My QB-324 kit finally shipped…!!! Yea! I need something to assemble! All this custom work is slowing me down! 
LIGHTS OUT!!! Make your own custom door seals!
Adding this here, so the “Free Side” Forum folks can refer to it if need be. It has its own thread on the “Dank Side”. 
As the Lab courses say repeatedly: It is CRITICAL that the grow space be 100% light-proof during dark periods, whether during vegetative or flowering phases.
Some folks use closets or rooms indoors rather than lightproof tents, and interior doors seldom have seals or weatherstripping, so they are notoriously “leaky” to both LIGHT & AIR FLOW. We do NOT want this. It could screw up the plant biology, AND in case of mistaken positive interior pressure OR fan failure, you could wind up with your whole structure smelling like your crop!
I came up with this theory after spending $20+ on adhesive backed weatherstripping and FAILING miserably to completely seal the door to the closet I am converting to a grow space.
THEORY - Use 100% silicone sealant, et al. to create custom door seals.
ISSUES - Silicone sealant sticks to whatever it touches. Without intervention, simply beading the door frame and closing the door will create a PERMANENTLY sealed SHUT door. Useless! 
Thus, we must find a way for the sealant to bind with the door frame, but NOT stick to the door.
MATERIALS - Here is a list of the primary materials that I used to create my custom seals.
- GE Supreme Paintable Silicone Window & Door Sealant (White)
- Vaseline Petroleum Jelly Original
- ScotchBlue ORIGINAL Painter’s Tape, Multi-Use, 0.94-Inch by 60-Yards
- American Safety Razor 65-0502 Single Edge Razor Blade Dispenser with Aluminum Back Blades, 100-Pack
https://www.amazon.com/American-Safety-Razor-65-0502-Dispenser/dp/B0035ER29A/?tag=greenrel-20
- MG Chemicals 824-1L 99.9% Isopropyl Alcohol Liquid Cleaner, Clear, 945 mL (1 US Quart)
https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-824-1L-Isopropyl-Alcohol/dp/B005DNQX3C/?tag=greenrel-20
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Lint free cloth
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Roll of paper towels (or other disposable wiping material)
PROCEDURES - Here are the basic steps to producing the seals.
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Use the 99% isopropyl alcohol and lint free cloth to clean the areas of the door frame where you will be applying the bead of 100% silicone sealant.
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Mask off the inside face of the door using the blue painter’s tape to restrict the area of petroleum jelly application. About 1-1-1/2" from the edge should be sufficient. (See image below)
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Carefully and COMPLETELY apply a thin layer of petroleum jelly to the face edge areas that you just masked off. Additionally, apply a thin layer to the ENTIRE widths of the door edges, top, and both sides (the entire perimeter). Really massage it in to make sure you get full coverage, especially if there is exposed wood grain. Focus on the edges where there might be end grain exposed. Wherever you FAIL to get full coverage, the silicone will stick to the door… Not good!
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Apply a bead of silicone sufficient to bridge the gap between the door and the door frame. You want it just big enough that it creates a good seal at the edges with minimum squeeze out, but too small and you WILL have seal voids and leaks! NOTE: You should know about how big the gap is, because BEFORE you started this, you closed yourself up in the closet and observed the door to frame fit with the lights out… Right? (See image below)
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Make SURE you have everything out of that closet you are going to need for a while!!!
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Now, slowly begin closing the door and use minimum pressure until you just barely hear/see the door latch slip into the striker plate. If you push it too far, you might squeeze out too much sealant and cause voids/leaks when it cures.
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WAIT. Wait some more. Wait even more!! You must wait until the silicone is COMPLETELY cured. And because the area exposed to air is minimal thanks to the petroleum jelly, et al., this process will take at least TWICE what the label states for cure time… In my case, the label said 24 hours, and I waited a FULL 48 hours.
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After cure time expires, gently open the door. Turn door knob fully and slowly increase pulling pressure until door pulls free. IF your petroleum jelly coverage was complete, it should not take more than about 20 lbs of force, and it will pull free without damage to the door face.
