About $220. Had a few gift cards to throw at it which eased the pain. This one has 3 switches for the R,B and White bands. My 300 doesn’t have switches, but is dimmable, so I’m pretty happy with the versatility I have moving forward. Currently running all red lights in the T-5. When I first set up in August I was thinking I would be all set with that one T-5. Lol, that was a serious newbie move
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If you find that you are going to continue to grow and grow indoors you may want to consider an upgrade to your lighting. We have a diy thread on lighting and while it’s long, it’s got a lot of good information. One of our forum members lives for the lighting and helps us when he’s able. I strongly urge you to look at that before spending any more money on lights. That said: I would have done the same thing you just did and it will make a huge difference.
Another suggestion if you are concerned about heat is to go to something like MH/HPS or LEC’s for your primary lighting. Using one of these will bring your temps up when they are on.
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I’ve recently been reading more in the lighting threads. Where I live we are allowed to have four in Veg and two in flower. I currently only have room for a 3x3 tent, so am constricted to single grow. In time I will carve out space for small veg room. A buddy of mine would be able to build some awesome lighting systems, but even he is stuck in ok lighting crowd at the moment. I can’t remember what the light was, but when I was first setting up a guy at a local grow shop was trying to sell me a 4’ LED system that from a distance looked like a single ballast fluorescent (still curious what it was), for $900, knowing that I had 3x3 tent. I pointed out that yes I could fit it in there, but not very effectively or efficiently. It did look like a nice set up though. He had it only a couple inches above plants in his store.
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I had a bunch of the blurple lights and early this year replaced them all with a diy “strip” build. They are generation 1 Bridgelux EB strips affixed to aluminum heatsink material. I halved my power output and increased the light on my plants. My space is 4 X 6 and the whole thing cost around $600 but I had the aluminum for the heatsinks.
Post #990 shows the lights fairly well. Took minimum electrical skills and some ability to drill and cut aluminum straight but other than that…pretty easy. Our lighting guru is playing with some quantum boards which might become available at some point in the near future.
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COPY/PASTE: This “Support Ticket” into your forum post.
Answer these simple questions the best you can.
If you do not know, or do not use something; Just say so = NA
Strain; Type, Bag seed, or NA: clones from friend’s ILGM AK-47 (cuttings taken early in flower, established and transplanted to 5 gal buckets, moved indoors Aug 29th
Soil in pots, Hydroponic, or Coco? pro mix potting soil, personal compost (well composted) vermiculite, plus tablespoon of organic soil booster. Photo of nutrient analysis below.
System type?
PH of runoff or solution in reservoir? currently 7.1- 7.2, but was 7.4 prior to flush on Friday Nov 2.
What is strength of nutrient mix? EC, or TDS: TDS meter on order, arriving in couple days
Indoor or Outdoor: Indoor
Light system, size? 300 W LED with 130 actual W, 600 W LED with 185 actual W and 2 foor T-5 with 96 W
Temps; Day, Night
Humidity; Day, Night: upper 50’s to low 60’s at night, mid to upper 60’s to mid 70’s during day. Has been challenging to regulate
Ventilation system; Yes, No, Size: monkey fan, plus 6" inline exhaust to carbon filter (don’t have power or filter capacity at moment.
AC, Humidifier, De-humidifier: no
Co2; Yes, No: No
Add anything else you feel would help us give you a most informed answer. Feel free to elaborate, but short, to the point questions and facts will help us help you smile
First photo from Oct. 29th, a little over 2 1/2 weeks into flower. That day I gave heavy feeding of FF Big Bloom. 2nd and 3rd photo from this morning, after flushing on Friday due to concerns of nute lockout. Leaves had gone dark dark green, even new growth. Not sure that flushing mid flower is good idea, but was also concerned about health of plants. Flush was on NOv 2, and so far no feeding as of Nov 5th. Any advice? As you can see from support ticket, don’t have TDS meter yet, but one should be arriving by 7th.
Thank you all!
Are you asking about that yellowing at the bottom? If so try to get a better photo showing more of it. Lower leaves yellow first as she eats the nutes she needs from them. You said her pH was 7+. Need to get that down so she can eat what u feed her and not herself. Needs to be closer to 6.5
Not so much lower leaves. The whole plant just got very dark, and was starting to see some nute burn. Yeah, even after about 18 gal per plant of ph 6.5 flush last Friday, still registered at 7.1 this morning. That’s down from 7.4 during flush on Friday. Think I need another flush? I just watered with 6.3 this morning.
Did you feed again after her flush? 18 gall per plant should have been enough to flush her out… the closer to correct pH the better access to feed she would have. Let me poke some real knowledgeables.
@Countryboyjvd1971 @Niala @raustin
So u flushd to her down from 7.4 to 7.1 (they gon tell u get it lower and in range) and now getting lightly burnd tips and deep dark green.
Here’s a better photo. This discoloration and dark green kicked in last week a day or two after adding bloom nutes. Overall no new damage since flush. I haven’t fed since Friday, as I’m not sure if I will start to burn it again if I feed while PH still in 7.1-7.2 range. Need to flush again? I watered them each close to a gallon of 6.3 this morning
Your Ph is still too high, try to get it down to 6.8 minimum.
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Will do. Should I go lower than 6.3 for flushing water? If I flush again today, how long to wait before feeding bloom nutes?
If you can get the Ph down to 6.8, then go ahead and add bloom nutes right after the flush.
At 7.1 I would flush at 6.0, just a couple of gallons should get it down to where you want it.
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Will do, thank you!.
Is that room chilly? May just be fall shades showing
could be. When temps dropped two weeks ago, was having hard time getting out of upper 50’s, then followed advice and added fish tank water heater in 5 gal bucket. Last week temps rose again, so room jumped to upper 70’s. turned heater off, so of course outside temps went back down. hovering low to upper 60’s in tent right now. That might explain, but PH issue is certainly a problem. In middle of flushing one plant right now, and over 5 gal later of PH 6.0 flushing water and I’m still hovering right around 7.1. In fact PH rose up to 7.4 mid flush. There is something in the soil causing issues.
Has to be. Someone else just had this exact issue. What are you pH’n down with? And what type of soil? @blackthumbbetty do you remember the person who had this issue? Flushing not holding? I believe he keep drifting back around 7.4 too
Actually using PH up and down now, no longer relying on vinegar 
. Soil was pro mix with compost from my garden, but on Friday after flush I needed to recover roots, and all I had was a bag of moodoo potting soil (composted cow manure and chicken droppings.) I didn’t use much, just a couple handfuls per plant, but I know sometimes that potting soil runs a little hot. Update on flushing, I have both of them down to 7.0. The second one held fast at 7.1, never spiked like the first one. No more time to flush today, so figuring out whether to add bloom nutes at 7.0
Yea. But dont pH ur nute/feed to 7. Go in at 6 - 6.3 with it. Not sure if u should go full strength or ease her. Wait for Ms R on that.
Thanks. I gotta run now, and won’t have chance to water or feed for a few days. I think I will feed reg strength for now at PH 6.0, see how it shakes out in a few days. I expect it will prob take a week or so for budding to get back on track, what do you think?
Promix has lime in it, which can make the pH swing up to 7ish. Are you using rain/distilled/ro water? That can cause pH issues in Promix, too.
Next feed, pH lower to try to get your runoff down. Why would you pH your bloom nutes to 7.0 if you’re trying to lower your pH?
For an emergency flush, you can go down as low as 4.5 to get your runoff pH where it needs to be. Then, make sure you stay on top of it so it doesn’t need another er flush. 