Potassium deficiency maybe?
Sorry so late. How big are those pots? How are u feeding? It looks like either rootbound or N deficiency
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Hey there. At the time of this picture, it was still the 5 gallon pots. Over the weekend we transplanted them into 10 gallon pots. When we pulled them out, the roots were definitely wrapped around and solid, so yeah, possibly root bound. Also, some looked like they were off-white and starting to turn brown, so we gave them a root treatment (Bergman’s Root Protector) and finished the transplant. Gave them a larger percentage of worm castings than before to help a little with possible nitrogen deficiency.
It was suggested part of the problem could be a heat-induced nutrient burn because it’s been so hot and they’ve been getting a lot of water. I was told I should give them a third of their regular nutrients while it’s so hot. So on Sunday they got 1/3 the normal dose of Bergman’s Grow Time fertilizer and 1/3 the normal dose of Calmag. I’ve also been bringing them under shade when it gets too hot. I’m worried that I may have induced flowering this way accidentally though because it looks like one of my girls is starting to flower but I’m pretty sure it’s WAY too early…should I be concerned? And if so, what should I do? Again, I’m in Southern California and my photos all sprouted 4/5-4/6.
Yesterday, I went through and removed all of the yellow/dead leaves and the ones that were mostly yellow. I’ve been having a hard time telling what’s new and what’s just old damage and thus have had trouble seeing any progress or worsening, so I pulled them off to essentially start fresh—fresh pots, fresh soil, fresh growth, etc.
I’m not at home right now, but I’ll take pictures when I get home and post them. Also, here is another post that I’d started (if you’re bored and want to see what else has been said). New growth is red? - #24 by BudzAldrin
(Side note: a couple of my autos started flowering. However, the one that was first to germinate and first to sprout hasn’t yet. I’m pretty sure she had a calcium deficiency though, I wonder if that could delay the flowering?)
Thanks again for your help!
No problem at all my friend! Happy to help.
Firstly GREAT job with the transplant. Im sure those roots will thank u. Smart to add some castings there as well. Vet move 
The shading could have triggered flowering early. To fix it just leave them in solid sun for the right amount of time. If they just thru a few pistils, by next week she should be good.
The autos… autos flower when they damn well choose. Ive seen 10 week GROWS, and ive seen 26+ week autos. Same genetics?
On the 1/3 of nutes… ive never heard of that. Actually the more sun, the more photosynthesis. The more photosynthesis, the more nutes needed. So id actually be bumping them up.
If u wanna fix heat/environmental stresses… more frequent, smaller waterings maybe what u need. Maybe half the water at sun up, half just before sun down?
Lastly. Those yellow leaves wouldnt have gotten better. Get in this habit. When u see yellowing leaves, give em a slight tug. If they come off, better for her anyway. If not, let her suck the rest dry n try again in a couple days. It gets hard to see progression when they get big. So u did correct there
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Ok awesome, it sounds like I’m on the right track! I went to take some pictures but the sun is super bright so you can’t see the colors as vividly, and I realized I didn’t have a whole lot of leaves to take pictures of since I went and did the removal. I think you originally suggested to give them the slight tug so that’s what I’ve been doing. Some pluck right off, others are still holding so for the most part I let them be. There were a few that were yellow, withered and totally dead but refused to come off!
So the heat/environmental stresses—even if they’re in direct light at 90+ degree heat, it’s better not to shade them? A couple weeks ago it was 100+ every day. The other day, one girl was so pitifully wilted so I brought her into the shade and misted her and she perked up a bit. Right now they’re in the sun and there’s some drooping of the lower leaves—ONLY lower leaves though.
Here are some pictures of the left-over leaf problems. I thought these might be nute burn with the burnt tips. But since they haven’t progressed further (some of these I KNOW are old leaves), perhaps I’ve solved that problem—whether it’s nutrients or heat stress? Like I said, the sun is bright so the colors aren’t as clear though.
Finally: here’s a collective picture of my girls. All of them are taller than me (I’m 5’5”)!
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Its those biggest girls giving you the yellowing isnt it… how old are they again?
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Yes it is. They all were sprouted by 4/5-4/6 so they’re about 12 weeks old
I think the yellowing was hunger/rootbound beginning. U fixed that. The tips look like nute burn from fixing the hunger. All in all. Problem averted. How they looking this morning
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Awesome, I hope you’re right! But so far, everything that’s been suggested on this thread has really helped them improve. I’ve got high hopes for my ladies 
let me know if you see anything that needs remedying
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Got some trees there!