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Using a single edged razor blade, trim the squeeze out where it protrudes into the door opening (if any).
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Inspect the new seal for voids. Go inside closet with lights off, and examine the entire perimeter. It will be apparent IF and where the leaks are. Mark them, if any, with a pencil on the door frame. Repeat steps 3-8 with a supplemental bead of sealant in the leaky areas. NOTE: Be SURE to clean the seal WELL with 100% isopropyl alcohol before applying supplemental silicone bead, or the new bead will NOT stick to the first one!!! You’ll just make a mess and have to clean it up and repeat.
Congratulations! You now have a COMPLETELY air and light proof seal around the sides and top of the door. You still need to address the BOTTOM edge, which on most interior doors does not have a threshhold.
- Use one of these: Twin Draft Guard Energy Saving Under Door Draft Stopper
I use one like this one. It has a fabric sweep cover, BUT…
THIS ONE, I just found has a vinyl cover that MIGHT be better from a sanitation and mold prevention perspective. I don’t know if it would be as effective in light/air blocking.
Now, these things work well, but they are “universal” for multiple width and thicknesses of doors, so it is LIKELY that the inserts are not of sufficient diameter to accommodate the thinner door thicknesses of most interior doors. I removed the original foam rod cores, and inserted larger diameter black, closed-cell, pipe insulators. Mine were split down the length with liner-covered adhesive to seal them shut. I simply cut them to length and sealed them shut to assist them in maintaining their shape. The rod lengths may be a little different between inner and outer. The inner must be short enough to clear the door stop strip, but long enough to block the light. The outer rod MAY be a little longer to assist in blocking light better.
They make all kinds of diameters of this stuff. For the INSIDE, choose the MAXIMUM diameter that will fit into the pocket. For the OUTSIDE rod, choose a diameter that will make the sweep fit snugly against the door faces so that it will stay put when opening and closing the door.
Here’s the type of stuff I used to replace the rods (Available locally at home supply stores. Take a ruler and measure the outer diameters in-store):
- Go BACK in the closet with the lights off and check for leaks. Adjust, et al.
Congratulations!!! You now have a light proof and mostly air proof door seal!! 
IMAGES: Here are some images for illustration:
Here’s an image illustrating how the door is masked off:
Here’s the door frame top corner where I am beginning to trim the squeeze out. Note the clean inside 90 degree angle impression in the silicone bead indicating a good seal.
Here is an image of the area where, upon inspection, I found a few leaks necessitating a supplemental bead
Here is a view from INSIDE showing how much light can enter via even a tiny leak.
I will post updates of the leak fix after I am finished.
Up in post # 2 of this thread @TommyBahama suggested the Holmes Lil’ Blizzard fan to me along with a way to hang them, et al:
So, I have the fans and decided to create a drilling template and make it publicly available to anyone who needs it. Click the link below. It will likely display a “white page” when it finishes loading unless you have Google Drive setup on your computer with a PDF extension… Don’t worry about that. Simply find the download link/icon in the upper right hand corner and download it locally to you.
Simply print the PDF file without changing the size (full size). Then put double-sided tape on the back overlapping the outer border. Leave the second side release liners in place. Cut the template out carefully along the edge of the circle. Trim the 3 interference bits out and test fit. Once it fits, take the second release liners off the tape, and apply the template evenly on the underside of the fan base.
I used a center/chamfer bit to cut starter indentions for the drill bit. You could also use a spring loaded center punch or other tool. The center points are printed on the template. After the centers are set, remove the template and drill the holes using the centers with an 11/32" or 3/16" bit (sharper the better). I then used the chamfer bit to clean up both sides of the hole.
See the images below:
Template is cut, taped, and applied:
Finished product:
Enjoy! 
Aeration Setup for nutrient mixing/storage area…
OK, I’m trying to clear a small area “elsewhere” for the RO/DI system install and a place to mix/store nutrient solutions, et al.
