Nope, you only stated real facts. And while it’s true that Advanced Nutrients are super easy to use and provide amazing results, they are amongst the most expensive nutrients to buy. I’ve used them for a few years too and was quite happy with it.
The only reason I switched was monetary… and now I can say that I hate having to PH my feeds… 
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You got great stuff, I just like to toss out the removal of a step. Might only save 10 minutes of testing and adjustment but that adds up over time, and once you get to where you can read the plants you’ll know exactly how much feed they need how many milliliters all that stuff without all kinds of tests.
I’m also a big diy person I build my own equipment, well experiment building stuff lol
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Can get the 1gallon 3 part base for 120.00$+ tax on Amazon. I love advanced Nutrients I won’t ever switch I’m a lazy fker 
Imho where it gets expensive is the additional nutrients. Big bud, bud candy, ect. That’s why I only use Big Bud, bud candy and overdrive ad additions. So in total I spend about 200$ every 6 months give or take.
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Also I don’t understand them controllers and all so I couldn’t tell you, I use the old pin wheel timers and do everything by hand lol
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Question for you @DanB Do you feed every watering with pH perfect or are there plain waterings between feedings? You don’t have to pH those? 
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With all of them I nute water them for the first month make sure the nutes are in the medium, then after you can every other watering give them nutes.
With the pH perfect solution already in the medium I have plain watered for 3 straight weeks and she was just fine.
Here is the one I am talking about
As you can see their was never a pH problem or anything. I gave nothing but tap water for 3 weeks.
This one yield dry 4 oz.
I’ve even found not going full strength on the feeding is still enough to push decent plants
One very important disclaimer, I don’t flush at the end of my grow the last 2-3 weeks I feed straight through so my medium has a charge to use again. The old roots don’t harm anything they make more aeration in the medium and breakdown over time adding minerals and nutrients to the medium, or at least that’s my understanding of the old roots.
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@DanB I’m re-using my soil too and I don’t flush at the end either. I remove the large root ball and large clumps of root but leave all the fine roots for the same reason.
The reason I ask about the pH is mine out the tap is running 4.7 - 4.9. By the time I adjust it, my ppm is hitting in the 800s with only pH adjustment and a pinch of calmag. I’ve gone to dry amendments, partly because of this, partly because I like the ease of no nute mixing, just water only. Not sure how well pH perfect would do with well water as acidic as mine.
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Look for the grower support phone number, give them a call they will take the time to breakdown any problems you may have and are very respectful and knowledgeable about the way the line works.
I’m going to say I’ve have several different water providers even rain water natural spring water, never was a problem using pH perfect. I’ve done soil, Promix, DWC all with the pH perfect and different kinds of water, the nutrients themselves have an agent that adjusts the pH on its own for the plants individual nutrient uptake for what the plant needs at the time, the only real problems I’ve had using this line was over feeding and giving too much CalMag.
Edit
The large root mass i toss out with the stem, whatever comes off it i shred and make a small layer at the bottom of my pot then fill the pot, seems to be working fine.
And if you have outside plants like aloe vera or whatever the runoff you can add more water to and give to your outside plants never wasting any of the nutrients. And watch how your other plants grow big and strong. I’ve got a 2ft tall aloe vera
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No! Do you have a RH sensor in your tent?
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Unless you are using biological items like worm castings, compost or some other bacterial based organisms in your media, the old roots are likely only contributing structure. You are hydroponically growing your plants. If the plant wants to drink, it has no choice but to take up the nutrients with the water. It doesn’t need to fire out exudates to communicate with biology in order to recover nutrients. In fact, the salts you are adding are antagonistic to a soil biology.
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The controller has a sensor for temp, humidity, and vpd.
The humidifier just kicked out a TON of water last night… it’s off now tho, I let it just run out of water and the humidity should be fine now.. basically it just left a layer of water on the bottom of my tent, which is fine hopefully it doesn’t hurt the in-line fan/filter
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If you are at the seedling stage, its ok to remove a dome as soon as the seedling has the first set of true leaves. I dont transplant into a larger container until the solo cup or whatever small container you start with is full of root. You will know when you see some hairs popping out a drainhole. The plant should pop out like a plug, and not have the media fall off it and leave the seedling bare rooted. As seedlings just keep them gently moist, no need to drown them. Keep the light gentle too, the idea is to foster good root growth in the beginning, worry about plant growth after you transplant. As for humidity, if you arent growing a ton of plants, its kinda not very efficient to run a huge grow light and a humidifier for a small baby. Some do… I dont. I use a T4 and just make a small poly tent over it. Just as you would if you were starting vegitables… its no different. Not rocket science. Cannabis is actually a very agressive plant, a weed! It wants to grow a lot! It looks like you have an AC Infinity controller, is the new ai controller? If so… by all means, when it comes down to up potting, definately use the beginner mode and definately use the VPD setting. Vpd is the combination of temperature to humidity, and not all
plants enjoy the same VPD, for instance, a fern likes high humidy and cool temperatures not unlike lettuce, and cannabis prefers warmer and considerably dryer climate to grow at its optimum potential, towards the end of cannabis life cycle, it is best to keep the humidity lower to prevent mold and bud rot. So VPD is really nice to get a handle on. In the past we had to work really hard to get rid of the heat from the lights, the LED made that less of an issue.
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Thank you @Cannabian for all the knowledge 
I planted the seeds directly into the pots once they got their tails… so it’s just a matter of making sure they get enough, but not too much, water at this point… then I should be good to go for a bit.
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You may have been told this. But when you water water in a ring around the stem. Try not to get the stem wet. It will only take a few ounces of water in the beginning. 
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Yeah I’m kinda thinking with all the water my humidifier kicked out, they’re probably good
It was basically raining in my tent 
Approximately how long does a seed with its tail take to pop out of the soil? Couple days?
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3-5 depending some sprout fast others take their time.
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Thanks sweetie 
I’ll be watching like a hawk until then
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We all do, some of us go digging to make sure the roots getting longer and don’t have helmet head( which is when the plant can’t break the shell and we have to help it very gentle)
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I’ve had them pop I up in a few hours before but that’s rare. It depends on how deep you put it. I usually go a 1/4 inch deep. If it hasn’t broke the surface in 4 or 5 days start worrying.
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The gruntz never made it. Popped a tail, planted it and nothing. 
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