Late to the party but ride those overamends out. I dont measure always and get some hot girls here and there. I use @Roadsideorganics.ok nutes myself. Just add a week or so before next dress. You ARE a tad hot. Dont see any problems finishing. Here is a pic of a mother I overdid. She is flipped now and will finish just fine.
Thanks @Storm. I’m still learning the lingo. “Add a week or so before next dress” means don’t feed, just plain water, for a week? Nice looking plant though!
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From following this and many other posts on nutes I have found the need to take different better overall photos of my grow. Several reasons.
The vein structures of the pot leaf have specific names and uses. The damage will start with several key indicators such as brown dots edges crinkly or color fade but by the time the leaf damage presents this way a lot of things wrong look the same.
So what do we do? We pay attention to the tiny veins in the leaf structure and look for differences. Does it start from the outer part of the leaf or inner. Purple or red. These seem to point in a direction that makes proper diagnoses possible.
I am still learning and some of the texts are slow as it references chemical and biological processes that I am not familiar with but learning more every day.
From what I gather changes from outside perimeter is fade inside is nutes. Creep up the vein of the leaf is earliest presentation of problems but can also be an environmental issue affecting transperation or PH but these can be ruled out with testing pH and dialing in environment.
Great hobby to stimulate the brain
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Organic top dressed nutes ammend about every 3 or 4 weeks. Water only between. Maybe some silica, but rice hulls added into soil will give that without a liquid product. Since I transitioned my lazy life has gotten much lazier. Organic is EASY!!! with good life, soil, nutes. Lights of course but that should be a priority buy over all other grow equipment. Best advice I can give is save up. Get a GOOD 1 and you are set for 5 years on light.
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OMG I love this post @Pothead64 even if I don’t half understand it.
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I went from hydro failure to soil that I have been using outdoors for 30 years growing food. All organic and other than a small cal def from overwatering it has been pretty smooth. Same situation top dress and then pour organic nutes in flower
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I found dry works for me over liquid. 1 and done feed with weeks in between of just water.
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But it is now growing tomatoes for me @Pothead64 . Kind of wished I didnt have a circle to provide for. I never get a break. Just for myself I could drop to single 20gallon pot plants in a 3x3 2 times a year 
Wait a second, seriously? I use products from a company called BioBizz and their schedule has me giving them 2mls of this and 1ml per litre of that every time I water, i.e., 2-3 times a week. Here’s the schedule for a better visualisation. It’s far more tedious than one scoop, and away we go. (I’m feeding Grow, Top Max and Bloom and the microbes). They say you can use all this simultaneously, but typing this out makes me wonder how the plants aren’t boiling over.
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A lot of organics are multi part for a reason. Most have a carb energy source that could not be mixed at the factory as it would start converting the nutes. In addition some become very basic when mixed and need to be pH adjusted or the organisms you want all die a lonely death never being able to power your pot plant
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Yea. The nute line I use is this pattern. Amend the soil. Perlite, worm poo, worms, nutes, sometimes rice hulls for silica. I use silica blast normally so I can dose that heavy in flower. Builds trichs… Add some life. Cook 2 weeks at least. Plant. 3-4 weeks amend. 2 weeks before flip add bloom mix scraped into top soil. 3-4weeks amend. Harvest. Throw old soil in a bin. Worm poo only since worms still live. Perlite. Amend at half required. Cook. Rinse repeat. All pruning goes back to soil. Organic matter. The worms love it. Only water in between. Strong life gives a larger ph range. 5 gallon pots ok. 7-10 better. 20gallon optimal for me inside. Can do 1 at a time of those with long turnaround. I stick 5-10 for speed.
I mention pot size because of soil LIFE. Us organic folks need strong, vibrant life to process the amends to a very absorbable form for the plants. Small pots wont promote that life. Guaranteed. I do sog clones here and there and 2 gallon pots are work.
Sorry for the novella but I adore organic and I personally think it is a simple way for a home grower. Cheap. Productive. EASY “I am lazy as heck as everyone knows” and stress free if on point with amendments. The life adjust screwups well. Never flush. Ph range in goes up or down 1 point at least. No runoff test, not going to flush, not going to feed. Too much amend. Ride it out.
Easy peasy but knowing basics to grow the soil is going to grow the plant. This is just how i do my perpetual grow. Party on😄
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P.S.
