Hello
My first time using a scrog net
Any tips on when I can start using the net?
When should I start using the net?
How long can I wait to use the net?
I know I drop the net and pancake the plant
Is this a one time deal or once the start growing out do I tuck them under again?
Thank you
2 Likes
Depends on your plant size, but usually start smashing it down after it’s about 8” or a little sooner.
5 Likes
I usually like to have it at least 12” above my pots to make it easier to water, but that can all be personal preference or depends how/what you’re method of watering is 
10 Likes
@MattyBear @Covertgrower hello and i agree with @MattyBear I have. My first one alittle low i keep saying I should of veg a week longer to have more water room but I also use a pump sprayer. Easy on the top root zone. But its personal preference. I keep catching the net with nozzle just cause I m medicated lol. Jk 
its just me. Lol.
7 Likes
This is another case of personal preference and growing style. I usually shoot for about 24" between soil and the SCROG net. This time around the net is 18" above because the plants were not growing as quickly early in the grow. I try to flip at 50 - 60 days from seed. The net goes on a week to 10 days before flipping and I tuck for the first week to 10 days after flipping.
My grows are on the untidy side but fairly productive.
@Covertgrower @MattyBear and @Growcoast have given you sound advice that represents the more common SCROG methods.
9 Likes
I agree @merlin44. I just grow smaller girls to accommodate my style. I throw up at 12 inches and always let them grow into net then I start my weaving process then I let grow for 2 weeks then I flip and have my second scrog 8 to 12 inches above that during the stretch phase I continue to weave for two weeks and then leave alone my method works for me we all have many styles Its an art to grow craft cannabis. Happy growing. Happy holidays all.
6 Likes
I would suggest when you build your screen to go with a rectangle like 4 X 6" instead of square as I find it easier to thread branches through. You can SCROG up to the point the plant starts to harden off, then you’re out of luck.
7 Likes
I don’t worry about inches and timing and go with what the plants are telling me and how they are doing. Not much help there, I know.
I can add this: research your strain and how much it will need support. If the support is minimal, then go for the super cheap nets you can destroy at harvest. Trust me, you will be thankful for this one. If the strain is a bud heavy one, go for the bungee, permanent kinds.
My first grow was a super enthusiastic Wedding Cake and I did a double layer of bungee SCROG. Hence, I took the field trip on how difficult it is to harvest with a permanent net. But it did the trick.
Second grow was autoflowers and I cut off a piece of netting from a 5 x 15’ piece. That worked great for these lightweight plants.
This grow is Critical Mass and will have heavy, heavy buds. So I will be back to the bungee net. And most likely still need to stake them and add plant yoyos.
SCROG is really a fun way and a handy way to tame them. Pay attention to your available height in the tent. You need to do some calculations on how tall your plant can get to keep it at least 8" and 12" is better, from the light at the tallest you expect the buds to get. That dictates net height in tent as you will tie down to keep them in check.
Have fun with SCROGGING. I don’t see why it should not be used with every grow. The grid pattern alone helps me keep track of which stem is doing what, and finding say an injured stem and shoring it up. I will most likely add a bungee net at top of new grow, too, not to tie plants down with, but use the plant yoyo to hold up the anticipated heavy CM buds.
6 Likes
@Not2SureYet has a cool idea for a SCROG that he has really mastered. Maybe he’ll pop in and show you.
5 Likes
We would all love to see that. Anything to improve our techniques.
5 Likes
This is one of 3 double scrogg tables that I use…
Bottom net has 8 inch squares and top net has 4 inch squares and there is 8 inches in between the tables …
Bottom table is 3x4 and top table is 4x5…
Best method that I know of…
Works like a charm…
My vegg room and my flower room are in two different places…
So as soon as they go into my flower room I drop my table down on the plants because my tables hang from the ceiling so it makes it easier to deal with and I super crop and tie everything down from day one from light flip and continue to clamp them down throughout the 3 week stretch…
Top table is there to hold all of the weight…
8 Likes
Good morning. Here is a quick video that shows mine, more or less. Mine are set at 10" - 12" off the top of the soil as well. I got tired of messing with the lines and made mine so they are movable. And removable. When I am in veg. I slid all the lines to the side. When I harvest. I can un clip each line making it easy to get the plants out. I can also remove the front section of each scrog. So I can move a plant in or out if I want. I tried a few ways. And finally came up with this which works great for me. This scrog here can be broke down to use as two separate 2x4 scrogs when needed. This is just one idea out there on how to do it. I think it was @GreenJewels that has some really nice ones too.
