Newbie in VA Problem

Please help. 5 gal fabric pot with 4 gals Happy Frog and 1 gal perlite. Includes 1 lb Natural Living Soil mixed into the bottom 1/3 of the fabric pot. No additional nutes added. White Widow Auto Seeds (ILGM) started indoors and transferred outdoors when seeds popped in water. Always under shade cover. Very hot temps, around 95F. Newbie efforts at supplementing RO water with CalMag and then pH up to get between 6-7 pH. Pics at 18 days (today). Looked like nute burn so checked the root pH by runoff. pH = 4.8. Flushed with straight RO water. Please let me know if I am on the right track. Do these dead/dying first leaves need to be removed? What is my next step? Thank you!

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Its young enough you can water with just plain RO water for a while.
pH is hard to check on very low ppm liquid.
Happy frog will feed her for 4 to 6 weeks.
Yes, you can remove the dying leaves now or later.


@godavej Those leaves are yellowing to let you know that the plant is starting to need more nutrients…it would be good to start using vegetative nutes and depending what brand ya might wanna start out at half strength so ya really don’t fry em…just keep watching your leaves they’ll tell you what your plant wants before anything else

Also consider looking around and learn about possible leaf deficiencies you might encounter that will ultimately allow you to grow a healthy plant

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Did those bottom leaves ever touch the soil? I’ve seen that before when I went to water and the bottom leaves were touching my soil.

If you want nute advice, jacks ,321 easy to use.


This is normally true, but the cotyledons are still there and those get consumed first when they need food.
Never had to feed happy frog soil till about week 6 on a healthy plant.


Nature’s living soil will take an auto to harvest I would just water no calmag unless you see a deficiency once it starts to flower some compost tea

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Thanks, all. The leaves never touched the soil. Additional background, the runoff water ppm measured 2800 with my TDS meter.
So…I will give some half strength veg nutrients until the Nature’s Living Soil begins contributing. Does the soil need to dry out from the flush prior to feeding? Thank you!

My outdoor auto struggling as well with the heat in NC. Not much to do about it even in shade that ive found? Been 90 in the shade even so…

Heck my indoor auto not much better, so maybe its me and autos. My photos indoors are good though at 25 days old.

The auto is in the middle, and only 4 days younger than its photo room mates.

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Oh and welcome to the forum. You will learn a ton here. I learn something new and important every day.PR first real grow and 2x4 grand opening

I’m in Montana and my wwa are struggling with the heat

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Ocean forest will feed for 4-6 weeks, but I don’t believe hf will. You can search all that info on here. That’s what’s so cool about it. Good luck!


2800 is high, that’s nute burn, you can see it in the tips of the leaves. Sorry I didn’t see that sooner

Yes, girls do well in a dry to wet cycle. Over watering is the biggest factor to failed grows. Leaves will drop down when thirsty typically.

Well, now I am struggling. Reading these replies, my first impression was a nutrient deficiency, but now the symptoms are thought to reflect an excess. Is that due to the Nature’s Living Soil in the bottom 1/3 of the pot? Now that I flushed the plant, do I wait until the soil dries and then add nutes or simply wait it out?

Wait until the soil dries…then water…then wait another week and straight water…wait another week…then try half strength nutes again…this should be 3 weeks to assess and manage anything that might arise…time frame will vary based on how healthy the plant wants to be :wink: don’t worry go slow…when in doubt make them go without

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I suggest you go to nature living soils website and read buy adding nutrients and flushing you are wasting the 50 bucks you paid for it they don’t even want you to ph the water

I skimmed the first part… but want to address the first issue. You were on your way to fantastic results with very little work. Then you started using calmag with a living soil halfway amended to a super soil. Most calmag is really hard on living biomes. The nature’s way at 33% is also enough to throw the dolomite in happy frog out. So then it becomes solely up to the biome to regulate ph. This is why if I ever go back to soil it’ll be like before, happy frog with little extra perlite, nothing else besides nutes in the water. (There’s also oyster hulls in it for ph buffer aswell, it’s just not as effective and I attribute the buffering capabilities largely to the dolomite and biome before the hulls.)

This is exactly how I’m growing now…Happy frog soil with some dry amending and liquid nutes…seems to be just fine…have yet to have deficiencies and haven’t used cal-mag either….I did add some of our own compost at the very bottom of each hole dug for the plants…seems to be just right…it’s rained so much I haven’t really had to do anything the past month n half

Same as my soil except I use granular myko in my holes. Both still adding beneficial microbes. Whats really crazy is how different one cal mag is to the next. I did buy an organic one but have since stopped using it once I introduced tribus.

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