Suggestions on anything accurate or am I left to base it off an average.
@trizzle2011 stick with the pH meter and the TDS meter
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@trizzle2011 have you ever tested the seaweed extracts’ ph? The probe testers never work well. I highly recommend a digital ph tester, which will give you a better accuracy as long as you calibrate properly. The only way to test to see if the seaweed extract has increased you PH, is to check run off, water coming out of the bottom of the soil. I hope this helps.
i use the drops. I may need to venture back to the tester but always like the drops over the tester cause i kinda got that thing down and can when testing with my ph digital tester vs. the drops, it took me longer to aquire an accurate steady reading. and once tested with the drops, i received imediate results. I have researching alot with the seaweed extract, and you can really use it with all your waterings if you wanted. its a solution that can easily be diluted but still provide a broad spectrum of nuets that arent going to over feed them.
I also have come to the conclusion that if my plants need a high level of nitro, then i need to get on a regular water schedule. I have been waiting to see signs of dehydration from the plants but am worried i may not catch it in time. so watering every five days is a good start for me. i will water 2 gallons per pot every 5 days. in that mix, since i am in veg stage. I will be adding a alternating amount of fish fertilizer (oorganic) depending on how my ladies are looking. this grow is my first and i will only find out if i did to much by how my ladies look. in which case i just flush them to clean out excess nuets.
Also, as a fix for my concerns of a to high of a PH soil, here is what i came up with. since my soil before i planted anything was hitting 6’s on its PH. I can assume its my water and nuets which are bumping up the ph a little. in which case it gets to hot, i found a product that is a mix of sulfur and another material (i just cant remember the name). will post photo later. but i found at home depot and its used to make hydrangeas blue and also to lower PH of the soil. You can easily tell theres sulfur by the yellow bead like balls in the mix. to make it disolve better in the soil, i would grind it up in a powder, maybe even add as a supplement to my waterings. many ways to install the ph down material, but you can either rub in the soil or just add to the water. I would most likely make a tea with it. my recipe would be a simple mix of seaweed extract, fish emulsion and powder form of the PH down being airated in a 5 gallon bucket for a day or so. again, thats just one way i would do it.
thats what makes it hard for me to want to change anything since they look healthy. i am going to try and work in a seaweed extract cut with some fish emulsion into a watering cycle every 5 days. my soil remains moist, not wet. so i think i am safe to go on a cycle. the top 2" of soil is dry but right under neath it, i have an even soil consistency all the way to the bottom. so my air circulation is on spot along with drainage. so watering on a 5 day cycle will only replace food for my microbes to then turn into plant food. if i start seeing anything funky, i will just water with plain water to dilute any build ups.
Can you guys let me know if i can post URLs to websites that contain information on soil science and nuet informations? like this. i find it would be benificial and a good read for alot of us. cause its whats driving alot of my logic with my applications
@trizzle2011 as long as it doesn’t link to competing seed sites you should be fine. Also, excellent read. That’s why I use the stuff!
need some reassurance on my ladies. no pics, but i dont think i will need it. so i have 2 main fan leaves on each plant. and both have decay, slightly brown almost dried leaf color. like as if the edges succumbed to fall coloring. heres the catch, since my trunk is only 4" off the soil, they have been on most days, settling/laying their edges have been resting on the dirt. i try and pick them up and support them off the dirt but the new growth just pushs the two fan leaves to the bottom. if you look in older photos, you will see the 2 fan leaves im talking about. could i snip them? their really not doing anything but getting in the way of my manifolds. they also have a purple stem leading to the leaves - but i believe this to be a genetic since they are purple haze and those two fan leaves have always had the purple in their stem. looking at my manifold runs, i can see purple in their veins. i know that can be nuet overload. but my leaves have been very healthy and no other leaf has the decay other than the two main fan leaves. think i should snip them? i did my last topping the other day, ill snap a photo of the growth and just need confirmation on how many colas you think ill get. but to summerize. my two oldest fan leaves (first set that grew from seedlings) are developing what looks like a build of to many nuets causing an overload in the two main fan leaves.
If you guys think i can snip those, my ideology would be that the nuet overload would spread to the rest of the plant. their my largest fans but i have great growth from my topped sections. could be nothing. but thats what i have noticed. again, the decay is only on my two fan leaves that were the OG fan leaves.
Here is a full break down of my grow.
