so for Scrogging i just wanna make sure i dont mess it up, first time trying this.
so does that top layer have to grow through the trellis, than i trim everything under the trellis net, than tie the branches along the netting as the branches grow throughout flowering⌠is that sounding about right?
or someone help clarify so i dont do it wrong
someone did say, induce flowering as the plant is just under the net, not grown through, but to trim all the leaves under the net, but that would leave just branches. i dont fully understand, but im doin it so i can understand it, i require knowledge
thanks for reading
How rigid are the stems now? If not rigid to a point that they could snap, you could add the net a few inches below the canopy and weave the branches into the net squares. @beardless scrogs autos
the stems are pretty solid, some of the newly grown stems arent super thick yet, but they should be able to handle some lightly aggressive movements.
so, just to be clear, the top leafs should be over the net right is what ur saying?
and thank u for adding that tip, i didnt think about just weaving the leafs through.
would u say the current size is decent enough to get about 15+ oz from scrogging?
I donât scrog autos due to the short veg period but several growers are successful at this. I top and LST all my plants because I like the option of moving them. Most that scrog do so with photo period plants and once the most of the net squares are full the light schedule is flipped. Here is one my typical auto training techniques and the plants you have can still use the LST method.
not impossible but thereâs many variables associated with yield. Strain type, genetics, environmental conditions, lighting and nutrients. My largest single auto harvest was 10 ounces and smallest was 2. 5 zips is a good average
what i got is just feminized so i could push flowering if i need to, i have never done autos. i hear that photos get more yields since i can veg em longer.
wow that pic is incredible
so the LST method is unfamiliar to me, i will do some research and find out everything i can about it. maybe a quick run down of what LST is?
i also add lots of nutes i think, i set the ppm up to 700 or so give or take a few during veg, i stopped giving em nutes today, cleansing the water so i can switch to the flowering nutes
the nutrients i speak of are the fertilizer packs u get from ilgm.
ok i just realized that lst is lifht stress, idk many light stress techniques, i pinch the stems to make em thicker, i do topping. i think those are heavy stress tho
I run photoperiod plants exclusively. I have a couple of observations on SCROGâing:
First, one screen per plant. Putting multiple plants in one screen is a recipe for problems. No two plants will behave the same and will finish at different times. With multiple plants in one screen you canât remove plants from grow space to do maintenance or diagnose/deal with grow issues.
Second; fill the screen before flower. Youâll get some stretch but with good lights that is minimal. I fill the screen to 90% full before I flip. Doing this while still in veg means the stems are supple and bend easily into the cells.
Third; make your SCROG adjustable for height. This is easily done by using two different diameters of PVC so that one fits into another and allows you to âtelescopeâ the legs into correct height.
Here is my current from before net to now. 3 different strains. 3 different harvests times likely. Net positioned in a way where it will be less difficult to harvest individually. I did this by partitioning my frame to allow me to cut without effecting the other side. I donât really make an effort to start them in any particular way aside from topping really. I just let them grow into the net with a lot of tucking a defoliation. These seeds were germinated feb 1st.
These are all in coco, all treated the same. Air flow very important, access to plants all around very important. Auto feed helps. Relatively problem free if you plan and adjust accordingly.
As for harvest weights it depends on the size of the plant. In a scrogged 2x4 I usually get between 1LB and 1.5lb dry with around 300 watts.
by âmy calendarâ i mean i germinated the first two mid april, 2 weeks in the cup, 4-6 weeks in veg, than another 8 or so in flowering. so by that estimate, i could basically flower by next week⌠but since they are not autos, i could induce flowering whenever. looks like i should have grown em a bit wider sooner
@Hershy420@OGIncognito@Low
Hershy I think for a full, successful SCROG you need to be in control of how long you veg. You will need to be able too veg longer than an auto. ,and be in control of the âdaylight hours.â
421 also just focus on filling up your trellis, once it is almost full flip it to 12/12 day lenght. It will stretch up throughout your upper level trellises. And what strain are you growing?
Itâs pretty easy to spend a considerable amount of time in scrog to get it where you want, strain/phenotypes matter. love doing it with clones, itâs much faster. In the end if anyone is chasing yield indoors itâs the way to go. It is work, but so is training like @OGIncognito , end results speak for themselves. I personally scrog to max my area/yield, and Iâm usually not on any sort of time crunch. It also allows me to spread my light pretty evenly. I get annoyed when numbers drop even 100 points. Iâve spent 6+ months on certain strains in veg to max a canopy. So as I said, strains/phenotypes matter.
so u basically fill the netting before inducing flowering?
have it grow as u weave the branches to fill the net, than start flowering after the net is full?
or will it still grow a bunch to fill the net during the flowering stage?
thanks for the pictures and advice so far
ya, those pics are exactly what im tryin to do. and because i cant grow outdoors right now, from all my research, i came to the conclusion that scrogging is the way to max the yield and stay at high quality. so all the advice helps since its my first go.
I fill the net 100% if I can before flipping, keeping everything below the net removed. Lots of defoliation, for air flow. Canât be worried about defoliation when it comes to scrog. I donât weave anything around the net itself I keep it tucked under. If you weave around it (over under) it makes harvest a PITA and I like to hang my plants whole. I top once usually anywhere from the 3rd node to the 5th node. The first node on plants I remove entirely because they are smaller than the secondary nodes usually by the end. So I count #2 as #1. Max out your space and be selective on branching. I try to keep my canopy depth around 8-10â in flower because anything below that in a dense canopy turns to larf. Depending on density of flowers though you can see larf develop 5-6â down in canopy.
Scrogging itself is easy, just in depth and time consuming. Canât be afraid to cut branches off, bend, break, split. It happens. The more rigid the first net is the better, i use cut to size netting for the secondary and sometimes even a 3rd net.
I usually run off ppfd and dli. Photone app got me by for quite sometime but it reads 100-200 points higher than my actual meter. There is nothing wrong with utilizing recommended heights by the light manufacturer. You can adjust lower or higher from there. If itâs too much you can usually tell by how they react after a day or so.
Also, Runtz is Fire! One of the faves in the house.
not impossible but thereâs many variables associated with yield. Strain type, genetics, environmental conditions, lighting and nutrients. My largest single auto harvest was 10 ounces and smallest was 2. 5 zips is a good average 
