Leaves curling upwards?

Hi. I have northern lights xxl auto growing in coco using canna coco A&B it’s in week 7 of flower, everything has been going great until this week. I use the smart basin watering things. Is this nute burn? If so should I cut the nutes in half?



Thanks for your insight.

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Those look really really good. Slightly on the darker green side. This late in the game they don’t require as much nitrogen. I always cut back on the nitrogen in week five myself. I’ve had the curled up leaves before and it was always a hungry issue that fixed mine. (I slightly raised their food)

I definitely think they’d benefit from less nitrogen. As for a definite answer on the curling I’ll let somebody else chime in.

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I always assumed it was heat or light related when mine do this at the end of flower, i have faxtailing first followed by my leaves looking like this. Could be wrong tho

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I don’t have much to say, except that they are very pretty, it’s my understanding that you should stop all Nutrients in the last 2 or 3 weeks of Flower, and that in the last weeks of flowering your leaves will curl and yellow. Those are the things I’ve gathered from the forum and other sources.

Look just a touch hot on nutes to my eyes. Nitrogen was mentioned and are a bit green. Also what is canopy heat from light? Cannabis can almost take as much light as can be given. Canopy heat is more of an issue than too much light itself. I also see some leaf stress when I do old man over ammend. Spacing out and ammending a 5 gal pot with 10 gallons worth of nutes. To be honest I would just keep on trucking and lose some N. You are far in. They will finish just fine.

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Hey Remrac,
First of all the girls look great and second i agree with Storm. Looks like a little nute burn. Another person who commented here said that you should only give the girls PH balanced water for the last 3 weeks…I don’t agree with that. If grown in soil then i usually give them 10-14 days (usually 10) and on the first day of PH balanced water along with some Clearex rinsing solution, next watering is PH balanced water with a bit of unsulphured molasses (2 tablespoons per gallon) and then just straight ph balanced water which i run 10 to 15 gallons of just ph balanced water and then check the runoff to ensure your good.
PS: where did you get the Northern light seeds from?..The same vendor im guessing alomg with them coming in the same pack from the seed bank?
Just asking because I too am running 3 NL autos and they look different from each other…one looks completely different and one of them looks like it did a bunch of steroids…all three in the same size pot, same soil and same nutes.

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Nitrogen toxicity, possibly heat. What was the last run off PPMs. For soil grows and synthetic fertilizer a drench to drought routine is recommended with liberal run off and testing of the PPMs and PH Growmie :love_you_gesture:

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Plants grown from seeds will rarely look identical unless they were F1s or better :love_you_gesture:

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I can see the nitrogen being a problem, Wish i didn’t just feed them before i created this. Cant be heat because i have been keeping it at 70 degrees. and my light is as high as i can get it in the tent. I do keep the PH between 6 and 6.5, although i must admit i don’t check it every feeding as its been the same amount of ph up every time i do check it. I really need to do some reading on the PPMs because that is foreign to me. I use the self watering bases so i also don’t get any run off. Is there a different alternative for those that use these bases?

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I got these particular seeds from seedsman they are Northern Lights XXL Autos. came in a tin case. Id have to look when i get home to get the name of the company.

Edited to remove unauthorized link

The PH should be adjusted to 6.5 for the initial mix and the PPMs adjusted between 800-1000. You can periodically check the PH in res their setting in and adjust accordingly. It’s my assumption the PPMs are really high and the PH is low in the root zone. I would recommend pulling these from the bottom wicking tray and run straight PH water at 6.5 from the top, water them to liberal run off and check the PH and PPMs, these 2 numbers should be between 6.3-6.8 for the PH and PPMs around 800-1200 for soil :love_you_gesture:

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I appreciate the help with this, i have two questions that maybe you can answer. First is what is everyone using to facilitate this runoff. put a big tote underneath and put the pot on something in said tote to keep it up in the air?
Second is if I’m using coco isn’t that considered different from soil since its inert?

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I set my pots on a grate and over a 5 gallon bucket for catching run off. My apologies Ithouhht this was soil. Coco should have a PH of 5.8-6.2 and needs frequent fertigation or a means to remain damp :love_you_gesture:

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Awesome idea. I used the grate from the self-watering base over a 5 gallon bucket and pow runoff.
Okay so I ran a gallon of just water w/ PH 6.45 through the coco and measured the runoff and it was 4.25!
So does that mean I’m in nute lock out?
Should i keep doing this until it comes through the runoff of around 6.5?
Do i have to worry about drenching the bejesus out of the coco?
Ive been using tap water but i let it gas off first should i wait to do more of that or should I just keep going on flushing the water through?

I know, that I know nothing being my first grow, of course I just had thought i had gotten the hang of it and then comes my first curve ball. Appreciate all the help.

Yeah that’s low even for coco and preventing nutrient uptake. It’s time for a reset flush and be prepared this can be a time consuming process when done correctly. With the low run off PH I would start with your water source around 7.0 and go slowly. Don’t pour so much in the top that it runs out the side and top. It typically takes 3 time or more your pot size…3 gallon pot can take 9-12 gallons depending on how low or high the starting PH was. I would continue the flush until your PH is in the range of 5.8-6.2 and follow up with a feeding at 800ish PPMs at a PH of 5.8-6.2 :love_you_gesture:

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Definitely had too much nitro by the dark, waxy leaves. The curling looks like it may be caused by too much light. Since your light is as high as it can go, do you have the option of turning the intensity down? What lights you using?

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Sorry about the link didn’t even think of it.

So I turned the light down to 70% I think it’s a 200w it’s the one that comes with the 2x4 ac infinity kit…

I only have so many containers so I’m just flushing it as I can and I’ll keep at it until I see the PH raise. Sound like an okay plan?

So a little update with my problem. Had to have a procedure done and was more or less absent the last 2 days. So this morning I flushed 2 gallons of 7.0 PH water through the coco coir. Still measuring too acidic so i will keep going with that. Its been 3 days of the lights at 70% and the curling isn’t any better. The leaves are more crispy.


is this still the nute burn or are my lights still too high?

Im not sure what my worst case scenario is, looking at the tricomes i think they are mostly cloudy would you agree? Am I a week or two away? Can i just limp to the finish line?



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If the coco was allowed to get dry it’s most likely hydrophobic and full of salts that’ll tank the PH. 2 gallons at different intervals won’t correct the issue Growmie. Have you measured the run off PPMs? This plant could be suffering a few issues, the hydrophobic coco and possibly heat are my 2 assumptions. I would recommend re-setting the coco with a flush at 5.8-6.0 and go slowly. Flush the medium down to 300-400 PPMs and the PH in a range of 5.8-6.2 then follow up with a full strength feed of 800-1000 PPMs. Feed daily or a damp consistency and always to run off :love_you_gesture:

Runoff testing here is key. Never flush coco with plain water, it will mess with your cation exchange rate. Also need to know actual ppfd at canopy. I believe too much light and high runoff is the cause.

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