Some people on here tell me this is normal fading while others say there is deficiencies. I’ve done people’s suggestions to fix the issues and it just keeps yellowing every leaf and some dying. I’m scared going to lose my crop this is my first grow attempt and I think im like 20 days out from harvest.
Here’s my journal
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Damaged leaves dont turn green again. They will eventually die and fall off as they age like fall leaves. Leaves also hold nutrients and the plant will pull from them and kill them off as well. Usually starting bottom to top. With all/lots of white pistils I want to say you’ve got a while left for sure.
Im not saying dont be concerned and more experienced growers im sure will be able to help with more answers.
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Yeah there’s definitely something going on I’m just stressing not making to the end after 50 days of doing my best to take care of this thing.
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Just wanted to see if someone says it’s a lost cause so I can just start another seed
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Definitely not a lost cause 
You’ll still get some smoke 
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Thank god, really didn’t want to start all over. Next grow BAS 3.0 with an RO water filter, hopefully less headaches.
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@Bigcbud your doing fine my friend there’s nothing to worry about cannibas is a very strong plant its close to the end your plant is using up nutrients to get them buds done all its doing is feeding from itself just keep doing what you’re doing my friend happy growing
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Thanks growmie, I guess seeing everyone’s plant close to harvest with nice green leaves had me concerned. Been having nute burn and other issues since day 41 and have watched it progress. I’m just going to be happy to of grown my first, fire or not.
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I am new to growing, well about 16 months of solid trying.
When I tried R/O water it brought more issues for me. My tap comes out at about 250PPM at 7PH. When diagnosing issues I ended up going with R/O water and trying to build up with that. With R/O water there isn’t any “Ions” in the water so it doesn’t have a PH. Once I added everything I needed and PH’ed it, I thought I was good. For some reason or another all I ran into was problem after problem that looked like deficiencies. Run off tests confirmed that my PH was all over the place. In my mind, ( I have no facts behind this) the R/O water didn’t contain enough ions/dissolved solids to maintain the PH, so when it went in whatever PH was already there took over so it didn’t really have a " buffer". I switched back to standard water and if it was between 6.5-7 I left it alone after adding feed and my grow after that was successful. Sometimes it would be 7.3, sometimes 6.3.
Just a bit of my experience about trying R/O water thinking it would solve my issues. I think R/O water is only really needed if your water supply is pretty bad or has a ton of disolved solids.
Just my 0.02, take it with as a grain of salt. Definately do not let it stress you out though, Once you relax and find it as a “hobby” everything seems to work out better and be clearer on the issues.
Starting out, I didn’t have any of the basic tools. PH pen, Moisture meter, TDS meter, stuff like that. As I ran into these issues and purchased those devices, saw the results- everything has started to smooth out.
The next thing for me was the drying. Jeez it’s important to keep that room cool and a good RH. If it dries too fast, or gets too warm, it really really can make some otherwise good stuff unpleasant.
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What medium were you using? I’m going the soil route and I think it’s less detrimental to have a 0 mineral water as long as not watering to runoff. I think the BAS 3.0 will have everything it needs I’m just concerned with chloramines in my tap water and the 7.8 ph water.
My issue with the ph pens is even after calibrated I never feel like it’s showing me the right ph.
This is my next headache because my tent gets toasty, usually 80-85 in there. I bought a thermoelectric wine cooler to attempt the lotus method because I don’t see another way to achieve 60/60 for the low and slow.
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Need to know what you have going on as far as what your inputs are and what your runoff has been. Environmental conditions, etc.
If you are at 50 days you have more like 40 to go. Unless its 50 days in flower.
It is not normal fading for 50 days from seed. Fading happens in the very end of life cycle.
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I thought the same it’s 60 day flowering time from the site it’s day 50 from germ. This is an auto so the term “flowering time” confuses me. I posted it all on the link above. Not trying to be lazy or unhelpful but it was a lot that I noted.
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Ironically, I also went that route to see if I could handle it any better. Koolatron 20 bottle with an extra dehumidifier inside. Mine are still curing from what came out of the first run, but you need a humidity tester to pull them out at about 11%. They retain so much more terpenes and trichome’s this way instead of the 80F tent. I also put a govee in there to watch the dew point and VPD, you can pretty much replicate the cannatrol on the cheap. The post dry pre cure stuff, is was nice in comparison though. I’m doing the cure in grove bags, after reading that very long post on here from back in 2021.
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Im not sure where the ro water doesnt have a pH comes from. I thought it sounded odd and looked it up. It does have an alkalinity that is testable. Mine is. It has a 0 ppm/tds and comes out at around 6.2pH or a little lower on my blue labs testers. The input water to the ro system also effects the final pH. Maybe distilled water is different.
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Its not that it doesnt have a ph, its that it is ph unstable. Liquid must have a tds of atleast 300ppm to be ph stable. Ph unstable liquid will not adjust soil ph it will instead adopt soil ph.
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Gotcha, that makes more sense. Ive just seen a lot of people saying there is no testable pH. Some as far as to say you need super sophisticated equipment etc.
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Autos still go through the normal photo phases but you just dont control the flip. So its still seedling → vegging → flower. So flowering time is how long till harvest from the time it begins flowering. If you planted it 50 days ago and say it started to flower at 30 days you would only be in flower for 20 days total. If they say 60 days flowering with my example it would mean the total age at harvest would be 110 days
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I didn’t want to do any extra modification and read that can burp the fridge once or twice a day to help the exchange rate, fingers crossed. It has a circulating fan in the back so hope that will suffice, we’re both on that learning curve because not many here have to do that.
Just when I thought spending $130 to remove chloramines and get lower ph’d water i see this. So if the amended soil ph is already good (which has 3.0 should be) then it doesn’t matter for the ph of R/O water? This is good news for me then because I never trust those pens.
Deep down I kind of knew this but was holding onto hopes that it would be done in ten days lol, wishful thinking. Damn I got like 20-30 more days then.
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For sure want water with no chloramine.
The ph of any liquid you input is CRUCIAL. For soil you want it between 6.3 and 6.6ph (6.5 being perfect) for coco/hydro you want 5.7-6 (5.8 being perfect)
In order to use RO or distilled water without any nutrition in it you will need to stabilize it. I use epsom salts (magnesium and sulfur) or calmag (calcium and magnesium) to bring the waters tds up to about 350ppm then use ph up or down depending to get it to my desired ph.
What my desired ph is will depend on my last runoff measurements. If my last runoff was below 6.5ph then I will input at 6.8ph to adjust up towards 6.5 if runoff was above 6.5ph last time I go in at 6.5ph to adjust down towards 6.5. Make sense?
Avg timeline for autoflower goes like this.
7-10 days germ
7-10 days seedling
14 days veg
7-10 days transition (stretch)
8-10+ weeks flowering
None of that is set in stone but its a fair assesment of what its like growing. The only difference between auto and photo is that you can veg as long as you like with a photo.
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