Feeding help needed

Soil In Pots, Hydroponic, Or Coco? Soil

System Type? 5gal fabric pots, FF soil and nutes

Ph? 6.8 in / 6.4 out

What Is Strength Of Nutrient Mix? 300 ppm in / 2400 out


Light System, Size? (2) Mars Hydro ts1000

Temps; Day, Night 70-75 constant

Humidity; Day, Night 40-45 constant

Ventilation System; Yes 3" inline @ about 25%

Ac, Humidifier, De-humidifier not using

Co2; No

This is my second grow about 7 weeks since I flipped to 12/12. I have been having issues with nute lockout, also did on my first grow. I had flushed the plant about 5 days ago using bushdoctor until the runoff ppm was equal to the ppm going in (both below 1000). After flushing I gave it a weak nute mix 600ppm in 1 gal of water nut noticed more purple leaves and some canoeing. Today, 5 days since flush, the plant dried out enough to feed it, I gave it 1 gal distilled water with 300ppm of nutes and some myco+. Solution went in at 300ppm and 6.8 ph. Runoff came out at 2400 ppm and 6.4 ph - nute locked again!? I ran a second gallon of water with bushdoctor through the pot until the runoff came down 900-1200ppm (see questions below).

1- After doing some reading I think I identified a couple of my problems areas. First I have been letting the runoff sit in the tray- it is not a lot, less than an inch diameter between the tray and the pot and about an inch deep, this usually absorbs into the soil within a couple hours but I am now reading that this practice may increase the salt build up. What is the best practice to remove the runoff (if needed at all)? Are you pulling the tray and dumping it after every feed? or is it ok to let it sit for a few hours and let it absorb/bottom feed off the tray? Seems like a huge PITA to try and lift the wet dripping pot and somehow pull the tray and get another one under it without spilling and making a mess, am I missing something?

2- Given what I have already done today, feed then flush down to 900ppm out, my plan is to let it dry back out for 3-4 days then give it ph’d water and maybe a little more myco+ so that I can measure PPM and PH in the runoff again in hopes that she starts taking up some nutrients- I usually only feed every other water or 1x per week. Any other suggestions on actions I should take?

3- I notice that my PPM readings will vary as much as 500 +/- depending if I put the probe in the very top of my runoff or if I fully submerge it to the bottom of the tray. Do you guys try to average this reading or is there a “correct” way/depth to measure.

4- Lately I can’t seem to get my ppm to match the dosage. I have been paying more attention to the volume of the dose and erring on the low side of PPM since I am having trouble with salt build up and nute lockout. For example; today I added 1/4 tsp of chaching plus myco to a gallon of water it read 300ppm (calibrated, apera instruments). The feed schedule is calling for 1000+ ppm but in order to achieve that I would be way above the recommended dose of 1/4 tsp per gallon. Again, since my problems seem to be more related to over feeding, I have stuck with the low PPM numbers and the “correct” volume of nutes.

5- Is there a better feed schedule than 1x per week? I have a 3 new auto seeds in FFOF soil that are due to sprout any day here, hoping to try my first outdoor grow. Using FFOF, which has a good amount of nutes to start, my plan was to just give them ph’d water and check the runoff ppm until it came down to be equal with my water in ppm basically telling me all the available nutes had been used up- does this make sense and is it a good plan moving forward?

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I just recently switched to different nutes, as i was having major problems with the FF trio and experiencing issues with salt build up and nute lock. I’ve heard a few people also say the trio is tricky for this same issue.

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I would recommend dumping the excess, and making sure you have approximately 20% run off, to reduce salt build up.
Shop vac works for well for this, or a bucket. Not sure the size of your girls.

I feed every watering with Jacks. You didn’t mention your nutrient line. If you’re feeding once a week, you may be deficient not locked out. Pictures are important here. FFOF has nutrients in it, and can get by with just watering a few times in between. This depends on the life stage, and the amount of light too.


using fox farm nutes on this plant which is in FFHF, currently into the chaching product for the end of flowering. Probably only a couple more weeks before she goes to straight water anyway- I just hate to keep repeating the same problem hoping to avoid it on the next grow.

I will switch to my phone and shoot a couple photos in a min

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  1. I put pvc tubing under my fabric bags. I also never do run off. You can get these plant lifted things so the bags are way off the floor. Then no drip tray needed except for catching runoff to test.

With FF I would never let it reabsorb the nutrient water.

  1. Feeding with FF Nutrients most should keep it under 50% of the recommended dose. They say feed 2 gallons per per which in the beginning no way. You build up to that as the plant gets bigger.

