I would hang around 83 with me just venting it into my lung room and the home air conditioner set to 75. But now my wife is smelling the flower when she walks in and wanted me to use a carbon filter. So I added a 100 cfm fan to my already 400 cfm due to the length of the ducting, carbon filter added and the bends. I also tied the ducting into my exhaust fan in the bathroom to vent the air out completely from this area. I am not running the bathroom exhaust fan but it’s air tight to it (not sure if it vents while fan is off).
Why are my temps not coming down?? I know anything under 85 is good for led lighting but I was trying get it closer to 80 with everything I just did. Am I doing something wrong? There’s an intake fan that I have running also but I leave some “suction” on the tent walls.
What size is your lung room? I am 100% controlling tent with lungroom now. Lungroom and air exchange. @Myfriendis410 is absolutely correct on that filter bottlenecking exchange. Short lining a carbonfilter/6" adjustable fan will help a ton. I exhaust from top with short line directly into lungroom. Room accepts the temp easy and feeds cold from bottom. I like cold so keep thermostats at 69. I have to regulate fan speeds to even get to 80 now. At 75 ambient in the room with full air exchange in a minute you will sit on 79-80. I fought temps years. Exhaust above lights. Draw from bottom vents with screens. Just what works for me using lung room. Everybody knows I am a lazy no gear using guy. Great lights…grin. this is my 5x5. Smaller tent attic vent but exchange is super fast.
I’m concur with @Myfriendis410 and @Bigcbud on exhaust out the top. The only thing I would change is your circulation fan up top. You’re pushing the hot air from up top back down onto your plants.
Move circulation fan to canopy or slightly under canopy level. Leaf stoma are located on the back side of leaves. Let the hot air rise out of your tent. When it gets too hot the stoma will close to conserve moisture in the plants. This will hamper plants uptake on CO2. Respiration may be hampered by excess heat. Move your Govee Hygrometer Thermometer underneath canopy and check a day or two.
I’m glad you commented this it has been the most confusing for me to understand where I should put it, just sucks it would be underneath my light possibly blocking it if I were to do that.
Just a 8x6 walk in closet inside of my bathroom. I think after moving the level of the fans to the canopy and underneath mentioned by late night is going to help. The heat didn’t rise above 83 during the night so I’m pretty happy with the ventilation. This is what it read prior to the carbon filter so the changes must of helped.
I’m just too scared to see what 69 is here in Florida lol
Another thing you can try is moving your grow light drivers outside of the tent (if they are detachable.) a lot of lights come with extra power cord length to allow for this. during the summer I have mine mounted on a small piece of OSB and I just lay it on top the tent. i’ve noticed my drivers get pretty warm once pushed past 65-70% on the dial.
I had the same thoughts a few years ago. I had two small clamp on tent fans one in each tent pointed down at the just below my led fixtures. But in run my air fans, exhaust and circulation, 24/7 to fight the humidity in my DWC hydro grow.
But I kept fighting bud rot and temps inside my tents. So my solution was to open my tents for the last few weeks of flower. I replaced the small fans with 12” fans and placed them at or just below canopy level.
Also I purchased Driver extension cables for my 2 480w led fixtures like @Maurice87 suggested and it has made a big difference on how my plants finish.
What was your humidity? I don’t think I’ll get over 60 or under 50 but I think with the heat it evens itself out with available moisture in the air. Now that you told me to move my fans I feel wayy more confident with the canopy getting good airflow. For a while I was just trying to cool off the drivers like you did.
I emailed spiderfarmer a couple of months ago to see if they have the ability to remove drivers and I think they responded they don’t sell driver extensions so I was confused, I’ll look into that more. You’re also working with a wayyy larger tent than me my fans are so tight in there between the lights and the plants. I wish my ac infinity fan was oscillating because it has 11 speeds to choose from so I have it lightly blowing at the wall. Once it’s legal here I’m going to get a big boy tent lol
Getting your drivers out of the tent will also help you lights last longer. Heat and humidity are the enemy of electronics. The cooler your drivers stay the longer your lights will last.
With hydroponics it can get over 65% pretty quick. I run my exhaust 24/7 and added a second I’ll be using this season with my environmental controls.
Unless it raining out I can keep it at 55% or lower. I am pulling air from the outside so I’m at the mercy of Mother Nature. Keeping the circulation running 24/7 at canopy level help them stay dry. I watch VPD and dew point levels in check.
@Bigcbud , I don’t believe the SF panel lights have enough cord to move the drivers IIRC, sold mine and ordered the bar lights and they have plenty of cord to get outside of tent.
