Having issues with grow lights getting too hot, advice needed

From a fellow grower: I have been using lights such as Spider Farmer LED 2000 (4x2), and before that Mars Hydro 2000 TSW. Both lights eventually (and pretty quickly) get the same problem. These are lights that are not “blurple”, they have dimmers and switches, all running through drivers, and they get VERY hot after 18hr a day (keep in mind, they have no fan). What usually happens is switches and dimmers stop working (veg lights @ 5000k, IR 3000k lights) and eventually it doesn’t seem safe to even have them in the tent. This happens very fast actually and even by design, they always say “50,000 hrs”, though I’ve never gotten anywhere close without the switches and knobs breaking. I now aim a huge fan at my light while I wait for YET ANOTHER. What lights should I use to avoid constantly buying new ones? I have heard HPS etc but I think those are outdated. What are good and affordable lights to buy that will support growth but won’t just burn out? Also electricity usage is always good to lower.

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Can the drivers be removed and placed outside the grow space? I’m an HLG fan and the drivers are removable with an extended cord :love_you_gesture:

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I do this to keep the heat in the tents down.

The 50k metric is the mean time between failure for the LEDs themselves. Each component of a light will have its own MTBF. It can be less for mechanical components such as switches and knobs. These mechanical components reliability is measured in units of on/off cycles.

It’s normal for LEDs and drivers to put out quite a bit of heat. The MTBF metric takes this into account. So long as you don’t have a smell of burnt electronics components it is probably okay.

I run small clip fans across my drivers to help keep down the heat. They still put out the same amount of heat, but some of that heat gets carried away from the drivers by the airflow.

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Good read Brother :love_you_gesture:

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:point_up_2: would get hotter than an LED fixture :love_you_gesture:

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The OP also mentioned electricity consumption. HPS lighting is less efficient and consume more electricity than LEDs will per unit of PPF.

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Another solid consideration :love_you_gesture:

As @MidwestGuy mentioned running a fan blowing over the lights helps a lot cool lights and drivers last longer

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Do you have a exhaust fan? You have to draw heat out of your tent and many of us use a 6" clip on fan to blow air across our light helping with heat soak of the driver and heat sink. Whats the voltage at the electrical outlet you are using. Low voltage means high amp draw which means more heat. There is no such thing as a cheap good light.

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Hlg has very good lighting very efficient runs very cool although any lights going to get hot if you have it cranked all the way up with no ventilation in the tent if you ventilate your tent properly the lights will stay in check most days LG lights come with the five year warranty spider Farmers should have had a couple year warranty if it hasn’t been in that period try swapping it out for a new one sounds like you might have two small of a light in your tent and be trying to crank it too high if you get a light a little larger than you need you can ride at a lower watt which will run cooler just my thoughts hope this helps :v:

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my Marshydro lights have done well for me…I haven’t had any issues with switch or knob failures…currently running FC-E6500 (1 year old) in the big tent and TSW 2000 (2 years old) in the small tent…both lights run all the time except when drying the current crop from that tent.

Led heatsinks and drivers are going to get hot, normal operation. They shouldn’t be failing though. I’m also wondering how air exchange is setup here.

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In one of my rooms i run metal halide in veg and switch to hps for flower and they out perform the hlg and the mars hydro lights but they use a lot of electricity cooling is handled by fan and lights are in cool tubes. That being said they dont last as long as leds. And switching bulbs is a bit of work and ballasts still fail. I do prefer my hlg600r lights over all the other led brands I’ve used.

not by much, & you go ceramic you just cut your bills in half

Are you referring to ceramic metal halide (CMH)?

ceramic is cheaper to run than standard

MH, CMH, and HPS are less expensive from an upfront cost perspective, but LEDs are extremely energy efficient relative to every other commercially available lighting technology. More of the current used in the CMH variety goes toward producing heat versus LEDs.

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I see what you’re trying to do build it within your means the HIDs are good but they can put some damages on the bills I bought 2cheap leds & they ran more than the HIDs I had in my place back in the 90s, going to the hardware store piecing things together a outside light fixture, the aluminum, the space, old ways still works but run a little warmer but overall cost isn’t something that’ll break you, the highest grow light I ever used took an extra 25 bucks a month, you do the math, tells me the cheap leds can take more electricity than the standards but time has passed to ceramic it cost less to run something like from incandescent to leds

This has absolutely nothing to do with my question. It seems once I germinate the seeds and put it in soil to start becoming a plant, My grow light is too hot and drys up the soil close the surface. Having a the grow light 2 inches from the soil not only dries up the soil, but makes the soil near the germinating seed super hot! Am I doing something wrong?

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What light are you using? :love_you_gesture:

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