  2. Soil probe…pass on it. Not the best. A Apera 20 meter is about $50 on Amazon and is used by way to many here for a good reason. Blue Lab rocks but it’s way more costly. Vivosun TDS I have and another. I don’t ever use them as I do the complete opposite of what growers say to do. I’m an anomaly and so there is that.

  3. Key to FF Feeding Chart. Since I know you are not using theirs entire nutrient line, the PPM is useless to you. I say this because I have 4 solid years of only their products. Its based strictly on it all. I do not use Flower Kiss as its a spray. Since I am not at home, I can’t help you on the PPM. But please say which ones you are using and maybe I can find out.

  4. With brand new soil, you won’t need nutrients for 6 weeks. Now Sativas can drain it all in 4 weeks depending on size. Smaller the plant, longer you can go without feeding. Example…I am on my 3rd grow cycle in a row and I just finally started depleting the nutrients. We are talking over 1.5 years trying to deplete it. In all fairness, they are all Indica dominant.

My Sativas get up to 8’ tall so a new soil is drained usually in 3 to 4 week.

I am an anomaly tho.

Let this speak for my knowledge and yes, this is the forever home. Soil is over 1.5 years and only giving her water.

I was lazy and didn’t get a update photo. I will tomorrow.



@JTinNY I based that on the assumption you are using FF nutrients. Correct and if so, which ones please.

Those colours are just stunning!

currently feeding chaching. Worked through open sesame and beastie blooms roughly following their schedule- this is a photo I let veg for a few months to fill up my tent.

Without using all the Nutrients, it’s going to throw your readings off every time. You will be chasing a unicorn trying to match the ppm on the feeding chart.

You could get say Distilled water and do a dose for each one. Get a ballpark average for PPM. Then you will kinda have a safe range.

Love the colors.

@MrPeat Either I am misunderstanding your comment or I just came to a realization that I am missing several components of their feed system; using week 10 as an example, are you saying that I should be feeding Big Bloom, Tiger Bloom, Bembe and ChaChing? all together these should come up to 1400-1500 ppm?

Mathmatically that makes a lot of sense! I guess I had it in my head that each of the colored blocks was a slightly different system green being liquid nutes, purple being dry etc

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For Week 10: Big Bloom 3 tsp
Tiger Bloom 2 tsp
Flowers Kiss 2 tsp
Bembe 3 tsp
Cha Ching 1/2 tsp

Use all of these and depending on your water ppm,
you should be in the range of 1400-1540. Based on the 700 scale. I don’ use Flower Kiss so it does change the overall ppm but still in the range.

Now say you don’t have BB and TB, it will serious change the ppm.

You need all nutrients for said specific week to get in the ppm range stated on the feeding chart.

As for the colors: they have 3 different nutrient lines.

First one is called the Trio. This the first 3.

The second one that is orange is their Dirty Dozen line.

The third one that is purple is their 3 dry amendments.

I feel kind of silly having misunderstood that but I sincerely appreciate you pointing me in the right direction! Not afraid to say I am still very new at this and learning at each turn in the road… thanks again for the clarification. I will see what I can do to finish this one out as best as possible and then adjust my approach on the new plants.

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We was all new to growing. No worries. I have 4 years under my belt. I had growing pains as well. We all did. Can’t learn if you don’ have failures.

And you are welcome. Now you are bettered prepared and that is all that matters to me. :+1:

I have a similiar condition. I quit trying to adjust run-off (flowering 6 weeks).
I feared drowning after 3-flushes with 3 gallons in a week ( 4 gal pot, 3/4 full, TOP/DRESSED DRESSER).
Forum reading support possibility my FFOF, Peat moss, perilite, and BIGFOOT Mycho are loving the blackstrap un-sulfered molasses I recently started and continuing (half strength) or top dressings?. Plants showed disturbance from water-boarding and have recovered since. Using Jacks, 3-2-1 half dose and BLOOM. Feeding PPM measmured @ 1100 and PH 6.5 is my feed level for all garden residents.

Just going to jump in with the most recent FF schedule. There have been some changes.


All they did was basically cut down some of the doses to almost half like we already recommend anyways. Then added more doses to others.

And I have never needed Cal-Mag in 4 years. I will give the “new” chart a look over once home after the 5th.

But as I break every grow rule and knock it out of the park, I will keep doing what I do as I don’t follow the Herd. I prefer to March to the beat of my own drum.

And you know I know FF very well.

This makes the Solo Cup challenge way to simple and yes, I have a plan to cut that soil in half for another grow. She is going vertical now. Tomorrow I will update her progress.

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