Your sf 1000 would have to be 8 inches or closer at 100%, with plant near center. For it to equate to full sun in the summer
Which is 2000 ppfd. As you can see on the sf1000 ppfd map from the manufacturer, it never gets close at 12"
@DPCBassman, @GenghisRon made a good point. I didn’t even realize it and I am having the same thing on my plant right now. If you look in that picture you will see that my lower leaves are yellowing too. Just need to snip them off. I was really busy today so I didn’t get around to it. But yeah, just go ahead and snip those off at this point, drop down the light, turn it up, and resume your regular schedule!
Do you have nutrients picked out?
Fox Farms Happy Frog is what I use for soil too. I recommend mixing in a bit of perlite as well, I mix in at around 20%. Happy Frog will have enough nutrients for around 3-4 weeks, but with an auto I would maybe wait a bit longer before giving nutrients as autos can be sensitive to nutrients, and my White Widow Auto definitely reflected that. When you do start nutes, make sure you give a 1/4th dosage to start off. I am not sure what a ‘safe’ maximum dosage is for autos, but I never plan on growing them again as the seed I got that was an auto was from a friend. I prefer photos wholeheartedly, and wish a lot of newcomers didn’t think autos were easier to grow just because you don’t have to change a light schedule. I feel like, and not saying this in a mean way or to you personally, but if you are smart enough to go through the rigors of a grow, you are smart enough to change a light cycle!
Anyway, you found a great place to gain info man! This is by far the premium cannabis forum.
@Budz don’t forget, there is an edit function brother 
I know. I use it too much as is.
Not really a reason not to use it. 
That is what it is for 
And I want to like the information you are giving but I am not giving 3 likes for it… 
Plus it kinda comes off as you’re trying to just increase your posts count
I’m not here for the likes. Just to try and spread good information that keeps the community progressing. People gotta know what you know in order to learn something you don’t. We’re all in this together.
You don’t seem to understand my side of the argument but that’s fine. I am here for the knowledge and to share knowledge. But likes and things like that I see as proof of your value to the community, and when I see that type of thing, it just makes me feel that way. It’s whatever.
Okay Budz; the advice from SF, via email, was generic at best. I’ve seen on this forum a “Guide” from SF but can’t find it. At this time their information seems to be moot as I’m relying upon real life circumstances for advice.
Merci!
Okay…remove the “dying” leafs.
I just a few min ago raised the light to 24" and up to 70%.
I have HF and Cultivation Nation ready to transplant (60/30% mix) but was waiting to get these gals back on track to minimize any shock due to their present condition. Nute’s will come later.
@Spiney_norman - kindly engage in the conversation.
I did not see this. When you transplant, bury the stem past the first leaf node (assuming they are removed). If the plant is 6" tall bury around 4" so only the top growth is showing. Get a small fan to strengthen the stems.
The leaf damage is not from light, you are starving them to death. Photos will have time to recover. Hard telling how the WWA will react.
Are you thinking you can flower them under a SF1000?
What exactly do you have going on?
What size tent?
How many autos? How many photos? Are they all staying in the tent.
Probably leaving light on the whole day used up any nute resources that were there now it needs good. If coco give food now
I would only use the light height recommendations as a guideline. Your plants will talk to you if you listen. Right now it looks like they want more light, and need nutes or you could have a Ph issue. You are probably getting close to repot time as well.
Transplant them now. Cut the peat cup off of them as it will not decompose fast enough for cannabis to grow. While the lighting may have been underpowered as indicated by the stretch, if it was cooking the plants it would be the tops…not the lower leaves. The yellowing is lack of food…but that can be pH issues as well as neutral starting mixes. Peat will move toward acid so I dont leave them in peat based starting mixes more than a few days. Autos I plant in 3 gallon bags after soaking the seed 24hrs. If you wait to transplant you simply are putting off the transplant shock to a point where they may be transitioning to flower. Autos can start flowering as early as three weeks. As stated bury the leggy stem deeper and it will form roots on it.
@Spiney_norman @Dankloud @beardless @GenghisRon @Budz; thanks for all the advise.
I’ll try to package my understanding, with some additional explanation.
There are two WW Auto and two Northern Lights Autos. And are 25days and 21 days in soil.See pic.
The others are Blueberry Fem-Photo, which I never expected to sprout. I have a separate forum posting on this if you care to read.
So the consensus is lack of nutrients and need to 1. loose the peat (I’ll never use again). 2. Plant into grow bag (5 Gal in hand).
Tent 27"x27" and I have a 5" fan running on low.
The BB Fem-Photos will have to be moved outside if/when the Autos get growing. More discussion on this I’m sure.
I intend to, today hopefully, transplant them into 5G Happy Frog. The 2 WW’s into their own bags - the NL’s together into one bag and the BB’s into bag #4. Open for suggestions.
I will bury them all deeper, but do I cut off the first set of “damaged” leafs too and above where the baby Coclydons grew?
Peat is fine s medium. It’s those peat pots that are hard for the plants to grow through and don’t work as advertised for cannabis. Nursery bags are the answer if you want to plant your first container instead of transplant.
And I’ve not seen good results for two plants in one pot/bag. 5 gal isn’t a lot of room for two plants.
They will like happy frog. Make sure to moisten the soil before transplant then just a little water after. Happy frog will feed them for up to 4 weeks in veg, just watch run off ppm and once it drops to 800 begin nute line of choice
Agreed - peat pots no good.
I began these in a “cup”, peat pots of course, because I needed to be able to manage them more easily from my wheelchair, which can’t go in the 27"X tent.
Two plants, or more, in one bag… The BB’s were growing 2 per Jiffy before I separated them ~1week ago. I was told by another (different opinions) to leave them together “they grow together in nature and you’ll still get descent yield…” I don’t care as much about the BB’s - I can put them on the deck soon - Zone 6.5 USA.
I’ll get the WW’s and NL’s in HF+Cultivation Nation later tonight. Just not sure if I should cut-off 1st set of leafs when doing so.
Nothing wrong with peat. You just need to know when to feed, and monitor your ph as with any medium. I use Coast of Maine soil, and peat is the base compound.
As far as transplanting, the size of the pot is up to you and how you intend to grow. I start in small cups about the size you have pictured and pot up twice, with the final pot being 5 gallons. It doesnt have to be that big or it could be bigger, depending on how you grow. It’s also probably not necessary to re pot twice, it’s just the system that has worked for me. I also need to mention that I grow photos, no autos.
If you repot your plants into a bigger pot and monitor your ppm and ph and adjust accordingly your plants will show improvement pretty quick I would think. I dont know much about your light, but dbrn32 can educate you. Inadequate lighting will have a significant impact on your final product. I use only HLG because I’ve never been anything but happy with them.
I’m sure they would grow, but dont confuse quantity with quality.
I should have been more specific - Peat is good, but no more Jiffy Peat Pots.
Here’s a question I’ve been waiting to ask, and maybe I should ask some Auto-growers I’ve met on this forum - how to feed and measure pH in soil? Feel free to post a forum link if you have one handy.I have some pH-Up and -Down, but have never used the “kit” to test pH in soil - only used some pH Down for watering.