2 viper 450s at 18" from plants
one pot has 5 gallons of fox farm, 4q perlite, 5 gallons of nature care organic composting soil, i beleive i did 4 quarts of dr. earth bud and bloom - the difference between that and the normal dr. earth fertilizer is the potash and nitro is a 1% difference. so no biggy on messing that up.
5/5 gallons of foxfarm and nature care
dry fertilizer - 3-4 liters of dr. nature bud and bloom
couple liters of worm castings
4q perlite (could have done 4.5)
second pot (i fudged up the math and came up short) but i mixed an extra 3 gallons of a walmart mycroizza composting soil - i really like this soil cause it had chunks of mycos that i could break down to a more powder base for easier breakdown. but i still have a fist size chunk of mycos. but thats all i did was cut it a bit further down.
I love admitting mistakes also, and major ones to. i didnt calibrate my ph tester right. i did a stupid and just stuck it in normal tap water and calibrated. its okay, laugh at my stupidity. I know what to do next time. but i know for sure, my ph drop tester works better than what i got. we gotta be between 6-7 for the ladies, that just means making sure my test waters turn yellow when i add the drops. i find myself to be more accurate that way. but im sure i watered with fish fertilizer at a very low ph. but its all good, this is the first time they got water like that so i know on my next watering i will just be watering with a normal solution of 1.5 gallons of 1.5oz of seaweed and water. ppm is 220 on the tap. my last watering came out at 5,600 but thats cause i watered with a heavy set of fish emulsion WEAR GLOVES WHEN USING FISH EMULSIONS.
I also came to the idea that since im doing an organic grow, i want to mix my soil as early as i can. i keep it in an action packer. the soil is doing a good job at composting and putting off its own moisture so i know the soil is very active. the soil i have is 5/5 gallons of my left over nature care and the walmart mycos soil. i still need to pick up some perlite to add air which i may do in a few days but then will also need to pick up a potting soil that is comparable to fox farm. overall its a good soil, i like the culture in it. but always willing to try new soil. but fox farm has a good mix.
over all, thats where i am at right now. humitdy and temp remains at an average of 45-58ah and 65-79 temp. soil temp when measured 4" from the stem is resting easy at 75. today marks week4 of “pregrowth” at this point. i wont be topping any more, rather training the growth to grow the way i want. i forecasted that day1 of bloom will happen once my foliage has reached the perimeter of the pot. their half way right now. and with all the mainlining and topping i have been doing, its been slowing growth from what i understand.
I have been philosophizing about the biology of the stomas. im sure we all understand what are stomas do and what i have noticed is that after re structureing my plants after a day of growth, the leaves bellys are all light side up, which if i am correct, is exposing the stomas t directly to the light. you combine a good humidity and even level of co2 (i just have a 100cfm inline fan pulling air in from outside and a 600 cfm pulling air out via a carbon filter with a box fan pushing all the air around - i will be switching to clip on fans to get a better flow on the stems for stronger development. i should have done this in the start but it is what it is. but in my gut, i feel im getting a very good “food” intake for the plant. everything but my oldest fan leaves are healthy, the outer edges have developed decay which i am assuming is from age and the added factor of the edges of the leaf actually resting on the soil from time to time so i think it may just be one of those things. again, need advisment on whether to trim those off so they arent taking all the nutrients cause they are twice the size of my other fans.
Week 4/“day1” of veg. i declared that a few days ago but oh well.
@Covertgrower
@dbrn32
@VelcroThumb
@Countryboyjvd1971
@Nug-bug
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If the leaves are laying on the dirt then they should be removed.
The moisture will cause decay and disease
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think its worth to put a support under them, im talking about like the very tips just decaying. so if i lifted of the dirt, it would help. any suggestion for a method to lift the leaves off the soil. i personally believe one of two things. either A i stunted them (unlikely) and B the way i had the t10 on the seedlings caused them to not have to stretch, every other Purp haze i see is twice the height during sprouting. now i mainlined them, but had they grown like what i have see, they would be an extra inch to 2 off the soil level. Am i wrong? by mainlining them and training the plant to grow flat and stretch out to the outer reachs of the pot vs. just letting it grow undisturbed till the 3rd node and topping when the plant is about 8"-12" tall.
As long as you can keep them off the dirt, you could support them.
If it’s just the tips is it more than the ones laying on dirt?