I did a quick setup of the little air pump and stone I bought just to get going. Have a look at the images and short video below. Is this going to be enough air 1) (on low) to keep the solution aerated in storage and 2) (on high) to oxygenate during mixing before first use?
2" cylinder stone at end of 3/16" hose, no 1-way check, and all 4 outlets bridged into single line.
At lowest air output.
Short video showing air volume at low and high settings:
Notes:
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The bucket is only about 1/3 full.
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Using 3/16" tubing. The pump can support 1/4" tubing, so might be able to increase volume a little by changing to a 1/4" tubing to reduce parasitic losses. Maybe?
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Air stone is just a cheap one… May be able to find a better design, quality, et al.
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Am looking ahead to mixing vs. storage. Need a way to rig up a quick disconnect on the air supply line so it can be connected to one stone while mixing/using, but then be connected to another stone setup installed in the bucket TOP so the top can be sealed while storing to keep contaminants out of the stored solution.
Intake/Air Supply ducting…
Work is proceeding on the Grow Room.
I’ve constructed the bay-to-bay cross-over box using 1/4" MDF, and incorporated “L” brackets (corner braces) as mounting tabs, so that the box can be repeatedly removed/replaced. The dimensions were determined based on approx 3-4x the exhaust duct cross-sectional area at the most restrictive point, which is where the 2x4 stud bisects the box.
As an after thought, I decided to add a replaceable filter internal to the box to filter out any mold spores, et al. “nasties” that might make their way into the air stream.
Here is an image of the top of the closet where I have mapped off the outside of the box placement centered on the stud (outer line). The inner line is the “cut-line” and the inside edge of the compressible weatherstripping I am using to seal the crossover. The large “L” cuts in the sheet rock are simply there to locate the top plate and the stud between the bays.
Here is a picture of the box… I’ve got it clamped up to glue up the filter screen.
And finally, here is a better picture of the screen (expanded metal, hand cut and fitted with tin snips and needle nose pliers).
I cut dado reliefs for the mounting tabs.
And the screen and tabs are being glued in place with Gorilla glue, as the 1/4" material doesn’t offer much purchase for conventional fasteners.
Will post back on this part of the build as the work progresses.
Finished installing the crossover box and the floor vent… I am pleased with the results:
Wall cut out. Wall anchors installed: Note: The air comes out from the other room on the left and goes back in and down the wall on the right, thence to the vent/register just above the baseboard.
Crossover box complete with filter retention screen:
2" Filter element installed:
Crossover box installed: Note: I added a 1/2" wide x 3/8" thick (uncompressed) seal between the box and the wall. Stuck to wall. Left secondary PSA liner intact so I can remove and replace the box to change/clean the filter. You can just barely see the edge of the seal around the edges if you zoom in and look closely.
All that remains in order to complete the air supply (intake) is to cut-in the duplicate 6" x 14" register vent near the floor in the other room.
Air Supply Finished…
Finally got the register cut-in and sealed in the adjacent room. Came out all but perfect. You gotta be lookin’ for a vent to notice it.
Exhaust System Begun…
Got the 4" exhaust intake vent installed in the ceiling of the grow room.
Here is a picture of the adjustable base, which of course will remain fully open. It fits tightly in a custom-fitted hole in the sheet rock, but I still sealed it with 3/8’ thick x 1/2" wide, closed-cell foam under the base plate. No infiltration (or worse exfiltration) of air NOT in the duct.
And finally, an image with the grill plate installed. It is easily removable, and I don’t know if it will be too restrictive or not. If so, will remove it when a grow is active. Fairly unobtrusive, and consumes no usable volume in the room.
So, now I’m just waiting for a cloudy day (or an O’dark-thirty morning) to climb up in the attic, mount the duct to the vent and hang the fan/filter combo. I’m shooting for a super short duct… But this is close to the edge of the house, so if I have to low-crawl to get to the mounting location, I MAY consider a longer duct section between the vent and fan inlet to make the fan and filter more accessible for maintenance/replacement.
