Can somebody tell why the outer leaves are lighter than the center?? My other seedling under exact same conditions is normal.
Indoor grow using earth dust dry fertilizer.
New young tender growth for leaf crown center, would be my bet. ask again next week.
Leaf edges, PH in you said, but PH out and PPM is important. Little dark on soil color, Overwatering or too much water ( I do, always)?
Fellow earth dusters… im alittle confused with the instructions to always keep the dirt wet/moist to keep the soil alive but also been told to avoid overwatering almost keep the dirt almost dry during seedlings stage??? Any advise there would be as mind soothing as a first toke of the day
Pretty sure the difference is between potting soil and living soil. I think with living soil you let it dry some between waterings but not as much as potting soil.
Dang on, not even 24 hrs after that pic I discovered these lil buggers/ spidymites. Plus tons of fungus gnats already. Yea I did just spray them, I’ve got three varieties of bug killer’s from my last grow. Who said growing weeds was easy???
I bought nematodes that eat fungus gnat larvae to add to soil when I got them. Sprayed with jack’s dead bug too, and they went away. As far as spider mites go, call an exorcist.
Keep the soil moist. Always. The girl should be fine. Earth Dust does not show deficiencies or recoveries as fast as nutes. Issues appear slower and recover slower. You are ok right now. I would not stress yet. I get the same thing on some plants when young. Just watch her. Do not stress runoff numbers. Your ph is good in at 5.5-about 9. If she got dry take 2 tblsp base and mix in 1 gallon water. Shake and water immediatly. That will give a boost to the microbes. They are water activated and have to use right away. Patience. Different type of grow.
I’m still only a few weeks in. The last few days ive only given about a quart of molasses tea, because it’s been rainy. Before the rain, tho, i gave about a quart a day. My soil cooked for 3 weeks. But I’ve not had any problems. Quite opposite. I have a 4wk old auto in it, no signs of flower, and it’s bigger than any auto I’ve grown, before flowering. If it stays course, it will be the biggest auto I’ve grown.
I don’t know if it is different with Earth Dust but I have always treated peat as hydro for ph purposes. That is ph water (in my case with nutrients) to 5.8 - 6.0.
Just want to clarify for OP. @MeEasy is the most accomplished earth dust grower I am aware of
this is what TGSC says about how to water. I personally never allow my soil to dry from 2 to 4 weeks before I plant until I harvest, then I keep it moist until I’m ready to use it again. So I guess I never allow my soil to dry.
The best way I’ve heard it described is think of it as a scale from 1-10 one being dry ten is soup you want the soil to stay between 4 and 7 this allows the bacterias and fungi to stay alive and processing the organic material every time they are slowed in any way it slows the food available to the plants
Thanks for the tag @beardless I can’t find who was asking about ph or what kind of soil they’re using. I personally haven’t checked the ph of my soil in like 2 years the soil ph will be adjusted to what the plant is saying to the soil
Copy paste from my notes
“Living soils are full of insects and micro-organisms that feed the plants – they require horticulturalists that understand how to maintain them,” Grossman said. “They need far less water and don’t result in waste like the synthetic cultivation methods. It’s far more complicated than feeding a chemical cocktail, but it’s how plants naturally take up the nutrients needed to grow.”
The living micro consists of Bacteria and Fungi that in turn attract Nematodes and Protozoa who eat them (for their carbon) and poop out the excess nutrients (diverse and abundant) in a plant usable form. The extrudate mix from the plant attracts more of what it needs to grow. The plant is in control
ph is not a worry with organic, living soils. What happens is that the plant roots give off exudates that attract appropriate microorganisms to the rhizosphere (root zone). All of these microorganisms adjust the ph for the plant
I wanted confirmation, on behalf of the OP, if 6.8 is the correct ph even though peat is used. Peat is considered to be hydro and treated the same as coco for ph purposes. i.e. ph all inputs to 5.8 - 6.0.
Much appreciated if you can answer this question.
Thanks
I honestly don’t know the answer I’m not familiar with using peat except the plugs I use to pop seeds. I read the description on it and it seems to me to just help with the bacteria health in the roots. That doesn’t tell me to change and or worry about the ph going in because if there’s a more healthy micro life it would be easier for it to manage the ph of the soil.
That’s just my logic and thinking because I honestly don’t know.
I will email Matt at TGSC and ask on your @Jerdan03 behalf. He normally gets back to us pretty quick, today is Sunday though so it will be a couple days. I’m curious on this one if for nothing else having the answer to help the next person
this is what TGSC says about how to water. I personally never allow my soil to dry from 2 to 4 weeks before I plant until I harvest, then I keep it moist until I’m ready to use it again. So I guess I never allow my soil to dry.
I can’t find who was asking about ph or what kind of soil they’re using. I personally haven’t checked the ph of my soil in like 2 years the soil ph will be adjusted to what the plant is saying to the soil
on this one if for nothing else having the answer to help the next person