If so might be some other culprit
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If they’re over 60% green, they’re still doing something. If they’re on the soil, I would remove them. The top will be fine. @trizzle2011
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i’m good then. not a single leaf but the 2 main fans have the decay on both plants. its almost like a grow flaw, the fans grow under the new fan an terminal but get pushed down. what exactly causes the edges to decay or what causes the decay in general on a leaf that rests on the soil. i am pretty positive that this is a fan resting on the soil issue. ill snag a photo tomorrow and post for future reference. if this was nuet burn or toxic levels present, i would imaging it would be effecting the whole plant. i have been noticing the edge decay, and by edge, i mean the serrated edge of the leave is decaying. everything else is a good loooking green but those edges on the 2 OG fans. my initial seedling leaves (its cyto something for the scientific name) but those leaves have turned yellow and have been going into their shed phase. the main stem has shedded its seedling skin. i noticed this about 2 weeks ago that it was starting to shed its baby skin.
Like i said, ill snap a photo of the fan leafs tomorrow, let me know if they are something you would snip. my novice gut feeling is saying i can snip them and apply a rooting compound? will i get new growth off a fan leaf? other novice mistake i made, i snipped a node, and nipped a fan leaf 
ooops. do i need to snip an entire section that contains a terminal node? I could look this all up but im around folks i cant really be diggin into this with.
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No , there wouldn’t be any chance to clone a fan. Tape up the wound on the nodes you sliced or let it be. It would surprise you at the amount of healing a plant can do
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I agree with @Nug-bug and @Covertgrower. Remove the stuff touching dirt.
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Alright guys, another update.
Summary -
applied tin foil to underneath foliage to maximize light penetration. i will most likely be building on this to be able to better surround the plant like when you grow in a bucket. i tested this with my light meter and proved positive that the tin foil was able to boost light intensity underneath the plant. this is benificial as the stomas are underneath the plant, providing (what i am hypothasizing) a better environment for the stoma to be able to breath - high light makes the stomas breath more.
trimmed my og fan leaves (4) splitted the stem on the leaf and inserted into a normal watering solution - my brain thinking on that is below.
took one fan leaf i accidently cut and transplanted into a water solution of 4.0 ph and seaweed extract. brain thinking below - the fan leaf had been split at the cut site, placed in a normal watering solution for 3 days
trained up the ladies so they started growing in the direction i want them to. in the photos you can make out how they will grow.
Brain logic behind the fan leafs. based on the fact that the leaf i cut 3 days ago didnt wilt or change structure in any way. sooooooo my logic led me to attempt this. I will be creating a water solution of high PH, low PH, Large ppm of seaweed extract in base water solution - these will test and hopefully show the reaction the leaves wil go through, revealing exact characteristics of each imbalance so i can read my plants better. we all know good water, good nuets and good enviroment = healthy plants.
Now, i have also wanted to see about a nuet imbalance or toxic build up and how the fans react to that. so idea there, is i will make a tea, add it straight. but then it comes down to if the leaves are able to absorb the nuets. but if correct, it needs to be tested in soil. so in which case, i would make a liquid solution of measured ingrediants and keep the soil wet so it can absorb better. I would have to prep the soil and water it a week out in order to build up the culture, since the culture is what eats and breaks down the nuets into a plant soluble (edible) material. i would have control tests as well. kinda were my logic is at. could be a waste of time. but failure is our greatest teacher.
@Covertgrower
@dbrn32
@Nug-bug
@VelcroThumb
@Growit
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Hey that’s a great idea all the way around and I really like the foil idea. I might just have to try it.
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I thought about mirrors but i needed to tack my leaves down. plus the foil doesnt sit entirely flat causing the soil to stew under it.
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I noticed the foil tacked down which is smart plus it’s nicely put together and I think your young ladies are going to love it
process on the foil was take a slab, fold in half, cut into a circle shape, cut a slot out for the stalk, cut along folded edge and then you slide the pieces on either side, making a circle. i took my hooks and just tacked in down on either sides to keep it from shifting while i was working. i think one area i can improve on is shaping the direction inwhich the foil is reflecting. right now the dispersal is random and may not be as efficiant. so i think i may actually make a low lying frame. i was thinking i would take shims and tape the foil to two of them, that way i can easily slide them in. only issue is trying figure out how it gets around my tacks holding the plant down. for a traditional grow that doesnt have any thing going in and out of the soild would be great for this one.
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