Barring cloudy skies, I will begin work on the fan controller tomorrow…
Shopping
Decided on how to handle the carpeted floor today…
- I’m going to cover the floor with a layer of shower/tub pan liner (super thick, but still flexible). It is impermeable to water, and I can “upholstery fold” the corners to form a “pan” that will hold water if required. (emergency catch). The corners will be sealed inside and out with 100% clear silicone, and the entire assembly will be fill tested with water for 24 hours prior to install. It was about $7.82 per foot off a 5ft wide roll. I bought enough for two COMPLETE pans.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-5-ft-x-40-ft-Gray-PVC-Shower-Pan-Liner-Roll-41597/100343454
- Now, on top of the liner, I am going to install a piece of super-nice 1/2" plywood I happen to have sitting in the garage. I will under-cut it by 1/4" on all sides and break all the edges and corners to prevent wear on the liner. I am going to cover the board in liner material to assist in cleaning and sanitation and to prevent and organisms from taking up residence IN the plywood.
The plywood panel will also serve as a solid surface to place the catch pan, rack, and plant containers. And it is removable for serious sanitation (soap and water, ClO2, H2O2, et al.)
- Picked up some male and female 15 A, 120VAC extension cord ends. Will use these and the leftover cord stock I bought (for the main power extension cord, light extension, fan extension) to make custom length oscillating fan cords to extend/replace the stock cords to minimize clutter in the closet.
Looks professional!
What I did was use a wire fish tape and push the tape from the attic through the hole. Then attached the ducting to it and pulled it up into the attic to the point where I didn’t have to lay in the insulation.
Yep… I’m an old IS/IT/Network Engineer, so I’ve spent years in attics and crawl spaces. I have tapes, wires, rods, et al. If I can reach it, it will be a lot faster and cleaner, if I just gut it out… I’ll use a couple of strips of boards in a leap frog fashion to give me something to lay on if it is an issue…
Pretty old insulation, not particularly irritating… been in this attic A LOT.
I feel you. I ran all my network drops, alarm lines, camera lines, speaker wires. I’m about to run another duct off my air handler to a 4x4 area I’m going to build in my garage. But this will be a breeze and nowhere near my damn soffit vents.
Murphy gets in the way…
So, I’m trying to “get things done”, but Murphy is up my “4th point of contact today”.
Distraction #1 - Shipper arrives and drops a bunch of stuff off, including my Jack’s 15-0-0 Part A (Calcium Nitrate). Yep, the bag is broken open inside the box. Doesn’t look like I lost much/any volume of product, but it’s damp… like really damp. Not granule dissolving or massive clump wet, but screw with your dry weight damp. 
I call the vendor and they are sooooo nice. Awesome vendor, great staff. Offered me a complete replacement or a 50% discount if I want to try to keep/use what I have. It IS usable, so I did the right thing and took the discount. I was tempted though… especially in light of the other order disappointments in the last 24-48 hours.
I have to STOP what I am doing, find a good bucket with a lid, scrub it, rinse it, sanitize it, dry it, and THEN find dessicant packs to load up the free space with to try and pull out as much of the moisture as possible. (Note: Add bunch of large REUSABLE desiccant packs to the shopping list).
Distraction #2 - Ordered MycoMadness from a Hydro shop in Grand Rapids, MI. Package arrives. NOT MycoMadness. It’s EIGHT (8) HydroFarm trimmers with holster. Contacted vendor to ask that they send a return label and cross ship MY ORDER. They proceed to tell me they need pictures… Send them. THEN, they say that I must submit a return/refund with Amazon and RE-order… days til my refund and the price has increased by $8.00. I was sooooo tempted to tell them, “Thanks for the gift.” and call it done. So, this morning, I have to go to the USPS and pack/ship someone else’s order BACk to the vendor.
Distraction #3 - With that crap out of the way, I decide to hook the Low Speed Fan Motor Controller up and set the trimmer to the minimum level that will still spin the fan up with the potentiometer at minimum setting. Not a problem right?
