Done this several times over the years with no issues Brother….its a reset 
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Hey it works for you then cool. But then there would be no need to buffer coco if the case. It could work but i like my coco saturated with calcium.
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Not disagreeing with you, again the purpose of a reset is to start over…calcium included of course along with all the other secondary and macro nutrients
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Right, i prefer my exchange rate optimal. I can archive this at full strength with more feed. If not more frequent fertigation. Afterall, thats the cause in the first place. Never good to just water only coco. Just my opinion
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ive got the runoff to come out at 6.0 PH. but i fear its too late. these things are so beyond burnt. I also turned my light down to 50% its a 200w LED from aci. is that contributing or is this all have to do with me giving too many nutes? Should i let the pot dry out a little before i re feed at 50% of what i was doing? Is this even able to be salvaged? beyond frustrated.
I mean the leaves are just crunchy this thing is so jacked.
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Feed coco daily to liberal run off, it needs to remain damp Grow Bro. Remove the damaged leaves, they won’t recover
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As i said before, you need to know your runoff tds or your just running blind. Can not assist without more info. Unfortunately damage is done and will never look better since your not growing “leaf” at this point.
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I just had an epiphany and now understand the ppm thing. I was over feeding by a factor of 4 based off the directions on the bottle. Just fed 900ppm 6.3 ph and the runoff was 657ppm at 6.18 ph. Those feeding numbers are okay right?
So the flower can still finish even though I destroyed all the leaves? Pardon my ignorance.
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Leaves canoeing up isnt a light issue. They canoe the other way to decrease their exposed surface area when it’s too much light.
They plants got thirsty and are dried out but it’s not salvagable. They’re almost done anyway. Remove damaged leaves so she can put all efforts on buds instead of repairing.
Stop feeding, shes almost done.
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I’ve got the same light and it would have to be right on the canopy at 100% to burn anything IMO. I think ACI rates it at 951ppfd. I think the pros are right on with the nutes.
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So do you think i should turn the intensity back up? Ive got the light right below the exhaust fan at the top of the tent. or being that its this late will it not matter? This whole thing is so confusing its like I’m in school again!
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What i like to do is hit them with 900 ppfd untill the end of week 4. Then i dial back to 800 untill the final week and a half, then down to around 750 to help finish. All the charts ive seen say highest ppfd up to wk6. But i would get fox tailing. One thing i learned through experience, u need to filter all the info u learn and ignore a part of it. Just bc a chart says something does not mean it has to be 100% that way or its just not right. All plants and even same strain can be temperamental and have different needs. Some more feed, some less light, etc, it goes on and on. Some guys run in the 1100 to 1200 range for ppfd…well i never had a plant that needed that, and in fact would cook them. Keep runoff in check with not pushing to hard with ppfd is the key along with a proper environment. Dial that all in and you will have much better results. Each grow and technique will improve your game. Good luck.
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That’s good advice, I keep my light if possible 18 to 24 in. above the canopy (same light as yours) and keep the ppfds in check. I cranked it for a few days on my first grow and after a couple days it was wilting at the end of the light cycle. As it turned out it was to much DLI not heat doing it. From what I’ve learned I never need that light on high. I’ve got it on 9 now but it’s pretty high up and I just did that for flowering.
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