Nutrient Deficiency Identification

I am having trouble identifying the health issues with my plants. I consulted Bergman’s plant care guide but nothing really looked like my issue of either nutrient deficiency or pest. If it’s a deficiency it could be more than one. Or a combination of nutrient deficiency and pest. But the only pest I see are a few gnats.
Please help. I attached some photos





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brown/dead tips remind me of salt damage.

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How ild are the plants

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Looks like buuuuurnnnntttt tips. Back off you nutes about 1/2 and see if it clears up.

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Resembles a Potassium deficiency Grow Bro, what was the last run off PH. If you’re feeding routinely most deficiencies are PH related :love_you_gesture:

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Spot on Brother, those orange brown stripes in the leaves are PH related 95 percent of time.

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Start from the beginning. What medium are you in? [Soil, promix coco]
What nutrient line do you feed? Fox farm, bergmans, advanced, jacks]
Do you have a PH meter?
Do you have a parts per million [ ppm] meter?
Is this an autoflower or a photoperiod plant?

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Thanks. Will check my next run off PH

Answer these simple questions the best you can.
If you do not know, or do not use something; Just say so; Or post
NA (non applicable)

-What strain, Seed bank, or bag seed (photo or auto)
-Age of plant
-Method: Soil w/salt, Organic soil, Hydroponics, Aquaponics, KNF
-Vessels: Type and capacity of container (fabric, plastic, etc)
-PH and TDS of Water, Solution, runoff (if Applicable)
-PPM/TDS or EC of nutrient solution if applicable
-Method used to measure PH and TDS
-Indoor or Outdoor if indoor, size of grow space
-Light system List brand and wattage/spectrum
-Actual wattage draw of lights
-Current Light Schedule
-Temps; Day, Night
-Humidity; Day, Night
-Ventilation system; Yes, No, Size
-AC, Humidifier, De-humidifier,
-Co2; Yes, No

If growing Hydro some additional questions:

-DWC? RDWC? Autopots? Ebb and Flow? Other?
-Distance of liquid below net pot (DWC)
-Temperature of reservoir
-TDS of nutrient solution
-Amount of air to solution

Always try to upload a clear picture in white light of any issues you may have to allow the community to assist you.

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Thank you for your advice thus far with your list of questions to help the community better assist me. I believe I’ve covered everything you asked.

-What strain, Seed bank, or bag seed (photo or auto):

Feminized, from seed, Photo. 12 Plants total – 4 tops/colas per plant = 48. Minimized side branches just to have a garden full of tops. Yet, I let some side branches form here and there if room provided. Front right plant for example. Front left, no side branches typical example. I could have filled the space with 2 huge plants with lots of branches but that takes longer and less variety. And God forbid one gets serious health issues or dies.

6 Strains in this garden:

1 - White Widow (Sativa) – (It’s the 4 tops back right corner. Biggest plant)

3 – Lemon Zkillez (Sativa)

2 – Purple Kush (Sativa)

3 – Captain Junky (Indica)

2 – Glookies (Indica)

1 – Gorilla Sherbet (Indica)

I know that 6 varieties in a 2.5’x4’ garden sounds ridiculous but had some seeds and added to them so I chose different varieties. I usually do 6 of one indica variety and 6 of one sativa variety in the same garden every 12-14 months depending on how long the stash lasts us :slight_smile:

-Age of plants:

Germinated 11.25.24

Cut lights to 12/12 on my birthday 02.13.25

Currently 4.5-5 weeks +/- into flowering? I count the start of flowering to be 10 days after lights are on 12/12.

-Method: Soil w/salt, Organic soil, Hydroponics, Aquaponics, KNF

I call it my hybrid organic / hydro method. 1 part perlite, 1 part Bio-Fiber from Home Depot. I tried a truer hydro 50/50 perlite and vermiculite but it was so unstable I had to stake like crazy and had to water a lot more often. Now only one stake needed so far. But they’ll start to get top-heavy and need more stakes.



-Vessels: Type and capacity of container (fabric, plastic, etc)

(12) 1.5 gal. plastic waste baskets from the dollar store $12. Elevate pots on blocks as needed to maintain somewhat even canopy height. I also train tops to maintain somewhat even height all the way up to flowering.

