before harvest.