I have shelves full of gear I just dont use anymore. Hundred of dollars sitting idle…lol.
I may have mispoke a bit, and I don’t want to mislead you. I’m new to organic dry amendments and learning as I go. I haven’t gone full organic with live worms and all yet but I think I’m working that way.
I was using synthetic nutes and alway watered to run-off and got to where I liked knowing the numbers. So with organic growing where you don’t have run-off, it’s been difficult for my ocd butt to break the “want to know”
I can’t say what is too hot, or if there is a too hot, when it comes to organic growing. On my last grow, I had two photos going side by side in my small tent, and had amended the soil and fed them the same from day one. But one ended up stalled - nute locked - pH locked - not sure which but I think it was pH - and the only thing I know to do at this point is to flush, even though I know you’re not supposed to flush growing organic. But until I know an altenative… 
…But I wanted to know where the PPMs stand before I started. Got some run-off from both plants, the one that was growing fine was at 5650 PPM, the one that was locked up was at 2890 PPM. I flushed it down to 1300 PPM and she came around about 3 - 4 days later.
While at the same time, I had three autos growing in another tent and couldn’t figure out why only one was fading to light green. Turns out, while learning how much and when to top dress, all three were getting weak on PPMs (found from a little run-off from each) and the light one must have just been a heavier nute consumer. I only have this last one grow using organic dry amendments under my belt so definitely only take what I’m saying with a grain of salt. These other growers got you covered.
Thanks @d-Jawz, very interesting clarification. I’m definitely nowhere near “full organic”. I’m just using these organic nutes; in fact, I didn’t really understand the difference, or that there even was a difference. I bought some kind of starter pack, etc.
I sympathise with you on wanting to know the numbers… While I think I will heed @Storm 's advice and “ride it out” (which I’m taking to mean don’t amend but also don’t flush), I am also so curious to see what the numbers are. Is watering to just a little run off (in order to test PPM) still broadly in the category of “out-riding”? I hope so. Because my aim is use those meter readings to discover if this yellowing, curling, and now brown-spotting of the leaf tissue is deficiency or excess. It’s driving me crazy that I can’t decide, despite looking at loads of examples online.
No doubt this is down to not knowing how to properly look, as someone like @Pothead64 can or does (see their amazing post above), and as many others on here (present company included) also can and do. I just can’t SEE it yet. Reminds me of trying to figure out a magic eye in the 90s. Remember those things?!
Resist the temptation!!! I’m not sure those numbers will help much other than to tell you if they are starving or have enough to eat. Oh, and pH of course. But you can also get these numbers from a soil slurry test. Which is what I’ll probably do in the future if I gotta know. But with the yellowing and brown spotting, do you know what your soil pH is? I tend to find my problem in this area more than any other.
No. I know what my PH meter tells me is going in (I aim for 6.4 and if I get it between 6.2 and 6.6 I just let it be and pour it in.
Can I test the soil PH by getting a bit of run off? Or is that not how this works?
Yes, you can with run-off, but growing organic, you want to avoid any run-off.
For some reason I have not figured out yet, I water my soil with my well water that starts at 5.00 ish pH and after adjusting, I go in at 6.3 - 6.5. But my run-off is always high between 7.1 all the way up to 8.2+. I use FF soils and haven’t read where others who use FF soils have this issue. This is part of the reason I have been obtaining a little run-off, trying to work out this issue. I won’t bore you with my details but I have found that the pH out is higher right after top feeding. I also have found that the pH out varies between brands of nutrients. So far, I have not come across anyone else’s documentation of a similar situation going on.
I’m getting off track here. For some reason, I always want to write the next chapter of my novel every time I post something. 
Oh, thank you @d-Jawz. Is that “electrode” that the guy immerses to get the reading just a normal PH pen, like the one I’d use for testing water+nutes’ PH?
Yes, just your regular pH pen. Or multiple tester that tests pH & TDS (Total Disolved Solids).
I don’t like doing slurry tests myself. I have trouble getting down through the root ball to get some soil from the bio-zone (is that a word?} to get a good soil sample. I have a slender iced-tea spoon for this purpose but still don’t like it. I splurged and bought a soil pH tester made by Bluelab. It only test pH though, no TDS or salts.