-Nutrients:

Strictly Advanced Nutrients – Micro, Grow, Bloom. According to label, 4ml / liter with Advanced N. Sensi Cal “Cal Mag” 2 ml / liter. I make up 5 gal. at a time. Lasts for about 2 waterings.

-Watering Schedule:

When the pots get light, but not completely dry, I carefully water with the nutrient solution until runoff. At this stage it’s about 28-32oz. every 4-5 days. Never straight water until the last couple weeks to flush before harvest.

-PH and TDS of Water, Solution, runoff (if Applicable)

Water PH = 7.25+/-, Solution PH = 6.5+/-

Latest Runoff PH = 4.5 YIKES! There is my problem! What to do?!

-PPM/TDS or EC of nutrient solution if applicable

Don’t know

-Method used to measure PH and TDS

Not too scientific. No meter. It’s a test kit where you fill a vial with solution, add 4 drops of indicator solution and then compare the color to a color chart. The kit comes with two 12oz. bottles of solution called PH UP and PH DOWN. But it does not have specific instructions. Just says “use sparingly and re-test.” I guess I need to over compensate going over alkaline for a net neutral runoff PH?

-Indoor or Outdoor if indoor, size of grow space

Indoor in the shower. 2.5’ x 4’

-Light system List brand and wattage/spectrum:

Seedlings started under fluorescents. They stay there until tops are snipped and 4 nice branches are established. About 6”-8” tall. I usually have to train the top two branches so the two below them catch up.

Primary fixture: LED Mars Hydro TSL 2000 – 300 watts – Veg. Stage – 400-700nm with (28) 730-740nm diodes (different spec reads 660-665nm 730-740nm 3000-3200K 6000-6500K)? Currently on sale on their website for $199

Supplemental LED Mars Hydro VG80R (red) light bars 80 watts total (40x2) straddling the sides of the TSL for flowering to add extra red during flowering. 650-665nm.

This is my second garden after switching to these LED. In the past I was old-school and used HID. 650 watts HPS for flowering and 650 watt metal halide conversion bulbs for veg. Always read that this change in spectrum is desirable. That the MH keeps them stockier and too much red makes them stretch during veg. Then switch to HPS for flower. Adding more red.

Mars Hydro claims the one TSL fixture is “full spectrum” and good for both veg. and flowering. But I never bought into the concept that just one consistent spectrum for both stages was a good philosophy hence my previous HID approach.

-Actual wattage draw of lights:

Don’t know. Same as above?

-Current Light Schedule:

12/12 (24 hours during veg.)

-Temps; Day, Night:

Day 80-81F, Night 72-73F

-Humidity; Day, Night

Day = 43-45%

-Ventilation system; Yes, No, Size

20” box fan on the bathroom floor aimed into the shower room for circulation. I open the window in the bathroom at night for a couple hours for fresh air before I kill the lights. When the lights go out the door to the shower room stays shut and they’re sealed off in the dark for 12 hours.

-AC, Humidifier, De-humidifier,

Home has central AC. And there is an AC supply grill in the grow space

-Co2; Yes, No:

No

Hi,
I added detailed garden info below in response to the moderator

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Sorry,
I meant I added info above

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Going to strongly suggest acquiring a decent PH and TDS meter. You’ve got some nutrient excess and looks like a C def. Nothing you do now will make the plants look better once in flower. Leaves don’t improve with a better environment.

Nothing wrong with running a lot of smaller plants in a larger space. Overall I’d say to just ride it out.

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Thanks so much…

I assume a C def is calcium? I figured the cal-mag would more than take care of it? PH problems for sure and maybe too much nutrients…

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This is how my plants use to look in mid to late flower when I was using cal mag. I believe the calcium was blocking the potassium. I stopped using calmag and started giving only the magnesium [epsom salt] and stopped having the problem. My suggestion is stop calmag and start half teaspoon epsom per gallon with your feed.
Another thing do yo adjust your ph. To lower it. With advanced nutrients my understanding is that is a no no.

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