I’m planning my next grow. Definitely going to run ILGM SLH or Dosi again but probably Some Humboldt PPP or Aequ Slutty Runtz as well.
I’m going to re-ammend my coco and probably add some coco chips I have in the shed. I’m thinking of mixing Green Gro Bio char, Bat Guano, worm castings, sterile straw and myco.
After 4-6 weeks top dress Bat Guano and start feeding with Incredible Bulk bloom booster.
I have some cal mag and silca floating around. I want to transition to full organic but will for sure use it up before exploring a bio available organic option.
I’m curious why you wouldnt want to amend coco. Definitely standing by for some responses on that.
With them amendments it looks like youre building a soil. Where the soil is fed. Instead of in coco where the plant is fed nutes. Soil works well at higher pH, coco and nutes works well lower
That was definitely where I was leaning. It’s what I do for my house plants with great success. Ive never done it for cannabis or veggies though. Figured lean into it since coco really lends itself to aeration and solid drainage.
I never considered i could be throwing the PH all out of whack.
No the pH isnt out of whack unless you try to feed it like what it isnt. So the coco can become a soil conditioner, alternative to peat moss. Yes different water and air holding rates so ratios will change. Peat moss hold less air and more water so now you can use more organic matter ie compost. And then consider perlite vs vermiculite. Gardener Scott on utube got the ratios
I’m back in school right now for Envi Engineering/ Envi Science and find the soil chemistry, and nitrogen cycle stuff fascinating. Being able to replicate healthy peat biology is my goal I guess. Hence simple organic amendments.
I had a lecture last night from a PHD botanist who admittedly sucks at gardening. Dudes focus has been the Nitrogen Cycle coming out of the Mississippi into the Gulf, creating a dead zone. His previous focus was on invasive grasses. Idk, interesting stuff. Ive asked him loads of garden related questions and he straight up tells me how it should work in theory, but says he kills everything he grows haha.
Heres a benefit coco got, I hate to admit favoring moss, anyway peat moss will decay faster and add to the organic matter but makes pH drop. So always fought with lime etc. Which gets disolved or runoff or anyway pH swings. Less problem with coco
One, its not collected off the tundra in the most sustainable way (it can be argued coco isnt sustainable either though)
Two, It always stays so freaking soggy for me. I always enf up over watering it.
Three, when it does dry out, I hate how compacted it becomes. Even hydrophobic at times.
The reason I was thinking about adding straw was so fungi had a good spot to propigate and the carbon it’ll add to the medium. I guess the carbon thing is redundant since i plan on adding biochar.
Welcome to this fine establishment, im on my 6th coco grow. Found growing about 18 months ago. Grow 2 plants at a time for the wife and i.
Found journal, i wanted simple, jacks and coco, doesnt get much cheaper.
Some of the veteran growers, i think it was Low, said, he pulls them out after harvest and transplants another right back on top, no issues, i have done it twice.
Smallest grow was hair under 2 zips, most have been 3 to 4 zips per auto.
We havent learned training yet, then the bigger harvest will come.
I worked at a moss place, three years stacking 6cu ft bags, by hand. 100lbs. Now got quite the grip on me lol. Since its almost my backyard its most sustainable to me. But the trucks roll out of here steady and theres as much moss now…
I believe in organics it’s called diversity not redundancy. I could be wrong but this is my understanding. So for example if you wanted 10% carbon don’t use 10% biochar use like 6% bio char and 4% straw. Redundancy no more.
Ofc idk what the ideal carbon addition would be exactly but again this is just my understanding of what could be done. If I’m
Wrong feel free to let me know!