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Why thank you, yes I do! And they’ve still got a few months to grow—I wonder how big they’ll be in the end? Now let’s hope they all come to fruition. When I grew before, literally one week before harvest it was cold and rainy for a week. Mold destroyed 90% of the buds. Tragic.
Definitely gonna be more careful this time around. Everyone’s help has been invaluable, seriously. So in Southern California, I should expect them to start flowering around September and they flower for about 1-2 months?
If I were to induce flowering earlier, will/can it affect my harvest or yield? With the earlier grow, the rain happened in October so I’m nervous about letting it go so long since California is starting to get actual seasons again
Ill ask the vet. @Big123 wheen do u start seeing pistils?
And those ladies looking mighty fine indeed
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My plants almost 2 months and I thought I saw one this morning, I will check later, with Auto’s they can start in like four weeks…
@PurpNGold74 thank you!
Thanks for the quick reply. Think OP in sputhern cali. Was more asking what month… but hell early July sounds too soon. On the GSC-X i bet 
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I’m going to take closer look 
in the morning,I glanced at dusk, see something from a distance coming out, they will be popping soon…
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What’s up guys. So I went out of town for a few days and had gone through and gotten rid of all/most of the yellowed/yellowing leaves that easily popped off before I left. I had someone else watering them while I was gone. Today I came back and have noticed all of this. Today is their normal feeding day. They’ve been getting 1/3 of their normal nutrients due to some advice on another forum, so I was gonna give them their full dose along with some foliar spraying of calmag. I was thinking maybe nitrogen deficiency moving a little further along? Like I’d said, I added a larger percentage of worm castings when I did the transplant a week ago, but it may not have been enough.
What does anyone suggest on the feeding today? Should I move forward with the regular nutes and calmag spray as planned? Should I get some cal-nitrate to add to the foliar spray or should I make worm castings tea for spray or what does anyone suggest. And shit yeah, two of my photos are flowering but they’ve been in direct sunlight for a week now. I’m worried it’s way too early. Will they still produce a bunch of usable bud or what are the risks of flowering too early like this?
Finally: can someone recommend a pesticide to use? Bergmans Bug Blaster is not sufficient and I’ve been doing a neem oil spray but someone had told me NOT to use neem oil. The neem oil spray seems to work at least for a few days, but I don’t want to use it if it’s going to adversely affect them. Is there a pesticide that’s top notch? Or one that’s very effective that I can make at home? There’s this one type of bug that KEEPS coming back and I can’t get it to stay away and leave my girls alone!
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It’s these f*ckers that keep coming back and they’re too smart for their own good (they literally move around the stalk and hide when we just look at them).
Any idea what they are and what’s best to get rid of them? I can’t figure it out
Haven’t seen that one b4. I was having trouble with cucumber beetles. They were destroying my plants and none of the organics I tried worked. I put multiple fly strips and yellow sticky cards through out my grow site and eventually got free of them.
@DoobieNoobie is my bug guy. @garrigan62 is also beyond sufficient! No idea what it is. But id bomb that A…
Ok the plant marks… the tips are a nitrogen toxicity (nute burn/paintd nails i like to call them) the crispy edges are all a sign she has too much N.
The faded spots i fear are bug damage. Possibly the one u pickd off. But it looks more like little bug damage. Look under the backs of leaves.
Neem works pretty well. Doob and @GreenJewels had something that looks like it works… but with Neem u spray every few days and never use in flower.
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So you think it’s Nute Burn instead? They only got 1/3 of their nutrients the last two feedings and today is their normal feeding day; so my guess is don’t worry about adding nitrogen, but do you think it’s ok to give them a full dose of their regular food? This is it:
Also, I plan on a foliar calmag feeding. Saw some leaves I’m pretty confident are calcium deficiency. But that will interfere with the neem, wouldn’t it? Should I just add the calmag to their water instead? The neem also needs to go on them soon to avoid these mystery destroyers. And also—I’m so sorry I ask so many questions:
Should I get my water neutrally pH’d and THEN add nutrients? Or do I get it to the pH I want my soil to be at (6.5) and THEN add nutrients? My water naturally comes out as like 8.17 so I’ve gotta do done finagling to get it to the sweet spot.