Hook it all up… Multimeter reads 120 VAC out… Hmmm… Potentiometer to minimum. 120 VAC. OK, trimmer must be set too high… Trimmer turned all the way counter clockwise… 120 VAC… Oops… must be wired in backwards… Trimmer all the way clockwise… 120 VAC… Well, horse puckey! Motor speed controller is nothing more than a short piece of connecting wire…
So, contact the vendor for return/replacement… Fortunately, they had their “stuff” wired tight and gave me a no pack, no label return… just drop the part at UPS center. Tomorrow… I need to get SOMETHING done. But first… go order extra controller beyond replacement coming AND an alternate but same external hookup part, too. In fact… submit orders for spares of ALL parts in master controller… MAYBE won’t have another work stoppage on this part again.
Distraction #4 - Alright… what else… Oh, I’ll work on the waterproof liner and floor for the room… Have to do that BEFORE installing the Mylar anyway… So I measure and cut the bottom piece of the shower pan liner. Then decide I can use the 1/2" plywood false floor to hold it in place to fold/secure/seal the corners…Go out and put the wood up on saw horses. Pull out my circular saw fence… where’s my fence guide… 20 minutes later… no fence guide… “#$%, #$%^, #$%^!!!”
Oh, I have an Izzy’s Track Guide in the box… I’ll use that. Uhhhh… need a 1/2" piece of board for saw base… DRAG the table saw out… Cut 2 pieces of 1/4" to dimension because I don’t have any 1/2" to spare that will fit on the SMALL table saw…
Glue up… wait 1 hour…
And THAT my friends, brings me up to date… Zero accomplished all day, and waiting for the hour to lapse, so I can go finish building the saw track guide, so I can cut a piece of 1/2" plywood, so I can then BEGIN to work on the floor pan…
Kiss my "4th point of contact, Murphy, you spawn of a female canine!!! 
Well… at least I don’t have to work in the yard today… 
Productivity improves a little today!!
False Floor - I finally got the false floor cut to final dimensions this morning. Had to trim a bit off the front on an angle because the closet is (of course) not perfectly rectangular. Length and width are undersized by about 3/8" all around to make room for the emergency water catch liner.
The liner is 10 mil shower pan liner (linked above). I cut it 2.5" long on all sides so it forms little walls to hold around 2 gallons of liquid total if absolutely required.
Emergency liner; making corners - Here is a close-up of one corner. The idea is to slice the liner from top down to within 1/8" of the floor top on both sides, so the sides lay flat. The corner tab is pulled behind, up, and smoothed out as a doubler in the corner. Then, glue it all together with silicone (clear GE 2+)
I used parchment paper in the corner in hopes of preventing the silicone from binding to the floor and the two pieces of wood I drafted into service as a corner press. Being held in place by a 52.5 lb dumbbell. Have to wait for it to cure COMPLETELY before I move on to the next corner…
At EACH corner, you need to snug the false floor into the corner as tightly as possible before sealing up. IF you do this in all four corners, there SHOULD be room to easily pull the floor up OUT of the floor liner for cleaning, et al. If you DON’T do this, it is VERY likely you will trap the floor board in the liner… permanently.
Other Stuff:
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Got the replacement Low Speed Fan Controllers (LSFC) in today. Bought TWO of the one that was bad first time, and an alternate design, too. This time, one of them had a bad trimmer. No power at all. BUT, if you put the tip of your screwdriver on top of the trimmer or on the adjustment screw, it would come on full speed. The second one worked fine, and I set the trimmer to give me full range control of the fan from just above cutoff to line voltage (30-125 VAC <— Yes, my single leg electrical is higher than normal).
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Was up all night (couldn’t sleep) and most of the morning going through stuff where I want to put the nutrient station trying to find space. Ended up throwing a bunch of stuff out. With stuff shrinkage and a lot of additional creative organizing, I have ALMOST enough room to be comfortable mixing, measuring, and filling feeding can with nutrient solution.
