Photos outdoor don’t start to flower until the beginning of August. Earliest you will see a harvest is mid to late September unless you are planting autos.
I grew some beautiful White Widow auto plants last year. I had to harvest both early due to bud rot. This year I plan on planting in fabric pots and shelter them at night. That might help with bud rot.
@aaa I believe the concern is that getting a photo to full harvest in MA is tough because of the rains and temperamental weather in Oct. With Autos you could have the harvest complete before the weather sets in.
I grew both autos and photos outside last yr in mass. The autos were WW and in aug i was fighting bud rot with them but the photos were GSCE and i harvested in oct with very litle rot issues. I think the autos had issues cause if the dense foiliage and with all the rain and high humidity it was a loosing battle. The foiliage on the cookies was much more spread out so the buds were able to dry out. These were all in the ground. I’m gonna do just autos this yr in fabric pots so i can shelter them if needed and also defoiliate more as well.
@James68 i didn’t realize that it can get into the plant through a wound, i thought it was only airborn. What I’m a litle confused about is if it gets into the wound lets say a lower cut off fan leaf does it just attack the wound area or does it travel through the plant and to the flowers?
@WickedAle, I was thinking that having the photo mother and clones on a dramatic veg light cycle (18 + hours) would then trigger them to go into flowering once transplanted outdoors and finish earlyish.
@raustin is right also in the morning time is the best time to water, that’s when the plants stomatas are opening which means they will take on full advantage of the water, during mid-day it’s the hottest part of the day so the stomatas start closing, which then means it stops taking water and holds what water it has and uses it in the increments it needs.
When it’s hot that than comes down to evaporation pressure. The hotter it is the higher the evaporation pressure is, which means they will drink more water and uptake more nutrients as well as carbon dioxide. When it’s cooler the evaporation pressure is lower which means they will drink less and take nutrients in at a slower rate as well as take up carbon dioxide at a slower rate.
However I do disagree with @raustin about watering right before night, if watering, water atleast 5 hours prior to lights shutting off. This is because plants are more prone to getting diseases or fungus’s around the root system, also makes them more prone to getting powdery mildew. At all costs avoid watering right before night fall.
In flower is the most crucial time to avoid watering before the lights shut off because the plants are more suceptable to getting powdery mildew, always water when the lights come on or in midday never before night fall , duely noted stomatas are at their fullest potential and most use in the morning when lights come on
Hope this helps explain a little better as well as clarifies the watering information
Jealous of your greenhouse!! The wife and I always talk bout building one off the house, we’re big veggie and flower gardners as well. I try to water in mirning but with work and all its not feasible all the time.
@WickedAle, understood. I had posted that putting the clones or seed plants out June 1st would work.
Summer solstice is June 21st(longest day). In my opinion the 20 days of increasing daylight hours would not effect the plants ability to flower and stay in flower.
But for the sake of argument if you had clones on a 24 hour light cycle, moved outdoors on June 21st, they would go into flower and finish without reveg.
Alternately, I have Afghani plants that have been outside for 3 1/2 weeks( vegetative indoors for 1 month) and are in full flower. I am of the opinion that that will finish before reverting. So I’ll be updating my grow journal to see if I’m correct!