4 Likes
@peachfuzz, I may swipe part of your scrog idea there to add to mine. I have been thinking of making an add on for a second top too. I could build it right into mine pretty easy and also removable 
3 Likes
Once you start using 2 tables , you will never go back to just 1…
Also the reason for the smaller table on the bottom is that it makes it easier to tend to the bottom and lollipop everything and by the time the plants reach the top table it allows me to spread them out more because by that time the first table isn’t big enough for all of the plants , so it basically allows me to judge accurately how much more space I will need after i fill the first net and it also allows more air flow threw the bottom portion of the canopy…
It’s a win , win all the way around…
6 Likes
Nope, not me. I’m running my first scrog. But thanks, I am heading back up to learn more on a scrog. I think it was @TDubWilly that had very cool scrog nets ? An adjustable net for each bucket/pot/plant.
Mine are adjustable. I used electric conduit fittings on my pole, that can slide up and down to the height I want. That I learned from BudBrother. The pvc framed nets rests on those conduit fittings.
Actually 
@Not2SureYet
I remember checking your nets out. I like your idea of being able to remove a plant if necessary.
3 Likes
@GreenJewels, Like most. I am still trying to find the perfect balance. I move tents around all the time. So my scrogs need to come apart easy 
I can separate and store all the parts too. Or turn a 2x2 top into a bigger one in just a few minutes. I started out with bamboo. Then @Myfriendis410 guided me to the pvc
3 Likes
Just on a side note , this is what I use to clamp everything down with…
I absolutely love them…
They are reusable and a bag of 500 to 1000 isn’t that much…
They dont hurt the plants and they can grow freely , but it will keep them in place and growing in the direction that you want them to and if you want to reposition them , just unclamp and reclamp where you want them…
5 Likes
@peachfuzz I used those, only black. I changed to white though. I can use a black light to find them for removable in the dark They are handy for tying up your plants too
3 Likes
Everything looks good to me in this thread, mainly because I don’t believe there is one right way to scrog.
There is basically only two things that are always a must for me:
1: I never weave the plant through the scrog through the scrog in any way, this makes for a cumbersome harvest cutting the plant from the net like that. If you use disposable scrogs i guess it would be a little easier but I don’t.
2: even though I don’t consider tying or wearing the plant to the scrog wrong, I never tie a single branch down, that’s just me. After several harvesting nightmares and trying different methods of tying down the plant and weaving the plant in and out of the scrog, it hit me, I got to find a way to make the plant flat without connecting it directly to the net. I personally let the plant grow up to the scrog then turn it sideways and make it start growing horizontal underneath the net. Oh, and when it comes to lollypopping; i decide how thick of a canopy i want then clean up everything under that, and I mean everything. At first I ran about 10" canopies then move to an 8" canopy. The flatter the canopy the shorter but denser the buds will be, taller canopies will achieve cola type structure.
I have never run an upper and lower scrog because I don’t have any headroom in my grow area. Top to bottom i believe my room is about 5’5" and the tent is only 5’ but @peachfuzzis right, it’ll help keep everything easier to manage.
I’ve kinda moved away from the scrog and instead am just growing more plants cuz it’s faster and harvest just seems to be so much easier but here’s a few pics of some older ones.
10 Likes
I forgot to finish this thought. I continually keep “tucking” branches, never weaving or tying, that way at harvest time, I simply lift the net from the plant then cut that plant down, takes no time at all!
But once again, to each their own. You are the master of your own plant, so do what you think you’ll be comfortable with
Here’s my example of only pushing the plant down and flat with a scrog
Then I could easily lift the net to do whatever
Made harvesting easy and maintaing the plant easy too
This is what a “thin” canopy looks like, all those buds are short but they are thick and dense. Basically i grew an entire plant of only “cola tops” 
Hope that helps
Outie 5000
9 Likes