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Going to have to mount the 7-stage RO/DI unit up about 2-2.5 feet up on the wall to give me space under it for counter containers of dry nutrient powders. That way, I’m not opening the big buckets and letting moisture in every day (or two or three).
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Got the Stanley 9-outlet surge protector mounted in the closet:
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Got the main Heavy Duty (120 VAC, 20Amp) extension cord terminated on the plug side and routed around, under, and through everything but the last wall. Want to get the Mylar installed before I drill the hole through to the closet and feed the bare cable through. Then I can run it up to the bus bar and terminate it properly with the receptacle. I’m considering shortening the surge protector cable to eliminate the extra cable rather than bundling and zipping it bundled up… neater that way.
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The project box, duplex plug, cable glands, and duplex pate arrived today for housing and completing the temp and humidity controller. Not using a duplex plate, but I needed the center screw, and I will use it as a template for cutting the box to flush mount the duplex plug.
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Also ordered approx. 5 lbs of color indicating desiccant granules. I am going to put it in Mason jars of various sizes with the plates modified/replaced with window screen. Then, I can just put one in each dry nutrient container to keep them bone dry. This stuff is rechargeable, so once it changed color, you just put it in the oven at 200 F or so and heat it until the color changes back. I’m also going to put a quart in each vehicle to keep them bone dry and mold/mildew free as well! Any number of uses for this stuff!
Time Crunch coming…
Really need to get on the ball here and get finished. I need to drop seed soon or I won’t be able to finish the harvest/curing before October 1st… which is a necessity.
Controller Assembly…
So, as I think I mentioned earlier, I am building my own controller. Here are a few pictures of the assembly process so far.
Mapping out approximate placement of top mounted components.
Top is plotted for machining. Used a Dremel with a cutoff wheel at the end of a 36" extension and hand files. Used a spring-loaded punch to mark the through holes. Used a drill press to drill the holes.
SHT2000 controller heat/cool & humidifier/de-humidifier controller (THC), Low Speed Fan Controller (black knob), duplex outlet (fan top, humidifier/de-humidifier bottom), Power ON/OFF switch (right), Function Switch (left), big cable gland for power cord, small gland for sensor cable.
Inside view: Low Speed Interrupt Relay (yellow terminals), Fan SSR (#1, left top), humidifier/de-humidifier SSR (#2, left bottom). Note to self: Don’t plot component layout when running short of sleep. All components in base are held in place with 3M Command Strips for potential repair/replacement. All components are removable for replacement should any component fail.
Note: Single pole, dual throw (SPST) switch will be replaced with dual pole, dual throw (DPDT) and wired such that in the UP position, the FAN is controlled by both the cooling/heating and humidifier/de-humidifier relays in the THC via SSR #1 (top). In the DOWN position, the THC will control separate devices via both SSRs, and both halves of the duplex plug.
Now I just have to build the wiring harness, wire it up, and test it before mounting in the grow room. Considering that we are dealing with AC Mains here, I won’t do that until after I sleep.
I’m tired reading your thread! You are a busy man.
LOL! Yep, pretty busy. I just hope I’m not boring people with my construction journal. Posting about it helps motivate me to keep working and hopefully finish it within the week. I NEED to drop seeds, but I want everything in place BEFORE I have to switch gears and babysit. 
I just took a break to eat dinner… Been working on assembling/organizing the nutrient station. Have some parts/materials to put on order tonight. 
Damn dude, you are making me look lazy!
Not boring at all. Stoked you are documenting it all.
Keeping Dry stuff DRY!
Here’s a tip for keeping your dry nutes DRY so you can get good/consistent weights on them when mixing. I mentioned this above:
Here is a picture and the details:
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4 gallon square bucket with 25 lbs of my Jack’s 5-12-26 (Part A) in it.
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Take a 1/2 pint Mason jar and fill it with the desiccant to the rim. Do it over the sink with a CLEAN and dry scoop, and put it in to wash right after. Also… don’t get this stuff on your hands or spill it and step on it. It will stick to you and you might not notice. It won’t poison or burn you, but it WILL suck all the moisture out of the spot it is touching… fast.
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Now, get you something to use as a screen, preferably thin and durable. You COULD use ladies stockings, but they have tiny holes and not very durable. I used one of these that I bought a while back and was not using. You can get about 8 screens cut from it on standard mouth Masons (4 each side).
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Smooth it down and hold it taut with one hand wrapped around the jar while you start the ring on the jar. Ease up on the tension as the ring takes over so you don’t put holes in the edges. These things can be reused indefinitely.
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Now, simply place it in your bucket. If you depress it in at an angle like this, you can check it without having to pick it up. Just pop the top, look, and put the top back on. Note: I don’t open my bulk storage for every feeding. I am using smaller, sealed storage on my bench top to further battle humidity. Fertilizers are notoriously hygroscopic (aka: water vapor sponges).
IF you get some, buy the Orange as the spec sheets show it to be slightly even more effective. And buy 5lbs or more. You can use this stuff pretty much anywhere. Closets, cars, RVs, boxes in the attic, etc, etc… pretty much anything you want to suck the water out.
Hopefully, be back later today with pics of the working 7-stage RO/DI station.
Y’all have an awesome day!!
RO/DI Water System
Been working on the RO/DI install, and while thinking about possibly adding a booster pump before it and a pre-filter/screen before the pump, it occurred to me that I haven’t flushed my water supply lines or on-demand water heater in “a while”. So, I rigged a waste hose out the garage and down the driveway to get a good gravity flow and rigged the hose to a “field expedient” weir bucket to catch any solids.
Here is what I got…
And spread out…
There is:
- calcium carbonate
- Copper bearing oxidized particles
- sand/silica
- super fine clay
- brown flakes (baked on clay that let go off the inside of the heating tubes?)
- a lot of other stuff…
I flushed the system with my recirc flush pump and a pretty strong acid solution just about 6 months ago.
This is WAYYYY too much crap in the lines for a municipal water supply if you ask me. My WELL has less crap in it, and it has no treatment at all.
But thought confirmed…
A 150 micron pre-filter is a DEFINITE good idea.
Random tasks here and there…
Trying not to get to a work stoppage while awaiting certain parts, like my replacement LED module for my brand new light (Come onnnnnn, HLG!), some special wire, connectors, et al. So… I’m hopping around working on the grow room, nutrient station, and ancillary stuff to keep something productive happening.
Power: I’m running the custom extension cord right up to the bus bar, so there really isn’t any necessity to have that super long cord, so I cut it back to meet the extension power cord in the left corner of the shelf area. Is my OCD showing? 
Lighting - I mounted the driver for the QB-324 on the wall… vertically. The DC side is coming out the bottom and will proceed almost directly to the center side of the light where the cable will be tied down. The power cord (note RFI suppression device) comes out the top and comes right back down to plug in directly or via the power meter.
I hated all the bulk of that extra power cable and the inline wire splicer/connector (although it IS a cool style connector). So, I trimmed the power lead back and installed a Leviton 5266-CA 15 Amp, 125 Volt, Angle Plug.
Still have to finish mounting the Wireless control module to the driver chassis. I’m going to go ahead and leave the Wago connectors inline instead of soldering to facilitate component replacement should either the module or the driver goes bad.
Aeration: - The cord on the air pump I’m using to aerate any temporarily stored nutrient solution is a) too short, and b) too wimpy (super small conductors), so I replaced it with something more substantial. No need for an extension cord, and less voltage drop.
There was a slight issue in maintaining the water resistant/proof nature of the pump housing, but I will cure that with a judicious application of GE Silicone 2+:
I also discovered that there are actually TWO separate pumps inside this case… One pump per each pair of outlets.
Just about have the nutrient station sorted, and I will put some pics up when I have it finished…
Back to work!